GL1100 RUNNING RICH

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auctioneeral

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Ok call me what you want. But here i am again. I installed empi 34 pict 3 carb after some adjusting got it running good. Put about 260 miles on it. Then it got to the point I had to readjust everytime I want to ride bike, plus the bypass screw I could only turn 2 turns so the head of the bypass screw is all mess up now.
So I figured I clean the honda carbs and try them. All the jets are open now,all air passages were check with small wire and 110lbs of air, new air cut offs, acc pump, new O-rings. I cleaned up all the slides to they all slide smooth.
Started bike yesterday, started right up no choke, but its running rich and when you rev it up it takes awhile to return to idle. After more checking #2 was cold exhaust pipe, plus #2 was hard to get it to syn with number 4.
Today torn carbs out. I check #2 carb idle jet and it was clean. Blew air thru what I could.
Reinstalled carbs idles at 1000rpms but still same problem when rev up it takes time to return to idle and NOW when idling at 1000rpms it will rev up by it self to around 2000rpms and then 30 seconds drop back down.
#2 carb I think it a problem because of were I have the sycn screw at to get it real close to #4.
And with the sync gauges hook up at idle is around 1-2 lbs on all 4 carbs. I don't know if that means anything.
I'm at the end of my rope on this motor.
Or is there somebody out there that would check carbs out besides pistol pete, I don't want to pay that price right now, maybe over winter.

This single carb.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LMwNDOxFWm0[/video]

Yesterdays start up
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvGzOxnCl34[/video]

today start up and you can hear the motor pick up speed on it's own.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-2SZ9a66cM[/video]
 
Maybe one or more slides aren't returning to home closed at idle.
Possibly float level, especially on #2 too high or flodding over.

The low sync vacuum is telling me the throttle plates need to be opened further than they should be to hold an idle. Smoke tells me too rich.

Try this, start it with gas on then turn the gas off and report back if it seemed to run better after a minute or so.
Engine speed will likely increase as the over rich condition gets leaner.
 
well the one carb is totally out of the game ...sycning carbs wont do a thing on carbs that are not right ... as soon as you move throttle plate carbs are going off track big time ...it makes no difference if carb is single or stock carbs when there off they have to be righted ...hang in there :BigGrin:
 
I think its in #2 carb because, looking at sync gauges as it running #2 does not keep up with #1,3,4. It will stay awhile and then go off. Had it running 3000rpms #1-3-4 running 9-10 on gauges #2 6-7. resync and same it wont same on with other carbs. I did spray more spray around #2 #4 vaccum piston caps and motor bog down.
But it is running real rich because I'm working outside and just now the exhaust is burning eyes. Of course its only 96 degree here today.
Video is of it running and then shutting up fuel.

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxJVOfFitRM[/video]
 
Okay so definitely looks too rich at idle seeing as it sped up as the bowls lowered.

It doesn't sound like its firing on all 4 during that entire last video.
How's the compression?
Getting spark at all 4 plugs?
 
Interesting too is it ran good for 200+ miles on the single then went to crap. It's sounding like crap on the stock carbs also.

Take a good look at the ignition and check the compression.
 
no im not .....but it for sure running worse now than yesterday ...i bet plugs are foul if so ...the other carbs are not right either ... yes ... got to check plugs a lot to know what going on ..to make moves ... idle it only for awhile check plugs ... carbs have circuts they run on different rpms and throttle ... it just has to be figured out what going on ....

the pic carb sounded the best to me so far ...id be back to if it were me ...
 
You can try running it with the valve off and see if it improves before it dies, or just check the amount of fuel in the bowl, maybe check the wire for spark(or did you)..I know 2 of the carbs need the "D" rings(orings) and 2 do not, if they all had them that would be OK but if the wrong carbs didnt have them they would leak fuel and cause a rich condition.
Do a plug check and if it is rich start with the spark and float level, if the level checks out it could be the oring is on the wrong carb and letting extra fuel in, or maybe the plenum half is leaking..check there too.
Gotta be something there, spark or too much fuel or no fuel.
 
compression test 165-170 all wide open throttle. plugs pure black #2 black wet.

My spark is all mess up.
#1 I got to get new plugs.
I just check spark on #2 no spark. Put a used plug in #2 got spark but no spark on #1.
I'm just going to wait to pick up spark plugs and walk away from it for now because I'm afraid if I keep at it today the bike may see the cutting touch.
 
Sounds like you have a rich condition on all of them, plugs aren't a bad idea just think it will not solve the problem. couple of things come to mind, a leaking plenum center seal, all carb floats set too high(they set when the float tab touches the needle,not fully compressed) or those 4 o'rings I mentioned being on the wrong carbs(see roady`s tutorial on the carbs that use them to be sure you have them right) Actually Roady's tutorial is right on , that's what I used.
 
Have you cleaned and set the air/fuel mix screws? If not now might be a good time. If the air filter box is not installed the carbs won't act right. They need plenum vacuum to lift the slides. If air/fuel mix screws have been cleaned and set at baseline per manual then turn them all in 1/2 a turn and try again. Synch of carbs is done at linkage. One carb (and I forget which) is not adjustable. So the other three need set to the unadjustable carb.
Mixture screws should ideally be set to highest rpm at each carb one at a time. Twice.
 
Agreed plugs won't solve the problem why they fouled but at least we know compression is good which is the best place to start.
Unfortunately it looks like back into the carbs to solve this and taking a break from it sounds like the best move right now.
 
But its are firing on all the cylinders I don't think. Why is it that if I pull plug wire off plug, the motor doesn't change on some of the cylinders but other cylinders the motor changes sound. To me that means not all firing correct.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=156302#p156302:3hifa2w0 said:
auctioneeral » Mon Aug 17, 2015 7:26 pm[/url]":3hifa2w0]
But its are firing on all the cylinders I don't think. Why is it that if I pull plug wire off plug, the motor doesn't change on some of the cylinders but other cylinders the motor changes sound. To me that means not all firing correct.
Click to expand...
You are correct. Close look at the entire ignition is in order. Weak spark has caused many to tear into carbs over the years.
 
How do I go about testing the coils. Now take a easy because I'm not good with a ohm tester. I'm thinking of starting at the 4 pin pulse generator plug near battery. then up to the spark units and then to coils. Correct me if wrong or what I should be checking and how.
I'm thinking now maybe its in ignition because last week when I had single carb on it, I was riding and all sudden it just started to bog down and stall. And it took over ahour to get it to fire up and ride home bogging down. I figured it was the carb then, plus I wanted to try the honda carb rack that I spend 2 weeks going over.
 
1st test is just plug your new plugs into the wires. Ground the plugs against the motor and check for spark hitting the starter. Two plugs go to each coil. If two have good spark and two do not that narrows the search.
 

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