Turd report

[AApple]

Got a little over 1000 miles on the Turd so far, since the major re-hab over the winter. So far, so good. Nothing has fallen off, broke, or misbehaved, at least up to this point.
Still no leaks. :BigGrin:
Starts right up and idles nice every time, regardless of ambient temps(46* here this am).
Tires still holding air, and aren't worn out yet.
So far, it hasn't needed any oil at all...oil level still pretty much where it was when I changed the oil a couple weeks ago. I am now regretting painting the engine black...dang thing just too hard to keep clean. Should'a known better. It does LOOK neat, just shows too much dirt and crap.
No coolant loss, tho I do smell a faint coolant smell at times, mostly after the first start of the mernin. Got enough miles on it now at hiway speeds that I would think all of the coolant from the exhaust pipe(s) would have burned out by now, but not sure.
Steering head bearings made a HUUUUUGE difference in the handling. I can now release the bars while riding if I want/need(I rarely do, tho), without fearing the death wobble as before.
All of the fairing repairs have held up so far.
Best I can tell at this point is fuel mileage is around 38-39mpg. I haven't actually done any figuring, since I always forget to check when I fill up... :blush: While the ride to this job is less than 20 miles(19.4) total, only half of that is on the hiway...the rest is in town...with traffic lights every couple of blocks. At least now I'm not having to fill up every single day just to go to werk & back. I can ride ALLLLL week on a tank now! :music:
I was having trouble with the starter solenoid when I got the engine back in, but I took it off, opened it up, and did some cleaning on it. So far, it hasn't missed a beat since then.

Now for the not-so-gud stuff...
Still have clutch slippage at times, even with the cable backed off so far it's sometimes hard to downshift. Pizzes me off that I NEVER had any issues with the clutch before, and I dint even do anything to it during the rehab. I'm wondering if not using gaskets on both the rear cover, and the clutch cover has taken out too much clearance between the clutch push lever thingy and the clutch release. I plan on crawling under it soon , removing the plug in the center of the clutch cover, and seeing if the lever is tight against the release, and if so, possibly I can adjust it a little looser from there. Otherwise, I'm baffled as to why I now have slippage. If adjusting the pivot lever doesn't do anything, then I'm just gunna be stuck with it until I can get a set of clutch discs, and the time/energy to pull the friggin engine back out. :Awe:
I keep smelling raw fuel when I park in the garage at home. I see no fuel leaks anywhere, from the carbs, fuel lines, or tank. This one has me scratchin me noggin.
My dang neutral light flickers all the time now. Dint really even notice it until the time change, since it's darker now in the mernins. Haven't checked to see if my new connection for it is shorting somewhere or not, but at least it's not something that will strand me, or cause a failure. Hoping it's not the switch. I can live with this one, at any rate.

Time to git back to werk. :builder: :mrgreen:

 

[zman]

Sounding good so far, I bet you can play with that screw and get the clutch fixed..hope you don't have to pull the motor, good news on the steering bearing fix I need to do the same, you had tapered bearing so did you just put new ones in and torque to spec?..really need to do mine.

 

[joedrum]

:rocks: the turd has the runs ....and doing well

 

[Denver]

Steering head bearings make a huge difference if everything else on front end is in order it's stable as a rock, & smooth as silk. :yes: :good:

 

[slabghost]

bummer about the clutch. Have you tried running atf ( about 4 oz.) in the oil? That might clean the plates enough to regain grip.

 

[dan filipi]

What's this about gasket thickness? You have no gaskets on those 2 back covers?
I thought you smeared some sealer on the old gaskets when you put it together. Maybe someone else and I'm confusing the 2.

 

[julimike54]

Smellin gas...you did put the cap back on ?? right?? hahaha

 

[dan filipi]

If you're running without gaskets, if memory serves, the center push pin can be gotten to from the clutch cover. Grind it down 2 gaskets thickness shorter.

 

[Omega Man]

Why would one want to run without gaskets anyway? :headscratch:

~O~

 

[slabghost]

Cover gaskets. As long as it isn't leaking it's probably okay. Eliminating both the rear cover gasket and the clutch cover gasket though will bring the actuator pin in too far to disengage I think. Maybe just make a cork gasket for the clutch cover and adjust from there?

 

[AApple]

I used a gasket on the front engine cover, but on the rear I used sillycone. I used gaskets last time I did this, and they all leaked like crazy....so I used sillycone this time...no leaks. I found the adjustment spec for the clutch lifter thingy...loosen the lock-nut, turn the screw in until resistance is felt, then back the screw out one full tune, and tighten the lock-nut.

GL1100 80-83 Service Manual Page 3-24

• WindNWing
• Oct 16, 2012

Not sure how thick the OE gaskets are/were, but if adjusting the lifter thingy fixes the slippage, then those gaskets must be pretty thick.

I also found the fuel smell source. I looked when I got home this evenin. The dang odd-ball drain screw on the #1 carb is still "seeping". I can see where it has been dripping on the top of the engine. Need to find a correct drain plug, and that'll take care of that issue.

GL1100126a

• AApple
• Mar 24, 2016

Odd-ball drain plug #1 carb

GL1100129a

• AApple
• Mar 24, 2016

NOT correct...LEAKS

... good news on the steering bearing fix I need to do the same, you had tapered bearing so did you just put new ones in and torque to spec?..really need to do mine.

Yup. Tapered roller bearings top and bottom. Service manual has the specs for tightening the nut. :yes:

 

[slabghost]

Clutch lifter mechanism doesn't have a great deal of travel. Might have to back the screw out first to adjust as directed. Good luck.

 

[AApple]

Otay....clutch is now adjusted properly. I removed the adjustment hole cap, loosened the lock nut, and the dang screw adjuster was TIGHT. I backed it off about 1/2 round before it became loose. Then I turned it in until it just hit on the pushrod, and backed it out edzachary one full round, then tightened the lock-nut. Adjusted the cable according to the manual. That should take care of the clutch slippage. I'll know later. :beg:
Found another fuel leak in the process. Dadgum filter has a wee bit of seepage. Gotta fix that, too.
Checked the NSS wiring to see if it might be shorting out somewheres, but found nuttin... :crying: Guess pulling it out and cleaning it was the wrong thing to do...shoulda just left it alone. No friggin way to get it out with the engine in the frame, from the looks of it. I can live with that particular issue for now, anyway.

 

[dan filipi]

I would try shorting the neutral switch to battery + while in gear. Worked for me for awhile at least. You do this just momentary with the neutral switch wire disconnected from the bike wiring.

 

[slabghost]

Okay! Sounds like all you need now is just a good fuel line clamp. :beer:

 

[AApple]

:yahoo:
Clutch adjustment solved the slippage!! :clapping:

Okay! Sounds like all you need now is just a good fuel line clamp. :beer:

I wish.... :blush: Clamps not leaking on the filter...it's the dang seals on the ends. Don't know if the thing has loosened up some since I put it back on, or if it's time for a new filter.

Either way, I'll get it fixed, along with the drain plug on the #1 carb. Just gotta find a plug that will fit/work on it. :yes:

 

[slabghost]

Hopefully a couple O rings is all you need to stop the leaks. Glad the clutch holds again.

 

[dan filipi]

I haven't had any trouble with that same filter yet though I've never felt comfortable with how they screw together. I smear the end seals with grease which makes it feel better while tightening it together.

 

[zman]

I have the same filter and just haven't been comfortable using it. glass and the screw apart function does not inspire confidence when buried in there, still using the nappa gold universal till I find one I like.

 

[Denver]

Randak sells a reusable brass, aluminum, with viton rubber gasket, with a mount for the stock mount location. :yes: Very nice have one on all my bikes, :whistling: at $20 delivered not a bad deal. :nea: