Bertha's Single Carb Conversion Chapter Deaux Plus a major transplant revival

Shop deals on ebay
shop deals on amazon
Advertise with us
Classic Goldwings

Help Support Classic Goldwings:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I cannot understand how you can have a 1 1/2" OD grab bar inside a 1 1/2" ID fuel hose with a hose clamp around tightened as much as it can and it still leaks so much that you can hear it whistle. I agree that the wire makes the outside of the hose a bit unsmooth but the inside has a nice smooth, rubbery layer of nitril.

I have used the same setup as this but using 1 1/4" and have never had an air leak. When you see how the grab bar fits inside the hose you know you will not have any air leaks.

Put a piece of rad hose in a jar of gasoline overnight and see what happens.
image

image

 
On the silicone, yes, its permatex actaully, more rubber in it than the form a gasket. But where I am using it, it is not contacting gas, I used it to plug a hole near the air cleaner, and as filler material in the EPA diaphragm area, its actually between a JB weld patch and a gasket in there, I just used it to fill the spaces. I plugged the holes in there with JB Weld. But I was running low so I used that for filler.
 
I have at most 1.5 inchs of exposed rubber on the inside. The tubing I used was marine grade heavy duty fuel filler hose. Maybe a lighter grade hose would have thinner wire? But the stuff I used is very difficult to bend, and the wire inside it is at least 1/16 of an inch, more like 1 mm. Its quite thick wire. I cannot cut it with a diagonal cutter, I have to trim the wire with the dremel. That and I was told I likely over-torqued it in the attempt to get it to seal. I would record a video, but I have already pulled the carb/plenum assembly to mount the new hose. That and I am putting a thick coat of varnish on the exposed plywood on my adapter.

When I have more resources, I will replace the wood with a nice piece of machined aluminum or steel. But that portion is sealed for now, so not going to mess with it. I am using the radiator hose. Where the rubber is exposed will not have pooled gas in it, just a passing vapor stream, and like I said, the longest piece will have about one inch of exposed rubber on the inside.

But after playing with the leftovers, if you bend this tubing too far the wire definitely rips through the outer and inner rubber, so maybe it was the bend that caused the issue too? but it definitely whistled. The wire tears through the outside on the outside of the bend, and it is forced through the inner liner on the inside of the bend. It just seems like the stuff I have is designed to bend in terms of feet, not inches.

I was telling my stepdad about the use of the plywood, and he was not surprised at all. He said on the farm they used to use wood and leather for a lot of mechanical patches and gaskets. Cheap, plentiful, and relatively easy to cut or form.

What thickness of leather did you use Joe? I have this old jacket from the 80's that I dont think Michael Jackson would wear that would be an ideal candidate for gasket material if its think enough. It is a bomber style jacket, but I dont know what was going through my brain when I had it made. I got it in Spain when Iwas overseas in the Army. Leather was DIRT cheap there back than.
 
my farther usta make bearings(leather inserts) for the old packard straight 8's. they had Babbitt connecting rods(the rod is the bearing). unlike today that have a separate bearing
 
The gates fuel filler hose from oreally's used I think part no. 20204 was 9 something a foot (1 1/2 inch) and stretched over the plenum end with a little coaxing and a little grease and the end of the grab bars went easily. Imho I felt that a fuel filler neck hose for my application having about 1 inch gap between the plenum and the runner this hose would give the best and longest service life due to its construction. Has no wires inside and is cord imbedded for strength. I have checked this hose under acceleration and it does have the slightest of contraction from vacuum but no more open area I have underneath shouldn't I don't think it will effect its longevity.
This just is what I did on mine and it seemed to have worked out very well.
Obviously there are many ways to proceed here and all ideas have benefits and each riders setup will be slightly different from the next one.
This was the least expensive and the best setup I felt for my application.
I was skeptical of using coolant hose due to the fuel contact area (distance) between the plenum and runner on my oldwing.
Obviously the lesser of the open area you have such as Hooch's would probably be the best way to go regardless of hose used.
 
I will have to keep that number in mind. For now, I am having another issue

Cyclinder 2 and 4 are wet and fouling now, but 1 and 3 are just rosy.

All I did was change my runner boots and put on new runner gaskets on the heads.

I guess I need to go through the timing again, and make sure its on. Would timing cause this?

Just getting tired of fixing one issue and another comes up, I have spent yet another summer rebuilding. Should have kept the yami, i had that spot on, but oh well.

SO I am off to check the timing belts, see where my coolant leak is (its dripping off the left head tinming cover) and see if I can get past this one. I had it idling the night before last, and all seemed okay, I figured the new hoses which seal much better than my wired junk would fix the last of the vacuum issues. Just wnated to know if timing could cause issues with fouled plugs is all I guess.

I will keep plugging away, but I am way over budget on this, and its getting to the point of being a lost cause. I cant keep blowing 20 to 40 dollars a day with no results. Its getting out of hand.
 
no it wont ... check your work ... is this the downhill side it might be carb leasking in cylinders but i am thinking 2 and 4 are up hill side ... if its that ... its leaking air id say in the runners on that side ...probably at head
 
SO does it matter which side is up or downhill? If so, should I try to level the carb. Yea, I am sure its at the head, I tried cutting gaskets from material that is way to rigid and thin, and I tried doubling it up, that never works. That has to be it. Still going back over everything I have done this week. Now I am doubting all things I hgave touched kind of thing.

May I PM you on this Joe?

I know its not the joints, that rubber seals to the runners way to nicely.

I am going to revisit my wood adapter plate too. I was not able to use the self tappers like you descrtibed cause I had already drill the matching holes for the carriage bolts. And those heads are in the way. I also think my plywoord is a poor grade. It is full of those gluing error hols in the plys. I need to go up for a sheet of 5/8 anyway, my ramp is getting weak.

Still going to check timing and al lthat again.

One last question, if I can get my hands on sheet rubber, how would that do for the gaskets. More on that, the joints seal very well with the rubberized cork. But they burn. Oh do they burn, and once they heat through, boom goes the vacuum. So I tried flat sheet rubberized paper 1/32 in thick. Its too thin and wount budge enough for imperfections, its more of a cover gasket material, and like I said, I doubled it up. so I am sure air is getting through there.

So would 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch rubber sheet. Will that work?

Thanks Joe
 
Oh drrr, kickstand. Its the downhill side, left sitting on the bike.

And right now its center standed, but I am going to Oreally's to see what they have.

And now for the complete dumbass award, further proof that perhaps I should not have reproduced, today's Darwin award goes to grampy krakum. :music: :music: :music: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :rocks: :rocks: :rant: :rant: :rant:

I checked number one. I had the gasket in the wrong way, the eccentric off set was laying the wrong way, so it was pulling massive air in on the head. The other three are firing correctly now.

Its just the one bad cylinder now, number 1, and it might help if I put the gasket in correctly, I am going to go get some new gasket stuff and gas, and try this one more time before I send it to the scrap heap.
 
Here's my sign....

and weightlifter, I am checking on the 20204 fuel hose too, that would be cool, but I have to wait for the first on that.
 
yep got to have cush room in the gaskets ... i dont really like the rubber much though i am not having problems with it ....its hard to work with it .....even cereal box makes for a good gasket and you can layer that quite successful ... it pretty much a one time deal but at the moment thats what i am using on either side of the plywood head rings i got that match the grab bar flange ... this is not plug and go here this is all serious modding you cant get down when something dont work ..you just do better ...enough of that crap ...now the whole idea its on the downhill side means it can just be carb spilling over and leaking in cylinders ... first thing id try is ...get it back level start it again after taking plugs out and cleaning them up .....also spin the motor over with plugs out a clear it out good .....your runners may not be leaking at all at the moment ...especially if the other side plugs are looking good ... if it runs like it did the other day ...when done turn gas off and let carb drain down thats what im doing right now ... as mine will spill over some i live in mountain goat country no matter what stand you use it aint going to be level at all ... might have to adjust float down some some day just dont have time now to mess with that nyself at the moment ...oh and yes you can pm me ...we can exchange numbers and talk on phone if you want ....gasket making sounds simple but it not really ...but is doable for sure with great results
 
Yep, it was that bad gasket, I rearranged the plugs so the ones that were nice and gray went in the bad cylinders (number 3 was weak but running). Than I checked the torque on the bolts, and seated the new gaskets. I cut the new gaskets from Car Quest rolled gasket part number JV-13, they hang it in back, this was a full 1/16 inche thick. 3 times the thickness of the stuff I was using, and it is a stiffer cork designed to work on heated areas.

So I mounted the new gaskets, and there she is!!!......

This is the best I have heard it run or idle, ever! It seems to like 1250 for the idle speed so that is fine with me. The timing is close but I need to check it tonight. Once I do that I will get all formal on the air/idle. I will take it for a run and see how she does, but it is running so much better than the last setup...way better.

And that junk was better than the carbs. So I cant wait to dial it in.

Which I start tonight!!!!

Sorry if I got down on myself, but I have been busting my ass on this, and for what happened to happen, well I was mad as heck...so thank you Joe for the slow down and take a deep breath string.

I think one of the header bolt area on the right head is feeling weak, I did not put a great amount of torque on it cause I want to be able to back it out. I am hoping I can just re-tap and fix it so I am trying to avoid any further thread damage. But I may need to tap it out larger. Scares me, but any advice on that would help.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=125888#p125888:2ken1nlg said:
weightlifter99 » Thu Jul 17, 2014 9:48 pm[/url]":2ken1nlg]
Sound n great Krakum! Starts quickly and idles good....hows bout that ride report?
Click to expand...

i not criticizing at all, BUT it doesnt idle good, mine doesnt eithor(yet). it sounds like it has a big cam in it, and it probably doesnt, so thats not right
 

Latest posts

Top