SEI 1200 Running Issues ….. still☹️

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Curlytops

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Hi… im still having issues trying to get this sei to run right… it starts on the button, when cold revs at around 1800rpm and once warm settles at around 950rpm. once warm it revs ok but seems to bog down up to below 3000rpm. I rode it up the street and it sound like its missing at low revs and coughs back into the airbox… but picks up fine over 3000rpm but does sound to have a slight miss. There are no lights on the ecu, ive fitted new vacuum lines and spliced in some different pb sensors but no difference. Im thinking it may be another sensor or the ignition side… any sei owners got any ideas…
 

Curlytops

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BTDT? It looks to have had a TPS added at sometime with bad soldering… i remade the joints but I haven’t checked its calibration ill look into it 👍
 

Rednaxs60

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Been there done that - BTDT. The issue with a TPS is that we generally ride in the same RPM range most of the time and the TPS gets worn in the same spot. It is an important part of the CFI system and has the least QA/QC done. Check the calibration. One aspect of the check is you have to bring the throttle lever to the stop screw. Do not move or change the stop screw position. Pic: Throttle Stop screw.jpg
Picture of the TPS on your bike would be good.
 

Curlytops

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Hi Rednax.. Had a bit more time with the wing today, wing started as normal, and settled back to its 950rpm as usual , still sounded a bit rough when low revved. I wired up the suzuki PB sensors I had and gave them a go, the tickover was then 3000rpm and i couldnt get it lower so not sure what happened there. As soon as i plugged the bikes pb sensors back in it was back to 950 rpm.
Hopefully my pictures below show you what you need to see, looking at the wires I suspect it has had another sei TPS sensor fitted as the wires are the same colours, that's the only reason I can think of for the joints I made good...otherwise why would the wires be cut and badly soldered? Have you any ideas where abouts on the bike the tps wires appear again after they disappear into the upper innards of the bike so i can test at that point?
 

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Curlytops

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OK .. I have tested my TPS voltage, and with the throttle at rest its 0.47V. As I open the throttle it rises to a max of 3.45V. Is this within spec does anyone know? If not and i have to swap out the TPS how do I get it off, as it looks to have no bolt or screw heads on it...?
 

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Rednaxs60

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The bolts are break off bolts. You can use a dremmel to slot these bolts and use a common screwdriver to remove:
Break Off Bolts slotted with Dremel.jpg
Use hex head bolts as replacement.
This is the TPS connector under the shelter:
TPS Connector.jpg
TPS Sensor connection under false tank.jpg
Still should check the TPS calibration as detailed in the Supplement. From your pics should be able to splice a wire on each three wires and route these to under the shelter by the air filter. You will then be able to connect a multimeter to the appropriate wires to check the TPS calibration.
 

Curlytops

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Thanks i have located the plug now and spliced in some wires, i rechecked the TPS and i got the same readings., 0.47v with throttle closed going smoothly up to 4.1V throttle wide open. I then rechecked with an old needle multi meter, and got the same readings, and the needle moves slow and steady as i open the throttle, so im guessing my TPS appears fine. Im thinking this TPS is the original one as it still has the break head bolts on so cant understand why the wires were cut and badly soldered.

This low rev bog down and missing is the only thing i need to sort on this bike and its getting frustrating 😂… i tried the suzuki PB sensors again, but if i use them both i cant get tick over below 2000rpm… so the fault isnt then apparent… if i use 1 then i can get it down to 1050rpm but no lower… plug the old sensors in and everything goes back to normal but with the missfire… im missing something with this old girl … im better with carbs😂👍
 

Rednaxs60

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IMG_7422 in your other post is not quite right. The throttle stop screw should not be up against the throttle linkage. It is not adjusted properly. I would move it so there is a space between the throttle linkage and the throttle stop screw. I'm trying to find out what the stop screw should be set at. This is where mine is set at right now. Notice the space between the throttle linkage and the stop screw. This setting is fairly close to what is needed:
Throttle Stop screw.jpg
When you change this, set the idle. Shouldn't affect the TPS calibration.
 

desertrefugee

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Maybe a dumb question, but have you verified that the injectors themselves are flowing properly? Balanced flow rates with a proper spray pattern? Or perhaps it might be time to begin scrutinizing ignition components?
 

Curlytops

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Maybe a dumb question, but have you verified that the injectors themselves are flowing properly? Balanced flow rates with a proper spray pattern? Or perhaps it might be time to begin scrutinizing ignition components?

No its not a dumb question at all.. I have had the injectors out and they are functioning correctly and do have a good spray pattern. Im only going through fuel system at the moment as the previous owner said this was where the fault was, but once ive got my head around the fuel system then I will be going through the ignition side again. I have checked plugs n sparks etc and all appears well.. the plugs are a good colour and are not oily or fouling. The previous owner had narrowed the fault through his fault finding to the pb sensors, and the symptoms do seem to point that way, but i want to make sure ive sorted all the fuel side out before moving on.
 

Curlytops

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IMG_7422 in your other post is not quite right. The throttle stop screw should not be up against the throttle linkage. It is not adjusted properly. I would move it so there is a space between the throttle linkage and the throttle stop screw. I'm trying to find out what the stop screw should be set at. This is where mine is set at right now. Notice the space between the throttle linkage and the stop screw. This setting is fairly close to what is needed:
View attachment 47583
When you change this, set the idle. Shouldn't affect the TPS calibration.

Hi.. I was slightly confused when reading the supplement and looking at your pic. It says to check the TPS to loosen the idle speed screw and then put a 2.9mm gauge between that and the arm. So should the throttle stop be as mine is and i insert the gauge to lift it away from the arm, or should the arm always have a 2.9mm gap between it and the stop? If so what is the point of the stop if it never touches it? Your pic looks to have a bigger gap than 2.9mm unless its just the way the pic is taken, but I shall mark mine up and move it to see if it makes a difference.... sorry to be a pain, your the one with all the experience, im just trying to understand it all.
 

Rednaxs60

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Hi.. I was slightly confused when reading the supplement and looking at your pic. It says to check the TPS to loosen the idle speed screw and then put a 2.9mm gauge between that and the arm. So should the throttle stop be as mine is and i insert the gauge to lift it away from the arm, or should the arm always have a 2.9mm gap between it and the stop? If so what is the point of the stop if it never touches it? Your pic looks to have a bigger gap than 2.9mm unless its just the way the pic is taken, but I shall mark mine up and move it to see if it makes a difference.... sorry to be a pain, your the one with all the experience, im just trying to understand it all.
The idle speed screw is the one that you adjust the idle with - at the rear of the air chamber in the middle, not the one in the picture.

On page 10-25 of the supplement in the notes for calibrating the TPS it mentions not to loosen off the stop screw locknut. You bring the throttle linkage to the stop screw and when the gap between the throttle linkage and the stop screw is 2.9 mm you check the TPS calibration. When you have the stop screw up against the throttle linkage as you have, you can get an over-fueling situation, fuel smell when engine is operating. The stop screw is set at the factory, and should not be adjusted.

Your TPS looks to be original. What I would do is check the TPS calibration by backing off on the stop screw, insert a 2.9 mm feeler gauge without moving the throttle linkage. Check the calibration, and if not in spec - 0.475 to 0.495 VDC, unscrew the stop screw a few more turns, bring the throttle linkage to the stop screw until you can insert the 2.9 mm feeler gauge between the two, recheck the calibration. Do this until you get the TPS calibration correct. Set the stop screw and do not move it again.

These are fun machines.
 

Curlytops

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HI... Thanks for the info, Im going to do that today and will post here how I get on ..thanks for the help I really appreciate it and am slowly getting my head around this CFI stuff.
 

Curlytops

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Okay… i backed everything off so i could get the feeler gauges in as the throttle stop was holding the linkage. Checked TPS voltage and was .47v. Started bike and it was still running rough at low revs under load but ticking over fine…. I went back to original diagnosis which was PB sensor. I changed the one which I thought was faulty for a suzuki sensor and the revs went to 3k… but this time because i had sorted the other side of the throttle linkage i was able to lower the tickover to 950rpm. I road it up the street and its silky smooth. All appears well… ill try it again tomorrow from cold and if all is well and still the same ill do a final fix… thankyou for your assistance with this … you have saved my sanity 😂👍
 

Curlytops

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Well I did all my final testing and the SEI rides great... Thankyou for your help with sorting it out, Im thinking now because of the complex nature of this beast Im going to move it it on and look for a GL1000 or 1100 to work on during the winter months.... Id forgotten just how heavy these are compared to my 1800:)
 

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