Reg/Rec

Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
C

cavman

Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2022
Messages
10
Reaction score
2
Location
Ohio
My Bike Models
1986 gl1200i
I recently purchased a new Reg/Rec to put on my 1986 GL12300I. It does not have a black wire coming out of it like the old one did.
Randakks show it as a replacment part. Am I missing something?
 
Here is the schematic for the '86 Interstate/Aspencade charging system including the R/R. Without seeing the new R/R, it will be difficult for us to know if will work. As far as Randakks showing it as a replacement part, that may be true, but you still need the wiring schematic to know how to wire in the new part per the new R/R wiring color code.

Page 156.jpg
 
black wire is to monitor battery voltage. nott necessary. chances are.....you will not overcharge because the oem charging system sucked. if you are charging while going down the road, thats as good as oem.
 
The new Randakks RR is probably a 5 wire RR. There are three stator wires and a positive/negative wire. The RR senses electrical system voltage through the positive wire, no need for a sense wire. Connect the positive and negative to the battery, the stator wires are self-explanatory. Make sure you isolate the black sense wire so that it cannot touch and go to ground, it is live whenever the ignition key is turned on. The same with the old RR connector. There are live 12 VDC wires there as well, these being the red ones.
 
Ok, I have wired up the new reg/rec. Since I don't have a black wire to hook to the black/green wire that goes to the fuse box, do I need to hook in a power wire?
 
i think you are complicating this. just plug in the R/R to the stator plug and see if you charging the battery. its pretty much that simple.
 
claydbal said:
i think you are complicating this. just plug in the R/R to the stator plug and see if you charging the battery. its pretty much that simple.
Click to expand...
On these forums, we do not believe any question is a dumb question. Would rather have folks come here, ask questions and learn than be berated, embarrassed or just afraid to ask a question because of the type of response you posted. It might be simple work to folks that have been around bikes or these specific bikes for years. But, give the poster the benefit of the doubt about what experience they may have. Better to ask and learn than try it on your own wits and end up on the side of the road (or worse).
 
Nothing simple about an upgrade to these older GWs. Connectors have changed, you need to learn how to remove wires from OEM connectors and reuse or renew. I have done a few of these and it is always an afternoon or so to do the swap properly. Electrical wiring changes, upgrades, renewal always take more time than you expect.

Need the OP to confirm the new RR was a 5 wire RR. If so, how were the stator wires, and the power/ground to battery connected. Was the OP able to fit the new RR in the same place as the OEM RR?

Make sure the red, red/white and the black sense wire in the original OEM connectors are capped and not able to go to ground. The red and red/white wires in the OEM connector will be live all the time. The black sense wire is live anytime the ignition switch is in the ON position. Confirm that the original stator wires from the stator connector beside the battery are disconnected and not being use.

What I mention is predicated on the OP not using the OEM connectors to connect the new RR into the electrical system.

Picture(s) would be nice and give a better indication of what was done.
 
mcgovern61 said:
On these forums, we do not believe any question is a dumb question. Would rather have folks come here, ask questions and learn than be berated, embarrassed or just afraid to ask a question because of the type of response you posted. It might be simple work to folks that have been around bikes or these specific bikes for years. But, give the poster the benefit of the doubt about what experience they may have. Better to ask and learn than try it on your own wits and end up on the side of the road (or worse).
Click to expand...
never said dumb and did not berate. did try and bring it back to simple. simple helps the new-to-mechanic gain confidence to learn how to repair correctly. the correct part is a simple plug and play. if the incorrect, or a make-do part is ordered, then that would be a job for one with more experience. we wouldnt want anyone to burst into flames at 70 mph.
peace
 

Latest posts

Top