Search results

The speedometer retainer on the wheel failed.

It turns out I was wrong about the Tang down at the hub turning. I replaced that drive several years ago when I had the same problem but I kept the old part. Funny thing is, I can get the tang on that old part to spin when I rotate it with a pin. So I guess I need to figure out why the wheel...

For quite a while, my speedometer would occasionally admit a high-pitched whine especially when cold. After a short period the whine would go away. Now the speedometer has quit working. I have disassembled it and couldn't find any obvious problem. I used a drill to spin it and it moves the...

Here's what was left of the U-joint. I found one and got it back on the road this afternoon but working with the cir-clips and boot about used up all my patience.

After consulting the manual, I see that everything between the engine and the hub except the circlip are part of the drive shaft. I enjoy interacting with this group but it's something that I haven't done in a while. Your suggestions and advice are always welcome.

Well today I got smart and pulled the boot off the swingarm side. It was then that I discovered that both sides of the U joint are destroyed. So it looks like I'll need a drive shaft and the part that goes on the splined shaft coming from the engine. Thanks for the suggestions.

I didn't check the U joint with the engine running. In neutral the U joint spins, in gear it doesn't but the rear wheel spins in gear or in neutral.

On a stand, in neutral, the U joint doesn't move when I rotate the rear wheel. When in gear, that joint doesn't move but the rear wheel will still rotate. So it sound like the problem is not in the engine. I checked the hub and it is full of lube.

It's 1975 with 46,000 miles. I've had it since 1996 when my dad gave it to me. He bought it in 1975.

This GL1000 GoldWing was purchased by my father from the first owner in 1975. He gave it to me in 1996. 46,00 miles

On my last ride last fall, just half a block from the house, I heard a clunking sound and the bike stopped moving other than rolling slightly downhill. I'm ready to start working on it soon so I'm looking for suggestions. I figure it's either something with the clutch or maybe the driveshaft...

I rebuilt the carbs last fall because of flooding issues. I got the best gas mileage ever the first trip after the rebuild. Then the flooding began again. Usually at the start of a trip, but then suddenly it would start running great again. Leading me to believe a needle/seat is not closing...

Right, After reviewing the instructions, I realize I'm an idiot. Float adjustment, Take 3.

I've pulled the carbs and correctly set the float level to 21mm. To bench test it I attached my dirt bike tank with 3 gallons of gas. The two the right side leaked badly and the two on the left showed signs of slightly leaking although it may be attributed to the air box getting flooded from the...

After reading Randakk's GL1000 floats 101 I see exactly what I did wrong. Oh well, I'll just suffer struggling with the throttle cable remove/replace. The worst part of the whole process of pulling the carbs in my opinion.

I set the float levels to where the bottom of the float is 21mm below the carb body. I cranked it awhile and it wouldn't start. In investigating I discovered all the bowls are dry. I pulled the fuel line and I know the fuel pump is working. How long should it take to fill the float bowls? I set...

Is there an alternate method to setting the float level on the GL 1000 carbs without the float level gauge (HC 23892)? The photo in the manual is difficult for me to interpret.

I now realize what the restrictors are for (I didn't look too closely at them since I thought they were for some other use). I'll retry syncing the carbs using them in the lines instead of running the lines direct.

Thank you, that explains the pinching the hose solution. I'll try adjusting the pilot out.

I just rebuilt the carbs on my '75 using a set of gauges I just bought. The left bank (2&4) gauge arrows flutter. I switched hoses to the right side and then those flutter so I know it's no the gauges. I've checked that the O-rings in the manifolds are seated. if I pinch the hoses slightly they...