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AApple

AApple

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Dec 3, 2009
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Location
Duncanville, Texas
My Bike Models
1981 GL1100 Innerstate("The Turd")SOLD!!, 1996 GL1500 Innerstate
...story of my life. The guy that's been hounding me to come see The Turd finally called and wanted to come by today. I was actually out uncovering it to fire it up at the time, so I said bring it on. Of course...it picks TODAY to not crank at all. Damn starter clutch has finally taken a complete doo-doo...won't engage at all. SON-OF-A- 😡.... They came and looked, kicked the tires, checked everything out, and were obviously disappointed it wouldn't fire off. I explained what was involved in fixing it, and gave a lower price accordingly. I doubt either of them will accept, but who knows. Guess I'm gunna be forced to pull the dang engine out again and fix it....I REALLY don't wanna. Got to tho if I ever hope to sell it. Dammit....
 
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I know how it is. The very thing you don't want to do and would rather sell it than do it, is something no one else wants to buy and do. I've been there too. And after I fix "it", I do a few other little things in the process. Ultimately I will want to ride it rather than give it away at that point. Or worse, buy one I haven't gone through all the hassle to fix, cause I know mine is already done, lol!
 
That sucks! Pulling an engine just to sell seems crazy! (Wait........ think I might have pulled the engine on the Slug to repaint just sell. Yeah, it's what we do to get a good price.)
 
Engine out finally, rotor removed easily. Start clutch stuff was RUSTY! How the hell does that happen(condensation from cold weather and only starting once a week)??? I assumed there is oil slinging up into the area while running? Sprocket just free-wheeled both directions. Anyway...got the old stuff out, cleaned the rotor and sprag holder up, oiled, and installed new rollers. Sprocket now turns rotor one way, and freewheels the other, as designed. Got too tired to finish today, so it'll hafta wait until next weekend to get it all back together. What a pita it is working on the deck, and having to walk all the way around front to the garage to get tools and shit that I dint take to start with. I did finally run an air hose out today so I could use air tools...that helps!
Got 2 vids on youtube, plus these pics in the Gallery...





 
Very little oil gets up to the starter clutch, which is why it's one of the main sources of frustration with these engines.
I modified a scavenge pump, since it has over-capacity, to run a small bore copper feed pipe up to the clutch, but that's as far as the experiment went, since I'm not pulling a working engine out just to try it. Something for later when/if it comes out for a problem to be fixed.
 
I considered something like that. Not sure I want to spend the time to engineer it tho. Also considering drilling/tapping a small hole in the rear cover over the clutch to be able to pour a little oil down onto the clutch every now and then. I'm pretty sure someone here did this a while back.
 
The stator suffers from the same issue.
Rear of the engine, with no real oil or cooling provided.
The stator puts a constant 14.7 to 14.9 volts into the battery, too much really.
Putting an aftermarket voltage regulator in to drop the voltage helps.
But adapting an external alternator to fit, would be the best option.
 
The Rear Stator does NOT need oil. It does need free air flow and these bikes have an after market side cover that is known as a "Stator Killer" and it does kill the stator due to insufficient airflow around the back of the engine which does not have a lot of airflow to begin with. My Stator does NOT put out 14.7 VDC but 13.8. Maybe its a lil weal I do not know but it works and if it aint broke dont fix it.

On another note there is an option to free the starter clutch without removing the engine.
Drain some of the oil out (8-12 oz ) and fill it with ATF or Seafoam, you can choose. I used ATF and it freed mine up. DO NOT ride the bike hard, just normal to light acceleration and ride it anywhere from 100-400 miles. The seafoam causes the inards to spit out chunks of black crap from your oil that is lodged in all the secret hiding places of an engine. ATF does have some lubrication properties and it stopped the free spin of the clutch starter and engages. When you winterize you rbike use 10W30 becuase 40 and 50 weight oil is far heavier and is good only in the high temp month's of the summer. After Sept if you still riding it switch to a 30W oil for the last few months. This helps keep the clutch starter from get bound up to some degree. Hell if you can get it sold without removing the engine that would be a win win in my book.

During Winter storage the bike should NEVER be started. Multiple reasons why, but, suffice it to say if it is stored and winterized starting it every week ruins the winterization process and the engine never comes up to full operating temperature to burn off any residual humidity (even air humidity) and ruins your stored winterized bike's hibernation factor.
 
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Ran across this while looking thru some old emails. Figured I'd share it here. I tried this, but it dint work for ME.
 
Weather might actually get up warm enough today to start puttin this turd back together. Been in the teens/20s since last Wed nite. 30 right now, and getting warmer. I'd like to at least get the engine closed back up, and bolted back into the frame today. The longer it sits apart, the more Imma gunna forget what goes where....and in what order it goes! :unsure:
 
Hiya Ron! Long time no see!
Well....got the rear cover back on, and engine bolted back into the frame, for the most part. Sadly....it's gunna hafta come back out. :poop: :mad:🤬 I got the upper front and rear mounts, and the lower rear right side mounts bolted up, clutch cable, temp sensor wires, oil pressure wire, timing covers, and tach cable connected. Went to slip the driveshaft up to the engine and install the snap-ring, and.....the friggin driveshaft is no longer attached to the diff splines!🤬 How the HELL did that happen?!? I dint pull the shaft forward(that I remember) when removing the engine. I disconnected the shaft before even removing the engine mounting bolts. I pulled the u-joint up to the engine, and spun the rear tire to line the splines up, and the damn tire just spun loose....wasn't turning the shaft. SONOFA🤬 I just gave up for the day. I'll pull the mounts loose, and try to drop the engine enough to get at the driveshaft next weekend.....after getting back from HRblock.
Some pics from today...

 
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