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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
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Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1975 GL1000
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Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine
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<blockquote data-quote="pidjones" data-source="post: 89025" data-attributes="member: 3026"><p>Well, the cheapest I can find is Saber Cycle. Is it worth that gamble, or go with a bit better quality and reputation? The valve cover gaskets look fine. I'm thinking that if I take the route of cleaning without splitting the cases (while attempting to remove almost zero metal from the cylinders), the risk of getting grit/debris around the rings is high. I could spin a plastic or aluminum plug with a couple o-rings to push down on top of the piston and protect that area. 70 mm would be about the limit my little lathe will handle, but it should be do-able.</p><p></p><p>I'll wait for the engine to be out of the frame for this. Maybe even figure a way to set it with 1&3 up to give both easier access and better lighting. Scotchbrite and chemicals would be the way to go at first. Goal to remove any loose material and give a sealing surface for the rings. This may well work for low RPM, but will the rings seal to a changing diameter at higher speeds? My training and experience is in physics and particle accelerator engineering. I stopped studying internal combustion engines when I left high school. Just maintenance items since, no major engine work. Maybe I should search and study some basics on engines soon.</p><p></p><p>Another question: I drained the oil and put Rotella 15w40 in before compression testing. Now it is drained again. Will the existing oil film serve through hand-cranking (I prefer the kick start over the generator bolt) for barring over for things like positioning for head removal/replacement and putting the piston at the bottom for the cylinder I'm working?</p><p></p><p>Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="pidjones, post: 89025, member: 3026"] Well, the cheapest I can find is Saber Cycle. Is it worth that gamble, or go with a bit better quality and reputation? The valve cover gaskets look fine. I'm thinking that if I take the route of cleaning without splitting the cases (while attempting to remove almost zero metal from the cylinders), the risk of getting grit/debris around the rings is high. I could spin a plastic or aluminum plug with a couple o-rings to push down on top of the piston and protect that area. 70 mm would be about the limit my little lathe will handle, but it should be do-able. I'll wait for the engine to be out of the frame for this. Maybe even figure a way to set it with 1&3 up to give both easier access and better lighting. Scotchbrite and chemicals would be the way to go at first. Goal to remove any loose material and give a sealing surface for the rings. This may well work for low RPM, but will the rings seal to a changing diameter at higher speeds? My training and experience is in physics and particle accelerator engineering. I stopped studying internal combustion engines when I left high school. Just maintenance items since, no major engine work. Maybe I should search and study some basics on engines soon. Another question: I drained the oil and put Rotella 15w40 in before compression testing. Now it is drained again. Will the existing oil film serve through hand-cranking (I prefer the kick start over the generator bolt) for barring over for things like positioning for head removal/replacement and putting the piston at the bottom for the cylinder I'm working? Sent from my LePanII using Tapatalk 2 [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Restorations
the Hunley, or pidjones needed a project - '78 frame with '75 engine
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