Single Carb Manifold with EMPI Carb

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=122936#p122936:nt3e12vs said:
83gl1200 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:28 pm[/url]":nt3e12vs]
Im glad you mentioned the backfire issue and explained what happened with the carb shooting off and leaving a loose fuel line burning the bike down, it made me think. The best solution short of replacing the intake seems to be to plan for the worst and add some steel holding the carb in place to the frame at the top of the carb, so that even if it did blow the intake to bits, the carb couldn't go anywhere and would stay attached to the frame and fuel line. Am I missing anything with that plan?

Oh, and maybe a spare set of underwear under the seat too, just in case. :)

I was already debating putting support at the top of the carb to act as my ground and keep it more steady anyway. No problem.

I seem to have an issue with this carb though, might need a new one. No matter what it wants to leak at an angle, even with a low fuel level in the bowl. It's coming out the arm in the top of the carb that's aluminum and part of the carb body, not the accelerator pump removable arm. If anyone has an idea why it would do that let me know. I already cleaned and rebuilt it with a kit from Napa, and it looks spotless and works other than the leak off level.
Can you take a picture of the carb and point out where you have the leak? :thanks:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=124383#p124383:3g1uxeho said:
slabghost » Sun Jul 06, 2014 1:08 pm[/url]":3g1uxeho]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=122936#p122936:3g1uxeho said:
83gl1200 » Thu Jun 26, 2014 9:28 pm[/url]":3g1uxeho]
Im glad you mentioned the backfire issue and explained what happened with the carb shooting off and leaving a loose fuel line burning the bike down, it made me think. The best solution short of replacing the intake seems to be to plan for the worst and add some steel holding the carb in place to the frame at the top of the carb, so that even if it did blow the intake to bits, the carb couldn't go anywhere and would stay attached to the frame and fuel line. Am I missing anything with that plan?

Oh, and maybe a spare set of underwear under the seat too, just in case. :)

I was already debating putting support at the top of the carb to act as my ground and keep it more steady anyway. No problem.

I seem to have an issue with this carb though, might need a new one. No matter what it wants to leak at an angle, even with a low fuel level in the bowl. It's coming out the arm in the top of the carb that's aluminum and part of the carb body, not the accelerator pump removable arm. If anyone has an idea why it would do that let me know. I already cleaned and rebuilt it with a kit from Napa, and it looks spotless and works other than the leak off level.
Can you take a picture of the carb and point out where you have the leak? :thanks:

The carb is mounted on the bike ATM so you cant see it, but It drips from what i think is called the emulsion tube. The aluminum arm which sticks out into the throat of the carb. This pic isn't my carb, just downloaded for reference.
 

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I believe that is the venturi pipe. If that is leaking then your needle valve might not be seating.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=124391#p124391:32vsksmp said:
slabghost » Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:09 pm[/url]":32vsksmp]
I believe that is the venturi pipe. If that is leaking then your needle valve might not be seating.
Yes I suspected the float or inlet valve. I've tried different washers to lower fuel level but I think the float may have a slight wear spot, hard to tell. I can't feel a depression in the float but I think maybe I see a slight bit of wear there. I'm going to have to try a new one and a new valve while I'm at it. This is a new valve in here but I noticed the other day it sticks closed occasionally, and the rebuild kit the new valve came in seemed cheap like made in China even though its from Napa. Do you know of a source for quality float and inlet valve at a reasonable cost? I'm hoping not to buy another rebuild kit just for a fuel inlet valve. The Napa kit didn't include a new float either.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=124395#p124395:1tyz7ghv said:
krakum1967 » Sun Jul 06, 2014 2:44 pm[/url]":1tyz7ghv]
Looking fopr the source I used for info on that carb, but wouldn't jbugs have something?
Everyone has parts, but I don't know who has good parts. Too much junk from China...
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=120719#p120719:3ax5l5hf said:
krakum1967 » Tue Jun 10, 2014 1:53 am[/url]":3ax5l5hf]
Was lean today, dialing into a richer setting, freed up the pipes, I am waiting for the cocktail mixers. Yep, going black headesr with Cocktail shaker ends with a slight upturn, I liked the sound on a rat cx I built, they oughta be a hoot on an oldwing.

Yea, the carb is working just fine, I have it steady idling at 1050 to 1100 rpm, the choke works, I removed a scad of stuff from the bike, I have 125 pounds off the chassis now. Adjusted the suspension. Changing fork oil tomorrow as the sealmate strips worked on my fork seals. I will also finish removing some other chrome tidbits. I will ride it again in the morning. I have left the top box mafia, I am keeping the fairing as it is required for comfy riding on the super slab. I actually think the lean tuning caused the slight lurch on the accel pump. I think I have it now. Starts first crank, if its 50 degrees it runs at 3000 rpm and actually slows itself down, scary..I know....

Oh its fast by the way, I know it will do the ton. or so I have heard...I would never do that...Its dialing in nicely now that I am in the right ball prk. Thanks for the help.1.75 turns out on the VCM screw, and tuned the throttle screw down from 2000 rpm to 1000 to 1100 rpm. I did find a small vacuum leak, and now she purrs like a kitten at idle, I am actually impressed. Sorry it idles better and its faster than stock. I am sure of that, I would not recommend the EMPIU one but if you can get the solex, its a viable single carb one barrrel. I need that one inch riser to put the adjustment screws right between the frame bars under the shell. I have an offset screwdriver I am using but that is one thing the builder needs to fix.


What are seal mate strips. I was reading along on your post. Never heard of them
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=133212#p133212:29lkwwuk said:
krakum1967 » Thu Oct 09, 2014 12:14 am[/url]":29lkwwuk]
They are for fixing fork seals.

Check them out.


https://sealmate.net/

Someone else suggested making one out of a pep Coke bottle which I did and it worked well :good:
 
I used the .004 mm feeler gauge too, its getting something thin between the seal and the fork to remove the stuck debris is the concept, and I bet a pepsi bottle would be perfect. right thickness on the plastic.
 

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