Replacing fuse box on 1100

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wilcoy02

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I have been planning on replacing the fuse box with a blade type box for about a year now.
I have a box from a 1500.

Since I know nothing about electricity this will be a challenge for me.A good friend of mine is an electrician. After one of my projects he told my wife that I am not to touch wiring ever again.

I am not going to rush this as it is winter and the bike won't start sooo I am going to get this project done before spring.

Can you give me an estimate on how long this could take? 2 hours... 2 days... 2 weeks...

I will ask for help when I get there.
 
It took me almost 4 years! :shock:

Of course I got side tracked with health issues and taking care of my Mother In Law. Plus, I did a complete rewire of my harness.

viewtopic.php?p=177401#p177401

If you just replacing the glass fuse panel with an automotive fuse style panel, it could be done in 2 days with someone that knows their wiring. Post a pic of the one you got from the 1500. Be sure it will fit in place of the old one.
 
Don't feel bad,I'm going tackle this same thing on my 1100 in the near future

Sent from my LG-US601 using Tapatalk
 
I did not do anywhere near the job that Gerry did but i did swap out the fuse box for a blade type, it's not as hard as it looks, there's only actually 9 wires involved in it.

On the front (input), the left wire jumps over to the next 3 fuses, 4 in all. So on the back (output) the left 4 wires don't matter where they land because they all get powered essentially from the same wire , (just don't get them mixed up with the other 2) and put in the right size fuse for whatever they are powering up.

The hardest part is deciding what to connect it all with, I used good quality crimps and lots of heat shrink sleeving.
 
If you are going to use blade-type fuses, I'd suggest doing the hack on the main system fuse as well, and replace it with the same type of blade-type fuse.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215800#p215800:oh6ef0ei said:
saganaga » Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:36 pm[/url]":eek:h6ef0ei]
If you are going to use blade-type fuses, I'd suggest doing the hack on the main system fuse as well, and replace it with the same type of blade-type fuse.

If you mean the dog bone I have already replaced it with a blade. If not then please enlighten me.

I am replacing the glass fuses with a 1500 blade fuse box.

Sounds like this is doable in a day, 2 at most.
 
I have found that wiring takes longer than one would expect. Estimate at least a week for your project, may find additional wiring issues you will want to address as well.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215801#p215801:8j1ylosv said:
wilcoy02 » Yesterday, 10:17 pm[/url]":8j1ylosv]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215800#p215800:8j1ylosv said:
saganaga » Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:36 pm[/url]":8j1ylosv]
If you are going to use blade-type fuses, I'd suggest doing the hack on the main system fuse as well, and replace it with the same type of blade-type fuse.

If you mean the dog bone I have already replaced it with a blade. If not then please enlighten me.

You are already ahead of me then!

Some more advice: You can buy the OEM-style electrical connectors on Amazon and other sites. It is a standard. I don't know how deep you are going to go on this rewire, so you may not need then.

I always like to have a battery tender hookup by the front (false) tank/handlebars. If I had the opportunity, I'd put one there while the false tank is off. I prefer to hook up the tender right after the ride, and when it is by the handlebars, there's less of a chance of a cord falling across the hot engine and exhaust.

Oh, and I always like to have dielectric grease on hand whenever I'm detatching/reattaching electrical connectors.
 
I've been digging out the parts I have been collecting and wiring diagrams.
I have a 1200 fuse box and not a 1500.
It is supposed to warm up to the 50's Sat and Sun so that is when I plan to start this project. Hopefully get it done on Sunday.
 
Wes, here is a schematic for wiring in a 1200 fuse panel to an 1100's wiring:

image.php
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215801#p215801:2qu8v3fg said:
wilcoy02 » Wed Feb 19, 2020 2:17 pm[/url]":2qu8v3fg]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=215800#p215800:2qu8v3fg said:
saganaga » Tue Feb 18, 2020 10:36 pm[/url]":2qu8v3fg]
If you are going to use blade-type fuses, I'd suggest doing the hack on the main system fuse as well, and replace it with the same type of blade-type fuse.

If you mean the dog bone I have already replaced it with a blade. If not then please enlighten me.

I am replacing the glass fuses with a 1500 blade fuse box.

Sounds like this is doable in a day, 2 at most.
I used this style fusible link with a little bit of modifying.
 
For what it's worth here's mine, done.

Did it about 5 years ago now, and it has about 12,000 miles since then, mostly 2 & 3,000 mile binge rides and it ain't let me down yet.

I've not had to roll fuses around to get lights to come on either.

I got the fuse box off of eBay for about $10.
 

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mcgovern61":ncgspg3b said:
Wes, here is a schematic for wiring in a 1200 fuse panel to an 1100's wiring:

image.php
Does the 1200 use blade style fuses?

Sent from my LG-US601 using Tapatalk
 
Mcgovern --I have the info you sent me when I thought about doing this. Thank You for all of it. Especially this pic you just sent.

Yes the 1200 does have blade fuses. part # 23480
 
Well it took me a week to get it done. 2 days to cut the first wire.
Wires are all soldered , insulated, and taped. 1200 fuse box in the 1100.
What is exciting to me is the engine starts and runs.
 

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