Hey Big Andrew your bike looks really cool like that, I cut my windshield down but not that low maybe a inch taller, I can look over the top with ease, the reason for this mod. was because I had a really hard time seeing at night [glare], with the mod. I can see everything now over the top at night..BigAndrew":mcagjso4 said:
Yes it's good, I put the oem site cap in the die and it turns nice in it..As you know the cap on the timing cover is the same size as the oil filler cap, 25mm so I tested my thread job on the new site cap in the oil filler hole and it turns nicely,someone may be better off buying a oem site cap instead of making their own, unless they have the tools in their shop already..Chances of having a 25mm die will be slite, it's not something you will find at any hardware store or auto parts store, gotta order it.. This is a really easy project if you have a little skill but not too much...The adapter is a whole 30 cents, o-ring 50 cents I think, I forgot, and the lexan is like 4 bucks or so . I used pvc glue to glue the lexan disk to the pipe.. If you will look at the photo of the three pieces the adapter has been cut at the nut, I cut that with a band saw, then I take it to the 1" belt sander and I take the threads down until the threads are almost gone but not quite, then to the table vise, I clamp it and put the die to it by hand turning it and reversing it until done, once threaded I test the threads on the bike oil filler hole.. then I cut the thread length down to 9/16" from the nut, that's the length of the threaded end..I sand some on the end and clean it up, done with that part....The Lexan is clamped down to the drill press on a piece of wood, this is a little tricky but not too bad, start drilling but don't get in a hurry because the lexan will melt, so what I do is stop drilling about half way thru and clean the holesaw[15/16"] then proceed on, then sand that little disk to fit tight in the pipe and sand the sides a tad, [patients] place the glue inside of the pipe and place the cleaned up disk on a clean flat hard surface and push the adapter down onto it flush, don't get glue on the glass part only the edges or sides if you do it will mar the lexan....I'll get into making the marks for the crosshairs later.. pretty easy..Again, you would probably be better off buying a new oem one from someone else if you don't have the tools..However the oem one has two glass lenses which makes things really a lot harder to see the marks but it can be done..The trick to seeing the marks is simple, even with a full engine of oil you can see the marks way way better at night..The daylight makes it harder to see but not impossible, at night you shouldn't have any problem at all seeing your marks.. :grin: More on this later with photo'sdan filipi":w04q2a0h said:
Yeh our doggy sure makes us happy around here..joedrum":korreppp said:
Yes sir, that's the idea, not to take away from anyone or anything like that, but there are guy's that have helped me in many ways so I thought I could share my findings, it is most important to make positive that the lexan is glued in good and no possible way it can fall into the engine while running :shock: ... that's why the screw in the side is a good idea..I bet a guy could just sand it smooth to fit the hole and then just push it in, but that's mickey mouse so I'd thread it..After gluing it into place I tried pushing the lexan out using my finger and I can push it out, it's in there tight and glue.. Good..I was thinking of just drilling a hole thru the side into the lexan and then filling the hole with JB weld, once it dries it would be like a pin..I gotta get a small drill bit, tiny..scdmarx":231ogi3k said:
Sir it's on it's way with another little surprise for you, I got my sticker today and patch thank you, I also just posted this on my other favorite site I like both you guy's equally..dan filipi":2htpuhyb said:
No joe, that mark at the higher rpm is still hard to see because the oil bubble up, even at night with the one lense oem one it's near impossible to see the higher rpm mark, but you can sure see the F1 and F2 marks fine,,however that being said I checked it with full oil, so who knows what you will see with lower oil..Joe with the oring off and not cutting any length off the adapter at all you can kiss the cranks ha ha..man if you want to scrape it I bet you can..I wish I could wrap the adapter with like some leather or some material to stop the oil splash totally..keep in mind I have a cheap timing light .. Hey maybe if I resessed the lense then turn it down until it touches the crank while it's running, wow is that crazy Joe or what, I'm going try it, the marks on the crank are resessed lower but that sucker better spin perfectly.. :grin: Joe maybe if I sand down the side real thin then try it with a resessed lense, oh I would not use one of mine for any perminant use, it's not designed for that, I'd stick with the oem one it's a better cap..The cam pully method is still easier to check your timing in my opinion.. :grin:joedrum":2cix39jk said:
No... I won't be selling them... but if you want to make them you know how to, the main thing is they don't leak oil ....cheer's :Egyptian:dan filipi":3adj0d8j said:
dan filipi":3vsq8pk3 said:
