Working on my solex mod

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Bilgerat

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Ok just intoduced myself in the new member section, so here goes have an 81 that the previous owner had the single carb mod with the Holley 1940 carb that ran like crap even after heavy cleaning. So onto Ebay and got the solex 34 pict 3 conversion sold by falconav put in in adjusted it like crazy to get it to run. Did a run today and got about 26 mpg so I'm starting to look over the carb. First off on the idle jet it has 55 stamped on it so I'm assuming the idle jet is WAY too big as members in the intro section were saying about a 35. Also have gas coming out of the butterfly shaft when the bike is on the kickstand so I'm assuming I have a bad shaft seal which would explain why the idle bounces around, as I sprayed the intake down with starter fluid with no change. So any tips and comments would be appreciated. I'll even take a few wise ass comments. :thanks:
 
Okay first the wise crack. Ya sprayed the manifold but didn't spray the carb!? I'm pretty sure that carb has the tube spraying down into the carb. If it's spraying on the butterfly it probably will flow out the shaft area. Bend it so it doesn't spray the butterfly or the sidewall of the carb. Then try the 35 jet and adjust.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=159988#p159988:cri0je1r said:
slabghost » 2 minutes ago[/url]":cri0je1r]
Okay first the wise crack. Ya sprayed the manifold but didn't spray the carb!? I'm pretty sure that carb has the tube spraying down into the carb. If it's spraying on the butterfly it probably will flow out the shaft area. Bend it so it doesn't spray the butterfly or the sidewall of the carb. Then try the 35 jet and adjust.
Click to expand...


Sprayed the bejesus out of everything below the air cleaner, may just be too rich already that the starter fluid didnt faze it, gonna check the tube aim. Pulled a couple of the spark plugs and they are black with soot, so its definitely too rich
 
Just checked the accelerator tube, the stream is aimed between the shaft and front side of the throat so thats good
 
pretty sure idle jet and primary are different sizes and will swap. So a swap might go a long way. As long as it isn't washing carb walls or butterfly as many tend to do as built.
 
I would take it one step at a time concentrating on the idle while running on the center stand. Idle being toughest to get right, but once that's best it can be then moving up to main jet becomes easy adjustments.
I agree, idle jet is too big, as a start.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=159991#p159991:1arg5lv9 said:
slabghost » 4 minutes ago[/url]":1arg5lv9]
pretty sure idle jet and primary are different sizes and will swap. So a swap might go a long way. As long as it isn't washing carb walls or butterfly as many tend to do as built.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input gonna look for the smaller idle jet and see about replacing the seals on the butterfly shaft
 
ok ...you probably wont find a .035 idle jet for your carb ...here many ..myself included use micro carb bits to resize jets and solder too ...to get sizes we need or think we need ....i dont use or have worked with carb you have much at all....but in general as i see it ...seems idle jet needs to be way small ..pass that on single barrel carbs the main jet has to go rather bigger .....oldwing motors are small but flow can out do car motors cause the rpm can be twice that of car motors and more .....the other thing i see is on one barrel set ups is a lot use to small air filter and at high rpm the carb cant get the air it needs...and they fall off ....to me it just this simple ive worked several yrs in this oldwing mod to car carbs and if your bike is not running way better than stock ..the carb is not quite right ....because stock carbs are easy to beat on there best day ever...slow reacting CV carbs can not beat instant response carbs that use no vacumm.......i dont think yours has any epa junk devices like power valves and such ...but about anything epa induce carb deals need to go home where they belong in the garbage...as they are cancer to a real carb ....my carb is strip of all epa junk tech totally ....some of the progressive carbs are just full of this junk tech....it was a great course carburation ....and i learned why carbs got to the point of being easy to beat with FI systems they were competing against cripple and retarded carbs .....built that way on purpose.....so like stock carbs if your going to get them right ...or best you can ...the whole idea of plug and play needs to be off the table ...you modding a carb to work a motor that is so far from the motor it was desinged for .....seems to me the one barrels can be the easiest to get right they lack a lot of the epa stuff in there simplicity .....witch can only be a good thing ..

i will say if one hangs in there and dont let the carb beat you and you beat the carb the rewards are huge ...my build is the best bike ive ever rode in all ways of looking at it ...good luck :popcorn:
 
Got the replacement butterfly bushing as well. Found the set of pin gages we have at work gonna check the jet size. Also the manifold that the Holley 1940 was on was one of the CI manifolds has anyone tried one with the VW carb?
 
The two barrel to one barrel carb adapter will work upside down. To go from two barrel manifold to single barrel carb. The added height seems to help too.
 
Stupid question #2 before I make stupid mistake #1 the .035 reading is on the tip of the jet and not the holes on the side correct?
 

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