1983 GL1100 Aspencade won't start

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rolson7560

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Feb 27, 2011
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Round Lake Beach, Il
It's been running great, and all of a sudden this morning, my 1983 GL1100 Aspencade wouldn't start. It was turning over, but not "firing". The Voltage display and the Temp display were "bouncing" back and forth lighting up, which they've never done before. Any idea what's causing this? Regulator Rectifier? Starting solenoid, (which is new btw)? Any help is appreciated!!!....note...it's been hot and humid.
 
Could be the ignition switch(where the key goes in), or maybe the kill switch...
 
Sounds like could be intermittent power.
Do you still have the original dogbone style main fuse? Those can look good but be flakey.
Fuse holders under the false tank tray could be loose also.
 
Didn't have time to troubleshoot this morning...had to get to work. When I got home, I put a charger on it, (ran it dead this am).....and it started right up.....I'm going to give it a good charge and see what happens tomorrow....Thanks for the reply...if I have trouble again I'll yank a plug.
 
Sounds like you have an electrical issue, really. Charging the battery probably overcame whatever bad connection it had. With the gauges/lights fluctuating like you said, I would be inclined to look for a bad connection somewhere....
 
Thanks..I fear the same thing....a bad electrical connection. I HATE those!!!! They can be horrible to track down. I have another question though. At Highway speeds, sometimes my voltage will drop from 14.5 - 14.8 down to 12+, (sometimes as low as 11.8). Is this normal? I'm beginning to think my Regulator Rectifier may be going out.
 
rolson7560":1ydln6su said:
Thanks..I fear the same thing....a bad electrical connection. I HATE those!!!! They can be horrible to track down. I have another question though. At Highway speeds, sometimes my voltage will drop from 14.5 - 14.8 down to 12+, (sometimes as low as 11.8). Is this normal? I'm beginning to think my Regulator Rectifier may be going out.
Click to expand...
Bad connections! Wires at the stator plug are overheating.
 
Check the plug at the regulator also, actually unplug it and look at the connections close. This is where the 3 yellow stator wires go and can overheat and corrode there too along with the other wires.
 
The regulator is under the false tank.
Once the seat is off there are 2 bolts need to come out and there are 2 bolts at the front of the false tank behind the fairing lowers, one on each side then the false tank will lift off.
 
yep....fouind it....I'll be taking the false tank off Thursday, and while I'm in there I'll swap out the annoying flasher unit with an electronic one...THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!!!! I HOPE I CAN RETURN THE EXPERTISE SOME DAY!!!!
 
I got the false tank off and went through all the connectors, unplugged them, cleaned with electrical cleaner, and replugged. I found a burnt wire/connector in the stator wire to the R/R. I'm going to cut the wire bac and put a new section in, with a spade end. I'm hoping this will solve my issue. I have also learned that I may have a faulty starter "button". While strating the bike I found a "dead" spot, that macde it seem like the battery was dead. I bumped the starter button a few times and voila', it started like it was brand new. Next, I swapped out that ridiculous $48.00 flasher unit with an electronic unit. It took me 5 tries, ( and 3 fuses) to get the right hook-up, but now I have TURN SIGNALS EVERY TIME!, for $10.00 and change. If anyone wants the "combination and flasher part # let me know.
THANKS AGAIN FOR THE HELP!!! MUCH APPRECIATED!!!
 

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