Changing the Oil

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I stopped trying to find oil filters a while ago... Now I use "Spin On" automotive filters which have a little more "ease" of obtaining and have anti-drainback valves which the OEM ones didn't have (they only had the relief valve built into the center bolt) now I go to Advance Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Walmart, etc and buy a bunch of filters on sale ans with the Mobil V-Twin oil it takes me about 5 minutes from start to finish to change my oil and I don't even get dirty....



Rich

(See The Pic of my adapter on my bike)

Oil Filter Adapter.jpg
 
You can get the oil filters at almost any auto parts store or order them on the web.

Oil Filter for GL1000 & GL1100

  • Honda Part #15410-426-010, 15410-422-004
    FRAM #CH6009 (comes with both o-rings, $4-$5 locally)
    Napa #PS4940
    Purolator #ML16809
    WIX #24940 (O'Reilly's)

As illustrated in the tutorial, I go with RotellaT 15W-40 from Walmart. The last gallon I bought was $12.50 or so.

6-fillit.jpg
 
Thanks Roady, and everyone else that takes their time to help us. I have a question...The previous owner had switched over to synthetic oil. I have heard it isn't good to keep switching. I want to switch back to regular oil, because I just believe it is better for the bike. Is it okay to switch back in your opinion? And Rich asked a question I am curious about as well. Some people change every 5,000 miles. The manual says 5,000. Is that when you change yours?
 
I'd say to change it every 3,000 myself with a filter at every change, although that can get expensive, it's much cheaper than replacing the engine due to failure.

Oh, and as far as switching back from synthetic to regular oil, 1 time shouldn't hurt, but I wouldn't recommend going back and forth between the 2.
 
Roady":100u382t said:
You can get the oil filters at almost any auto parts store or order them on the web.

Oil Filter for GL1000 & GL1100

  • Honda Part #15410-426-010, 15410-422-004
    FRAM #CH6009 (comes with both o-rings, $4-$5 locally)
    Napa #PS4940
    Purolator #ML16809
    WIX #24940 (O'Reilly's)


This filter at NAPA is $5.99, and my local store keeps them in stock...they fit a LOT of Honda bikes...Goldwings from '76 to '87. Filter and two o-rings. :good:
I been paying $11 at the bike shop.... :rant:
 
n2ppn":ckm1sby8 said:
How often time/miles do you change the oil?? Just curious... Oh and how many miles on "Winnie" and her "fat twin sister"???
Rich
It's good that you consider elapsed time and miles because some guys ride more, some less. I try to keep to the oil industry's schedule on the bike, 3k miles or 6 months. (But the car is a different story. It does 120 mile round-trip commutes, so for that one, every 5k miles.)

patbrandon1":ckm1sby8 said:
Thanks Roady, and everyone else that takes their time to help us. I have a question...The previous owner had switched over to synthetic oil. I have heard it isn't good to keep switching. I want to switch back to regular oil, because I just believe it is better for the bike. Is it okay to switch back in your opinion?
I agree with PlskT. I usually order a half dozen filters at a time from BikeBandit, they're less than $5 each, so I change the filter every time. And you shouldn't have any problem switching back to dino oil, it's less expensive too. :good:
 
I agree that time is a factor to consider as well as miles ridden... As far as leaving a dirty filter on the bike and only changing the oil.... I can't see it.

In most automotive applications that use full synthetic oil, the only thing the top mechanics agree on is to change the filter more often than the oil... the filter keeps the dirt/crap out of the oil, if you only change the oil and not the filter, you not only contaminate the fresh oil with the dissolved byproducts that are still in the filter chamber and inside the filter element, you don't have as much CLEAN filter left to keep your new fresh oil clean... for five to ten bucks for a new filter and the additional 1/2 quart to fill it... doesn't make sense to me....

Again, just my $0.02 worth...

Rich
 
all i was saying is if i dont have a filter and the oil looks bad ...i change it its better than running with bad oil it dont instantly crap the oil ...it only gets better i change oil a lot period ....i use old oil alot around here ...so it isnt wasted ...ican tell my oil is mostly clean when i change it ...constantly clean oil dosnt dirty filter to fast at all ...its all about ones bike and the motor in it and how it operates and he care one puts into it ....im not saying dont change filters ...im saying change oil often ...the oil is much more important than the filter is to the motor ...if you have good motor change filter every 3000 to 5000 miles change oil more often
 
Having worked for an oil company in Pontiac, Michigan for five years before I finished college and started in the plastics industry, I learned a bit about oil. On occasion I filled fifty five gallon drums with motor oil. Out of the same 500,000 gallon tank of 10 W 40 motor oil, I would fill hundreds of three different colored barrels, red, dark blue, and light blue. I also had three different stencils I would label the tops with. Shell, Sunoco, and the house brand, who's name I won't say. They varied in price, house brand being cheapest by far. But I assure you it was all the same oil. Then we would add some paraffin to the same oil, and label yellow, and green drums with Penzoil, and Quaker State. (I will never put either of those in a motorcycle or car or truck, as long as I live). Don't even get me started about hydraulic oil vs. brake fluid, and the differences in price because of what it was labeled, and not the quality, and add a pinch of dye to it, and charge even more, and call it transmission fluid.

So, the label isn't necessarily telling you anything. I researched my choice, and have run Rotella oil in my bikes since I've had bikes. Match the specs of the oil to what your bike manufacturer calls for. A friend of mine had two different oils analyzed. One from the shelf of a discount department store, and one from an area bike dealer. The ONLY difference was...the one from the bike dealer costs more than twice as much. But it did have a prettier label, and a famous company name on it. :headscratch:

If I can buy the same exact quality oil, coolant, or hydraulic fluid for half the price, I'm going to. Research it for yourself. I have owned quit a few motor vehicles in my life, and have never had an oil or coolant related problem. I change it often, more often than the manual says to, and continue to have great motor responses.

One word about synthetic motor oil. Does it reduce engine wear better that standard oil? The jury is still out, but I was at a demo for a company trying to sell our manufacturing company synthetics for our machines. We bought some for some particular applications, because the synthetic is slipperier, and makes the hydraulic motors work easier, causing less power to run them. We are still assessing if the cost is worth it. There is no proof that it reduces engine wear, even from the salesman. I run synthetic oil in my 88 F-150, and it gets better millage since I changed to it in 1990. Two to three miles per gallon better. Runs cooler too. When I asked the pro about if it would have this affect on my bike, he said there isn't enough travel in my engine parts for me to notice any difference in gas millage, and he couldn't tell me there was any better protection from engine wear.

Just sharing some of my knowledge and experience with you. Bottom line, research, change oil often, and follow the manufacturers specs for oil.
 
I am not going to speak to the oil as mentioned by patbrandon1, but I know for fact that when I sailed as Captain on gasoline tankers in New York, all of the gasoline came from three refineries and there were no grades. We would load it and get our orders for delivery and guess what.......mid trip our orders would change from a delivery to Exxon to a delivery to Mobil.......no changes in the product, just destination. All additives that differentiated the gas would be added at the tanker truck! (So much for those special blends!)

image.php
 
I had done some research a while back on using motor oils in a multi-use environment like our GL's where it is used both for engine lubrication AND transmission lubrication... the research I did lead me to determine that the Mobil V-Twin in 20W-50 weight out performed most other oils in the tests that were conducted for the parameters I decided useful to MY set of specifications...

Have I used "no-name_ conventional oils in my equipment/vehicles... yes I have, do I want to prematurely tear down my GL for what could be later determined as a failure of proper lubrication or premature wear of internal parts/mechanisms, NO I DO NOT...

I decided to err on the side of caution and use what I researched to be the best available lubricant for MY needs... If it costs me more, then I just factor that into what will be spent on repairs and replacement parts down the road.... might it all be a wash??... Who is to know...

I try to buy things on sale and with discounts when ever possible, I was just passing along reduced price info the I had found to anyone who might also use the oil that I have chosen to use in MY wing...

Not wanting to get into a "pissing" contest on who's oil is better, cheaper, the same, or why... It was just a FYI "this stuff is on sale"... posting


Rich
 
n2ppn":2x5ezujl said:
I had done some research a while back on using motor oils in a multi-use environment like our GL's where it is used both for engine lubrication AND transmission lubrication... the research I did lead me to determine that the Mobil V-Twin in 20W-50 weight out performed most other oils in the tests that were conducted for the parameters I decided useful to MY set of specifications...

Have I used "no-name_ conventional oils in my equipment/vehicles... yes I have, do I want to prematurely tear down my GL for what could be later determined as a failure of proper lubrication or premature wear of internal parts/mechanisms, NO I DO NOT...

I decided to err on the side of caution and use what I researched to be the best available lubricant for MY needs... If it costs me more, then I just factor that into what will be spent on repairs and replacement parts down the road.... might it all be a wash??... Who is to know...

I try to buy things on sale and with discounts when ever possible, I was just passing along reduced price info the I had found to anyone who might also use the oil that I have chosen to use in MY wing...

Not wanting to get into a "pissing" contest on who's oil is better, cheaper, the same, or why... It was just a FYI "this stuff is on sale"... posting


Rich

Very well put Rich. I hope my post didn't ruffle anyone's feathers. Just my experience. The point is to do the research! To quote an insurance ad I have seen lately. "You can't put anything on the internet if it isn't true." There is a bunch of false or wrong info about a lot of things. Research doesn't mean to google it. There are product analytic proofs available from the oil manufacturers, and if one takes a pen in hand, and sends them a letter of inquiry, you will get a response, and a data sheet. Thank you for sharing the sale of the oil. It is a great choice of oil, if someone is looking for good stuff to use. My biggest beef is the oil in a H...a labeled bottle, is more than twice as much as the same exact oil from an auto supply store. Just because it has a pretty label, and a brand name on it, doesn't justify this extra cost, and people are mislead. I always suggest that riders follow what their manual says to use because that is what they tested on it for use. Are there better choices? Who knows? I am a purchasing agent for the company I work for. And not ONE time have I been shown that one high quality oil reduces motor/engine wear more than another. If they show me that, I'll buy it, but ya gotta show me some undeniable proof. And words on a piece of paper will not convince me to spend twice as much as I need to. My 30 year old Goldwing has an engine that still purrs like the day it was born. When it dies, I'm going to have the internal parts analyzed for wear. But I think there is another 100,000 miles before that will happen. I use Rotella standard motor oil, ever since the first oil change. Your choice for Mobil V-Twin in 20W-50 is an excellent one. And truly, if someone is looking for opinions on what to use, to err on the side of caution is an excellent idea. I live in Michigan, and the 20W-50 would not suit me, but would suit many others. Thanks for your input and the heads up on the sale.
 
In the early 90s here in Oz BP sold an oil called Coarse Plus, it was quite thick and the colour and the way I poured reminded me of molasses. When added to a worn engine that smoked like puffing billy it would reduce the amount of smoke and dry up the wet exhaust pipe. It was also used extensively in turbo charged Touring cars as is didn't burn up as easily as other oils. Towards the end of the 90s the oil had become lighter in colour and poured a lot easier, it also didn't have the same smoke reducing effects on a worn engine. Name stayed the same but not the product. :Awe:
 
For the Goldwing, I gave in to what ever oil makes my clutch work smooth, and my starter clutch engage.
Right or wrong, I let the motorcycle decide. And that meant 2 oils for 2 motorcycles. :moped:
 
n2ppn":26m2x21a said:
I had done some research a while back on using motor oils in a multi-use environment like our GL's where it is used both for engine lubrication AND transmission lubrication... the research I did lead me to determine that the Mobil V-Twin in 20W-50 weight out performed most other oils in the tests that were conducted for the parameters I decided useful to MY set of specifications...

Have I used "no-name_ conventional oils in my equipment/vehicles... yes I have, do I want to prematurely tear down my GL for what could be later determined as a failure of proper lubrication or premature wear of internal parts/mechanisms, NO I DO NOT...

I decided to err on the side of caution and use what I researched to be the best available lubricant for MY needs... If it costs me more, then I just factor that into what will be spent on repairs and replacement parts down the road.... might it all be a wash??... Who is to know...

I try to buy things on sale and with discounts when ever possible, I was just passing along reduced price info the I had found to anyone who might also use the oil that I have chosen to use in MY wing...

Not wanting to get into a "pissing" contest on who's oil is better, cheaper, the same, or why... It was just a FYI "this stuff is on sale"... posting


Rich

Not a PISSING MATCH and thanks for passing along a sale opportunity.

Apparently my question was taken as a brand type,not what I meant.
Reguardless of brand,why would you opt for an oil engineereed for an air cooled Vtwin rather than an oil (provided by the same manufacturer) engineered for a water cooled four cylinder?

Not trying to be rude,just don,t understand the reason.As skmrx also said,and for the same reasons,I to use three differant oils in four differant bikes,it seems the tranny is pickier than the motor.but nothing as thick as a 20w50 or a Vtwin oil.

I always just assumed those fricken H-Ds needed thicker oil to hold em together. :beg:
 

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