Starter maybe?

[TheRepoGuy]

Let’s see what y’all think of this -

When I just tried to start the bike it’s still just clicking. I had My other half hit the start button and I’ve got over 12v almost 13 at the starter but it won’t spin. So I pulled the starter off to check it. Went over the spots where the starter makes contact with the case to have a ground and added two 10g wires to the starter where it bolts to the motor and sent those wires to the ground on the frame and one on the battery too.

When I pulled the starter off and hit it with a car battery it’ll spin over no problem. Put it back in the bike and it’ll spin over for a couple seconds but that’s it before it’s sucking more juice out of the battery and I’m back to just the clicking.

This is the same starter I had my other half’s Ex rebuild in his shop, he benched it and it worked fine there with a car battery too however with the circumstances I’ve got - I’m pretty confident it’s messed up but wanted a second opinion. A friend down here in GA has a starter he said was toast but I have another rebuild kit so I can always rebuild another one. Is it worth doing that or just buying a new one and going from there? I’m thinking because it’s acting like this it’s not spinning the motor over well enough to get a good spark and fire (maybe?)
Nate


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[GTC@MSAC]

TheRepoGuy » 06 Jul 2019, 12:22[/url]":3e3vtbgt]
Let’s see what y’all think of this -

When I just tried to start the bike it’s still just clicking. I had My other half hit the start button and I’ve got over 12v almost 13 at the starter but it won’t spin. So I pulled the starter off to check it. Went over the spots where the starter makes contact with the case to have a ground and added two 10g wires to the starter where it bolts to the motor and sent those wires to the ground on the frame and one on the battery too.

When I pulled the starter off and hit it with a car battery it’ll spin over no problem. Put it back in the bike and it’ll spin over for a couple seconds but that’s it before it’s sucking more juice out of the battery and I’m back to just the clicking.

This is the same starter I had my other half’s Ex rebuild in his shop, he benched it and it worked fine there with a car battery too however with the circumstances I’ve got - I’m pretty confident it’s messed up but wanted a second opinion. A friend down here in GA has a starter he said was toast but I have another rebuild kit so I can always rebuild another one. Is it worth doing that or just buying a new one and going from there? I’m thinking because it’s acting like this it’s not spinning the motor over well enough to get a good spark and fire (maybe?)
Nate
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I had a bad starter on my GL1100 3 years ago when I 1st got the bike. The windings were just old and cooked and it would draw way too much current. When it did work, it would seize after the motor got warm. I bought a new one, on-line somewhere, and never regretted it. I was even able to use the same battery for another 2 years, which I initially thought was the problem, until the starter began seizing.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

My logic says it needs to spin fast enough to build compression; once it does then it’ll spark and fire which would explain IN THEORY what it needs to spark. Im gonna go with a new starter and see if that helps anything.


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[GTC@MSAC]

TheRepoGuy » 06 Jul 2019, 13:34[/url]":2wps60kq]
My logic says it needs to spin fast enough to build compression; once it does then it’ll spark and fire which would explain IN THEORY what it needs to spark. Im gonna go with a new starter and see if that helps anything.


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Speed really isn't the answer. I could kick-start my '75 GL1000, and I'm only 135 lbs soaking wet. If a bad starter armature is drawing all the current, your coils will barely ignite, or not at all. A new starter with new armature will draw substantially less current, leaving ample battery current for a hot ignition. Even if cam timing is off, you should get popping and backfiring, but let's hope it's not, lol!

 

[TheRepoGuy]

TheRepoGuy » 06 Jul 2019, 13:34[/url]":94kg6eoo]
My logic says it needs to spin fast enough to build compression; once it does then it’ll spark and fire which would explain IN THEORY what it needs to spark. Im gonna go with a new starter and see if that helps anything.


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Speed really isn't the answer. I could kick-start my '75 GL1000, and I'm only 135 lbs soaking wet. If a bad starter armature is drawing all the current, your coils will barely ignite, or not at all. A new starter with new armature will draw substantially less current, leaving ample battery current for a hot ignition. Even if cam timing is off, you should get popping and backfiring, but let's hope it's not, lol!

She burped once off the right side a few days ago and nothing since then. Speed of the starter cranking the motor builds compression so if it’s not spinning fast enough there’s no way it’ll burn. Should find out soon, new starter tomorrow
Nate


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[desertrefugee]

GTC is right. A well sorted GL should not need to “build” compression to start. If everything is right, it should pop off on the first revolution.

 

[TheRepoGuy]

GTC is right. A well sorted GL should not need to “build” compression to start. If everything is right, it should pop off on the first revolution.

If my old starter was pulling too much juice then I’d agree it doesn’t need anything but she only burped once and nothing now. We shall see when the new starter shows up


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