Resurrection on the Fan switch thread

[TheRepoGuy]

Forget about the rear brake master - bled the system the right way and it’s fine now ha!

Looking at adding a switch to the fan so I can turn it on or off at my leisure. I unhooked the connector at the front of the frame going to the fan, added two wires to the plug directly to the fan and hooked them up to a spare battery I’ve got. The fan sings like a mfker but only when both wires are connected to the battery; doesn’t matter what wire goes to what terminal on the battery either which is odd to me but whatever works!

Since I’m far from an electrical guru here - I wanted to drop a question and see if someone can lend me a bit of advice.

If I wire in an extra switch I’d gather I need a 3 pole - one hot one ground and one to the fan. Does that sound right or is there a better way to do it rather than getting to the thermostatic switch and having to remove the damn carbs to do it [emoji849]
Nate


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[joedrum]

Hmmm the fan will run either way wires are hooked up motor spins different..either pushes air or pulls it ..one fan wire wire is negative and positive can’t remember the color right now lol...but the thermo switch connects the ground together ...if at the fan plug you run another wire on the negative wire to a switch and then to ground ..both systems work ..thermo switch and manual switch is how I got mine ..

 

[GTC@MSAC]

If you are using a factory replacement fan, I believe that one fan motor wire is blue and the other black. The black wire goes to the thermo-switch contolling the negative leg. The Colored wire goes to the positive supply that comes on with the ignition switch. I don't know of any reason to pull your thermo-switch out unless you have determined it is actually bad. Be sure to fix that melted wire at the connection in your previous photo. You can install an extra manual grounding switch on your fairing on the side with the thermo-switch, if you don't trust your original thermo-switch. Be sure the fan is pulling air through the radiator from front to rear, and not trying to push air out the front!

After all the repairs are done, you can test the current draw on that circuit by installing an ammeter in place of that circuit fuse that was the wrong size, and read how much current the whole circuit is drawing. Or you can just put in the correct size fuse, and see if it lasts without popping.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

I’ve got it hooked up direct to a 40amp two pole switch at the moment and don’t have any issues. The issue now is the effing crack on the right side head!


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[Ansimp]

I like your idea for a later model more efficient replacement fan rather than a second hand oem one.

 

[dan filipi]

If you go aftermarket, and mount it to front of the radiator, be careful the front fender clearance. I mounted one and under hard front brake stops with front wheel dive, the fan would jamb against the front fender. It would actually prevent turning of the bars right or left.

 

[Ansimp]

I wouldn’t recommend pushing ( mounted to the front) as you seem to get better airflow in my opinion without the bulk of the fan and shroud in the way of the natural airflow. That being said I have added a few helper fans to AC installs on the front of the condenser but my preference is to reduce restrictions to the natural airflow when possible.

 

[GTC@MSAC]

Nate, however you choose to repair or run the new fan, I am just glad that you were able to find the problem and not toast your harness completely! Sorry to see the head crack, but you seem to be accepting and fixing things as they come. I promise you will eventually get to enjoy this bike, lol!

 

[saganaga]

TheRepoGuy » August 30th, 2019, 12:46 pm[/url]":129rdinl]
Since I’m far from an electrical guru here - I wanted to drop a question and see if someone can lend me a bit of advice.

If I wire in an extra switch I’d gather I need a 3 pole - one hot one ground and one to the fan. Does that sound right or is there a better way to do it rather than getting to the thermostatic switch and having to remove the damn carbs to do it [emoji849]
Nate

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How I'd do it would be to a single pole, single throw switch.

Fan motor have a blue wire and a black wire. The blue wire supplies power when the ignition is on. The black wire goes to the thermoswitch. When the thermoswitch is hot, it connect to the ground.

Tap into the black wire with a new wire, but keep the old wire connected.

With the new wire, run it into a switch, and run the other side of the switch to a good ground.

When the switch is on, the fan runs. When the switch is off, the fan will still kick on if the thermoswitch activates at high temps.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Here's a schematic:

 

[Ansimp]

Rednaxs60 » Sun Sep 01, 2019 10:38 pm[/url]":m8zfj6pw]
Here's a schematic:

Nice schematic. If you want to change your fan feed the I recommend this circuit but use a relay to supply the power to the fan and use this circuit to control the relay. This would take away all the fan current from the switches, ignition circuit and fuse box.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Not my brain child. I scoured the internet and forums, found this and kept copy. Works a treat though. Cheers

 

[brianinpa]

Rednaxs60 » Tue Sep 03, 2019 8:47 pm[/url]":18uesgqn]
Not my brain child. I scoured the internet and forums, found this and kept copy. Works a treat though. Cheers

I have used it on all of mine as well. I loved having that switch/light while sitting in traffic on my trip to Nova Scotia! I am not going to burn up another motor if at all possible! :mrgreen: