Bringing up an old subject. " The Stator"

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I am surely not trying to be critical but did you shrink the heat shrink tubing with heat? Looks loose to me on the ends. In my experience heat shrink tubing applied properly is plenty of protection. The tape will get messy like was mentioned earlier. Congratulations on the repair. Don't it feel great to fix something ?? :clapping:
 
To me shrink tube is a hassle.
I find that if there a couple tiny strands poking out it can poke through shrink tube.
I like to use 3m electrical tape, it stays put and with a few wraps on the splice there is good insulation to prevent a short.
The cheap home center tape won't last, looks sloppy and will unwrap.
 
as mentioned earlier. Higher wattage soldering irons are preferable. Those tiny pencil irons are adequate for tiny electronics only. The thicker the wire to be soldered the heavier and hotter the iron needs to be. A good solder joint is one where the solder flows freely into the wires. If the solder pulls away from the connection with the iron it is too cold. I've never had a problem using heat shrink tubing but I usually tape or strap the wires together.
 
dlslick":2jkizq71 said:
I am surely not trying to be critical but did you shrink the heat shrink tubing with heat? Looks loose to me on the ends. In my experience heat shrink tubing applied properly is plenty of protection. The tape will get messy like was mentioned earlier. Congratulations on the repair. Don't it feel great to fix something ?? :clapping:

Yes the ends are sloppy. :oops: I knew some one was going to notice...

Long story short I'm completely re-doing it this weekend. :rant:

~O~
 
toytender01":7wcjdp8h said:
Airplanes don't use crimped connedtions it either soldered 0r twist lock commectors at least in fighters....they can't pull over to fix a loose connection :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :Egyptian: :Egyptian:
Airplanes use continuous wire. Each wire is a home run continuous length to its final connection and each connection is a terminal or manufactured connection. Passenger boats are the same....no soldered or twisty connections....vibration and heat cause unseen connections to fail and similar to airplanes, ya can't get thar from here!
 
Wow! We should have made the way to connect the stater wires a separate thread. I always thought soldering was the best connection, took the time to learn to do it properly and prided myself in a well done connection. I spent 20 years in the USAF as an aircraft mech working on C-5 Galaxies. It was 247 feet long, almost a football field. Although desirable, most times we couldn't and didn't run a new wire from nose to tail, also, all wiring was white and the only way to tell what circuit it was was by the number stamped on it so you didn't want to loose that either, so you repaired the wire. Later, I worked on Cadillacs, got the opportunity to go to SET class, Special Electronics Training. We were shown on a periodic chart that the more electrons an element had the better the conductor it was and the less electrons it had the better insulator it was. Lead was closer to and insulator than a conductor according to the periodic chart. We were told that the lowest ohm connection that we could make was with butt connectors. A lot of the computer controls and sensors worked on 5 volt reference and soldered connections could cause enough resistance in the circuit to cause skewed reading and even set codes. We were also told that in a high vibration environment, soldering was still the only way to restore original strength to wiring. I now work on fire trucks for the county and we use the 3M connectors with the heat shrinkable insulation on them that weep a little sealer when they are properly shrunk. Easy, fast, weather proof, and we love to use them to replace troublesome weather pac connectors because you loose a minimal amount of wire when you replace them, like when replacing a component which is the purpose of connector in the first place. The question is, how often do you need to replace a stater or an engine? The stater connector was probably used in the first place to speed production and not for us as owners or field technicians. Dan's warning about heat shrink should also serve as a warning. It looks great but can do just what he says and allow a wire strand to poke through and short your stator. Also, the tape allows access later for testing. Myself, I'll be using the 3M blue connectors when the need arises.
 
well , i'm the odd man out on this subject. rather than soldering the wires together, ( not saying it doesn't work, it does .) i prefer to solder new connections and fit new plugs. then pack em with a bit of di-electric grease and bobs yer uncle.
check them once a year and you will never have a problem. :Egyptian:
 
yyep nothing wrong there eithrr..personally i really hack them and use wite nuts and sealer looks like crap ...wires ate seperatrd witch really cuts heat....good info inthis tread though.....i will tefer to thid thrrad
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=172942#p172942:1h7gte2t said:
aussiegold » Sat May 07, 2016 4:40 am[/url]":1h7gte2t]
well , i'm the odd man out on this subject. rather than soldering the wires together, ( not saying it doesn't work, it does .) i prefer to solder new connections and fit new plugs. then pack em with a bit of di-electric grease and bobs yer uncle.
check them once a year and you will never have a problem. :Egyptian:
This is an old thread and I personally have learned a lot about my electrical system since I first posted in this thread. I too am cleaning the connectors and/or replacing them with great success! After pulling the engine a few times, I realized soldering over and over is a pain in the butt where connectors are the better solution. Just keeping them clean and corrosion free has worked wonders for my electrical system!

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Fill them full of dielectric grease if you want to really protect them properly :yes:
 
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