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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1975 GL1000
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1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine
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<blockquote data-quote="pidjones" data-source="post: 88833" data-attributes="member: 3026"><p>News to report, but not much good. First, I took the snap ring off the U-joint in preparation for pulling the motor. Came off without inventing any new vocabulary. But.... see anything wrong here?</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6407[/ATTACH]</p><p>Then, I got the bright idea to use my USB camera to look in the cylinders. What you see below is arranged as</p><p>1 3</p><p>2 4</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6406[/ATTACH]</p><p> :crying: </p><p> :head bang: </p><p> :rant: </p><p>So, I don't know if it is worth going any further with this block. Doubt this will hone out, and it sure won't run out (will it?). Hard to tell how deep the rust goes. Should I just mount the tank, carbs, and enough electrics to try to start it before dumping it?</p><p></p><p>Guess the next thing is to look for another engine. I don't want to spend over a couple hundred, though - so I will have to be VERY patient. I'd like to stick with a '75 - '77 after all the work I put in the carbs.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pidjones, post: 88833, member: 3026"] News to report, but not much good. First, I took the snap ring off the U-joint in preparation for pulling the motor. Came off without inventing any new vocabulary. But.... see anything wrong here? [ATTACH type="full" alt="DSC06596.JPG"]6407._xfImport[/ATTACH] Then, I got the bright idea to use my USB camera to look in the cylinders. What you see below is arranged as 1 3 2 4 [ATTACH type="full" alt="4cyl comp.jpg"]6406._xfImport[/ATTACH] :crying: :head bang: :rant: So, I don't know if it is worth going any further with this block. Doubt this will hone out, and it sure won't run out (will it?). Hard to tell how deep the rust goes. Should I just mount the tank, carbs, and enough electrics to try to start it before dumping it? Guess the next thing is to look for another engine. I don't want to spend over a couple hundred, though - so I will have to be VERY patient. I'd like to stick with a '75 - '77 after all the work I put in the carbs. [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine
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