Single Carb Manifold with EMPI Carb

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I,must be lucky.mine worked.fine.except the paint.on the manifold came apart.so I chromed-it.put it back on.the cheap gasket was sh%%t.so I bought racing gasket material.from napa..then put it on..fine.instant throttle.gas mileage went down..i,ll have to tune it in.later.currently.its done with starter clutch issues..yes,i got one of those new solex pic carbs.and the manifold from a Mexican dude in California..i called him after the white heat paint failed,and the carb gasket.this is for a 85 1200 set-up.tom
 

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He sent a jet with your kit right? What size was the jet? I mean I see one in his ebay pics.

My seller just sends me little one line replies that are not very helpful.
 
ANd I knew I should have gotten the one you got. He seems like a good guy, and to see him do revisions is encouraging. Just seems like he puts more QC and care into his product.
 
heres a couple,more,fresh.. :cool: :cool:.i got this project,traded to me.i traded,a 79 sportster chopper.for this 85-wing.it had the stock carbs.on..i put the,single carb-on.and love-it..i,m in the 5 or 6 grand .when I shift.so gas mileage,don,t really matter..to me..i was getting 95 to 100 miles per tank.not that bad..tom
 

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Heard from the seller, set the screws properly according to his input, rechecked for leaks, remounted the carb, grounded the carb, bilt a new gasket for the plenum, and stripped an a** load of bad instant connectors and useless crap from the bike, stupid motion alarm (yea if I catch people on my property unauthorixed as a lock muy gate, you might eat rock salt at a minimum so I have no need for that. I have no need for trailer wiring, sorry traliers have no business on a bike IMHO, its personal preference, dont want to talk about it. Reset the carbs, reseated the filter, checked for vacuum leaks, and am tracing down some bad grounds as I am losing battery power when it sits. No fire yet, Iwill test it in the morning.
 
I apreciate all the feedback and help, hopefully I make some headway today, I have it on the charger and will know soon. Thanks all of you.
 
Progress is encouraging, the choke actually works correctly, and it is idling very smoothly at 1200 rpm. I think I can get it to purr a little better after I replace the coils. I want an upgrade. I just don't understand why you would not put new coils on to match the Dyna Ignition, they work great as a matched set (or have on my other rides), so I will be looking into advice on that. The stock ones passed testing but on the lower end of the scale but I want more juice in the spark. I am a little dark on WOT testing so far (plug color) but they are not soaked anymore. Had to drop and swap the oil, I hydrolocked as when I was mad at the bike and did not want to see it, I left the fuel valve on, and it was leaning on the side stand. I just drop the oil and change it to prevent issues with fuel in the gas, it never hurts, and I can always use the waste oil in the furnace this winter. I typically center stand all my bikes if they have them, less likelihood of a drop on the jiffy stand, and it makes more room in my tiny shed. Anyway, I have more testing, but its coming around. I will be researching stock jet sizes and backing down one size, and order one two sizes down just in case, but it is very very close. I also think the free flowing exhaust will help too, so I may mount that first and see where I am at. The major change was to set the choke according VW process (the screw on the end of the throttle arm) and set the smaller of the two screws to 1.5 turns out instead of 2.5. The VCM screw controls the volume to all circuits not just the idle according to my cage mech friend. I am still looking into changing the carbs at a minimum after I recover and get more business in my shop, but I think I can get this at least to a ridable state for the time being without having to go to that new anchor I have for the boat (the bank of Keihins). SO making progress, thanks for the encouragement.
 
if you hydrolocked with a VW carb, you have a problem!!! float level is off or you have a needle and seat problem. Just saying.. you don't shut the fuel off in your old VW and they don't have that issue, the fuel tank in the bug is about the same in relation to the carb on your wing. just my humble opinion
 
hmm till you get it lean enough in the idle circuit it will dump raw gas in oil ... as it dont atomize and enters cylinder as raw gas and dont burn and leaks by rings ..is probably whats going on
 
yep, I found the issue on the fuel valve, and will lower the floats. The builder thinks he might have thrown an untouched carb in my box, and is giving me some chingy back, he has the float level for me and is sending the correct jet, at least he is repsonding now so I feel sooooo much better now about that, that is what tee'd me off.

And I agree to Joe, with a 40% drop in mixture I think I would have been leaner dumper gas right in the plenum from a can....lol...I figured on what you said, and I do post hydrolock oil drops by habit. Ten years ago, I burned down my XS650 after a hydrolock and I did not inspect the oil, so I do it by rule now...

Running so much better in the shop, but proof is in the pudding and where the rubber meets the road. Damn rain, like we dont have enough already
 
Was lean today, dialing into a richer setting, freed up the pipes, I am waiting for the cocktail mixers. Yep, going black headesr with Cocktail shaker ends with a slight upturn, I liked the sound on a rat cx I built, they oughta be a hoot on an oldwing.

Yea, the carb is working just fine, I have it steady idling at 1050 to 1100 rpm, the choke works, I removed a scad of stuff from the bike, I have 125 pounds off the chassis now. Adjusted the suspension. Changing fork oil tomorrow as the sealmate strips worked on my fork seals. I will also finish removing some other chrome tidbits. I will ride it again in the morning. I have left the top box mafia, I am keeping the fairing as it is required for comfy riding on the super slab. I actually think the lean tuning caused the slight lurch on the accel pump. I think I have it now. Starts first crank, if its 50 degrees it runs at 3000 rpm and actually slows itself down, scary..I know....

Oh its fast by the way, I know it will do the ton. or so I have heard...I would never do that...Its dialing in nicely now that I am in the right ball prk. Thanks for the help.1.75 turns out on the VCM screw, and tuned the throttle screw down from 2000 rpm to 1000 to 1100 rpm. I did find a small vacuum leak, and now she purrs like a kitten at idle, I am actually impressed. Sorry it idles better and its faster than stock. I am sure of that, I would not recommend the EMPIU one but if you can get the solex, its a viable single carb one barrrel. I need that one inch riser to put the adjustment screws right between the frame bars under the shell. I have an offset screwdriver I am using but that is one thing the builder needs to fix.
 
Okay, here are the final tuning numbers. The carb that I received was jetted with a 127.5 jet for the main jet. Guess what guys, if you have rejetted a mikuni, you likely have a pile of jets you just cant throw away,, they may come in handy! Well...once again krakum's ever growing box-o-bolts-n-useless stuff saves the day again. Man I love that box. I found a pair of old mik mains that I salvaged off a Hyosung gv650 for spare parts for the wifes ride, Boom, there was a 122.5 jet along with a 125, I went with the 122.5. BOOM, now if finally sounds "in unison" like a goldwing should, fresh one tone romp from 1350 rpm to redline and well through it) like nobodies business. Yea, smells right now too, I also adjusted the choke, it was set WAYYYYY too tight, adjusted as per a recommendation in vw-reources, set a new main jet size of 122.5 (VW, Solex, Or Mikuni 100.206 nmain jets, they interchange, Set the air/idle exactly to 1.625 turns as per calculation, found that the pilot jet had loosened itself and was leaking fuel out and air in, it almost fell out when I touched it. Yea, found that mystery vacuum leak,,,yea....tightened it up, and checked the top bolts as I had the top off changing jets and modifying the float level (yes I can side stand it now...ooooo)

Well, also made another gasket from firmer rubberized gasket for the base gasket. I reset the cables, and tightened them to remove slack, and started it, boom 1650 rpm purring like a VW over-toned GL1000 with tuned carbs. Hit the gas, slight lag, but zoom. I enriched the accelerator pump, and set the idle screw (big one) too 2.25 turns for good luck, better rich than lean is what I always say. Boom, 1200 rpm, steady, no more surges, no more dropped idles, purrs, picks up[ evenly to match the grip, and no lags or spaces in acceleration. Its on gents, it is fast, cruises smoothly, idles perfectly at 1200 rpm, and takes off like a rocket now...yea...I love my new boat anchor, today it held me in a 15 mph breeze going for the big musky in the froth, no luck, but that keihin anchor was the shiznet!!!!!!!!!

Now I see what the big hoopla is on the GL's torque and power, its "in unison" now if that makes sense.
 
Ummm...not plug and play by the way guys, I will do it again, have my eye on a rescue for 500 dollars at a car dealer, hmm, needs carb work, might try the telly kit, or even this one again,but this time order the pure german solex and see what the difference is. Its an 1100 so I might go with the twin like joe, but my source sells a throttle linkage for dual carbs on a vw....hmmmmm....that and a pair of the randakk thingies,,,,,will have to wait for winter....right now I need to change some oil and tires and get some cash ion the shop
 

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