Age related maintenance

[Ansimp]

mcgovern61 » Fri Feb 13, 2015 12:51 am[/url]":3rh4czay]

Anyway, Western Honda has it:

BTW, I have been ordering all of my OEM stuff from Western Honda and they are great!

+1 :good:

 

[julimike54]

backyardtrouble » Today, 7:05 am[/url]":205i5wpj]
I have found that most people want take the time to do some of the things on these older goldwings that really need it, and these can help save your motor down the road. If your working on your bike during the winter, or if you just got your bike, these are some of the first things that i do to them. Replace your Shifter seal, it don't take a lot of time or money. Also replace the front seal and gaskets, this will help with that mixing water and oil that has some wondering what is going on. Clean out your overflow tank (reserve water tank) and replace that tube in it, cost about 6 -9 dollars. Most of these tubes are dry rotted or cracked around the collar where it goes into the tank. Plus the other things these guys have listed that suit your needs. Have a good day... :moped:

A little help on the gasket set..I can't find anything like that, do you have part number?

Thank you,
Mike

 

[bronko37]

julimike54 » Thu Feb 12, 2015 3:13 pm[/url]":2frfdo90]

dan filipi » Today, 11:13 am[/url]":2frfdo90]

Is there a particular vendor you used for lines?

Randakk has great products and prices for high quality stuff as well as a wealth of other information pertaining to the old wings.

https://randakks.com/products/stainless- ... rake-lines

 

[backyardtrouble]

You can get these gasket sets at e-bay, these are pretty good sets, and usually with free shipping.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-GL1200-GL ... 0b&vxp=mtr

This is the number of the gasket set. K&P (15-4353)

 

[julimike54]

Thank ya'll for info
Mike

 

[slabghost]

Another thread prompts this suggestion. Older grommets don't hold reliably. Best you replace the ones holding the side covers on.

 

[Ansimp]

slabghost » Sat Feb 14, 2015 2:29 am[/url]":3q6probh]
Another thread prompts this suggestion. Older grommets don't hold reliably. Best you replace the ones holding the side covers on.

+1 and possibly use some kind of safety retaining kit ( I have just used some cable ties through the mounting post)

 

[detdrbuzzard]

fuel filter and antifreeze

 

[C5Performance]

The three items I think most bike or car owners neglect the most is coolant, brake/clutch fluid, and battery fluid.

Coolant is normally recommended to be changed every two years regardless of mileage. Failing to do so not only reduces its ability to cool, but it can become acidic (Chevy truck head gasket failures) which eats parts. Change it before you start to have problems!

Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the hot-cool cycles it experiences. It is also recommended to be changed every two years. It might be a bigger issue up here in the frozen north, but that moisture sits on the backside of the brake puck. It's just a matter of time before your brakes start to drag. Each time you squeeze the lever the puck creeps out a bit more but can no longer return. After owning 5 GL1000's I have yet to own one that didn't need a caliper rebuild.

Battery fluid...anyone using a serviceable battery with removable caps should have a bottle of distilled water and a volt meter in the shop.
Remove and clean the connections, fill each cell to the upper level, and verify voltage is still around 13. I also think pulling the stator connector apart and cleaning/lubing with dielectric grease is a smart move. It melts from excess resistance due to corrosion.

 

[julimike54]

Can you advise where that connection is? I guess I could look in Honda shop manual

 

[slabghost]

On the battery box.

 

[julimike54]

KO

 

[C5Performance]

On the GL1000 look for the round engine cover at the left rear of the motorcycle. There is a white plastic connector that runs along the frame. I believe the 1100 is the same according to pictures I've taken.

Pull the connector block apart, clean and apply dielectric grease and reassemble. If the connectors are green from corrosion I suggest using a small pick or electrical tool to remove each connector from the block. I believe when a bike is sitting on the sidestand, rain runs down the seat and collects in this area. Right now my bike has an icicle hanging right by the connector.

 

[mcgovern61]

I cleaned all of my electrical connections in their respective connectors using my Dremmel with a very tiny bit that fit right in there. Polished those babies right up!! Then dielectric grease in the BACK of the connector where the wires go in because that is where most of the moisture makes its way into the connectors (water just follows the wires right). Sure wish these were water proof connectors, but alas they are not!


You will find that many have cut out the three wire stator connector (like the melted one shown above) and soldered the three wires. The only problem with that is if you pull the motor, you have to cut the wires again to re-solder. I pulled 3 engines out of mine over the last few years and cut the wires three times and they are STILL TOO SHORT! :smilie_happy:

Last year, I invested in new connectors from here:

https://vintageconnections.com/

Installed:

I was the best thing I believe I could do with my stator connector! Almost 1 year later and it is still sealed and no resistance!

 

[dan filipi]

Say Gerry, why didn't you use a more water tight sealed connector instead of one like the original?
For the plug next to it for the ignition, I used a 4 pin trailer plug that is pretty water tight and works well.

 

[mcgovern61]

dan filipi » Sun Feb 15, 2015 2:42 pm[/url]":1kk7qw4c]
Say Gerry, why didn't you use a more water tight sealed connector instead of one like the original?
For the plug next to it for the ignition, I used a 4 pin trailer plug that is pretty water tight and works well.

I was already ordering the water tight bullet connectors from them and saw they had the 3 and 4 wire OEM connectors and the price was right.

 

[C5Performance]

We've always used the Japanese OEM style connectors, and I'm a dealer for NAMZ products (the white ones shown below). Lately though I've been on a Buell project and they used Deutsch or Amphenol AT type waterproof connectors. They cost more but are very high quality and professional looking. I am thinking of offering these on our website as well. I use open barrel type since the closed barrel require a crimper that is almost $200 for the good ones.

 

[Ansimp]

mcgovern61 » Mon Feb 16, 2015 5:28 am[/url]":mo70dbb8]
I cleaned all of my electrical connections in their respective connectors using my Dremmel with a very tiny bit that fit right in there. Polished those babies right up!! Then dielectric grease in the BACK of the connector where the wires go in because that is where most of the moisture makes its way into the connectors (water just follows the wires right). Sure wish these were water proof connectors, but alas they are not!


You will find that many have cut out the three wire stator connector (like the melted one shown above) and soldered the three wires. The only problem with that is if you pull the motor, you have to cut the wires again to re-solder. I pulled 3 engines out of mine over the last few years and cut the wires three times and they are STILL TOO SHORT! :smilie_happy:

Last year, I invested in new connectors from here:

https://vintageconnections.com/

Installed:

I was the best thing I believe I could do with my stator connector! Almost 1 year later and it is still sealed and no resistance!

+1 on a plug that is serviceable for 15 years plus :good:

 

[Ansimp]

Dialectic grease is as effective as a sealed plug if it is not in direct water/etc spray

 

[mcgovern61]

I'm a dealer for NAMZ products

Paul, so now you tell me!!! :whip:

I would have bought them from you!! Spread the word about what else you sell! :yes: