The plan is to turn 140,000 into 50,000

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I'm still at it Fella's and I just learned a valuable lesson, "check youtube first".

I waited 2 weeks thanks to Covid19 for a measuring cup and some tiny funnels to arrive from Amazon to refill my rear shocks and the ATF just wouldn't go in. I spilled more than found its way inside.

Then I found this. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCb2uvU532A



So I guess I'll wait until they're on the bike and try again because try as I might even with no air or fluid in them I can't get them to compress, even by 1mm.
 
Did that video a while back. We should probably find a way to make our tips and tricks video section more noticeable. We have many video tricks like that specifically for 1100's. Of course, our idea was to help folks and save them time from having to search the internet for these things.

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=217290#p217290:26tr387d said:
julimike54 » Wed May 13, 2020 10:00 am[/url]":26tr387d]
Gerry I think the link in that post is broke, not showing as a vid.....
Thanks Mike! I went back and fixed the links!
 
Hey folks I'm at the point of installing the front end and I'm trying to do it as much by the book as I can, but!!!

As much as I want to, some things are just not possible when they just do not exist. Such as this:

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Please can someone let me know what exactly this guy is cranking on? "to the specified torque".

Because to me, that tube is totally empty, I know this because I have removed all the indicator cancelling stuff that was in there, that I really don't need.

Or am I missing something very important?
 
Okay, so in the absence of such an aid in bearing adjustment, I had to go old school on it!

Finding the sweet spot by grasping the forks at the bottom and feeling for bearing slop and then comparing that with how easily they fall from side to side.

The issue here is though, that even when they are obviously too tight from side to side, I swear, I can still feel bearing slop. Very very little, but it feels like it's there.

What am I doing wrong here?

I'm absolutely sure that the bearings are in and seated correctly, I took great pains over making sure they where.

Is it possible that because the last time I did this was on an old BSA firebird that had ball bearings and cups, that I'm expecting to get a different outcome than I will with tapered rollers?
 
Seems like there shouldn't be any slop to me, but I've only done them on bicycles.

I thought all two wheeled vehicles can develop interesting problems when there's slop in the head tube. Tank slap being one possible result.
 
I actually have the experience (albeit over 40 years ago now) of getting this wrong to both extremes. And I $#!T you not, both are pretty scary.

Too loose: Causes a huge judder under braking.

Too tight: Causes an uncontrollable weaving when attempting to go in a straight line.

It's kind've lucky back then, that I only ever worked on my own bikes.
 
Questions guys? do I have the wiring harness routed correctly, or does it go under the bottom yoke?
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And, do I have the wiring container on upside down, curved end on the bottom, this is all stuff that I just I can't remember from taking it apart.View attachment 1
 

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Hey fella's, I'm still at this and now I've got another question. I messed up the left hand grip by pushing it on to far and now I'm destroying it trying to get it back into the right place to fit the switch in place. They are after market but they are the ones I like the best.

I have an opportunity to buy another set but of course because "I" want them, there's only 1 set left and the seller says they are for 1200 thru 1500 GL's.

My question is do 1200's and 1500's also have 7/8" handlebars?

As always I appreciate your help. Thanks.
 
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