Langdons 32/32 leaking float valve.

[dan filipi]

El anders, your video's are outstanding!
You have an AFR and I'm jealous, I've been wanting one for a long time.
You're readings here are telling us the true deal and imo an AFR is the only way to know what each change is doing, it certainly eliminates much of the guess work. Well done!

Pulling the spring had a true effect in the right direction.
Your bike sounds very good to me. You are the best judge being there feeling and hearing it.

I'm anxious to see what readings you get with the power valve plugged. I hope you do it.

 

[dan filipi]

This thread has me dreaming now, where did you get that AFR meter and how much was it?

 

[ekvh]

Isn't pulling the spring the same as plugging? I guess not if you pulled just the spring. You would pull the spring and the assembly, the rod which goes down to the valve, correct? Then you should plug the vacuum hole in the top cap as it will pull a vacuum on the float chamber. Shouldn't pull fuel, but fuel vapor and could pull fuel when cornering if you were really leaning. It's possible that it could leak, but with a new carb it shouldn't allow any fuel by it. I remember someone's (Dan's?) rebuilt one slowly leaking. I like the idea of plug to be certain, but if the valve is functioning as it is supposed to, it shouldn't leak. In normal operation, high enough vacuum pulls the power valve up and closed. Lower vacuum allows it move down and open. This in turn allows more fuel to the main jet.

My experience is only with tinkering with a 32/36. A 32 dft might be different.

 

[dan filipi]

Yes mine leaked past the ball check that the diaphragm pushes open.

The unknown whether or not some gas is leaking past that ball is why I'd plug it even in a new carb in our application.

I believe El-anders is the first person to put a meter on this mod to see in fact what is going on with the PV. It also seems to show that the wide variations at idle clearly show that some work needs to be done to control the idle mixture better.

In my strong opinion, the power valve is simply not needed, especially with the gobs of gas the accelerator pump juices it. Taming the accel pump circuit is one of my next mods to this carb.

 

[ekvh]

I read some info on doing the pump mods somewhere. Maybe the manual?

 

[dan filipi]

ekvh » 17 minutes ago[/url]":3dnx9t2i]
I read some info on doing the pump mods somewhere. Maybe the manual?

I don't think there is any, least I've never read anywhere about cutting the accel pump flow down.

 

[slabghost]

I believe the manual for some carbs have linkage adjustments to increase or decrease how much the accelerator pump puts out in a given cycle.

 

[Omega Man]

El-Anders your bike sounds great! I know nothing about carbs but your videos are very interesting to watch and you are very good at communicating your thoughts. They seem to make sense to me. I also really like your solution for the throttle cable, it looks like it was a stock set-up.

~O~

 

[joedrum]

the dft is a cheaper built 32-36 carb ...witch fuel pump and power power can adjusted ...not that this discounts the dft series as mine through mods work rather ....even idle gas jet has fixed air in its circuit ......sometime soon i hope to play with the 32-36 ive already de power valve ..adjustable or not ...dosnt matter when its not needed in strait carb set up like i like ...

 

[El-Anders]

joedrum » Wed Mar 11, 2015 8:51 pm[/url]":3khmr5pt]
el anders yes the whole idea that spring would make all perfect is rather wishful thinking ....taking the power valve out and turning the carb into a strait carb with no add ons ....brings everything to your control....on my mine even after that ..had to modify idle circuit on my motor...your bike ran ok it seemed but it is short of how mine runs ....in the total picture of things in my opinion ...the oldwing motor is wide range rpm motor ...on my bike the plugs are sort of on the dark brown side ...anytime after making it a strait carb if i improve plug color id also introduce lean pops as it couldnt get through the rpm 0 to redline smoothly so ..i went for what motor wanted and runs good ...and thats seems to be brown to dark brown range ...at this level my bike is not gassy smelling and runs clean ....

Yeah. I will plug the power valve as soon as I been riding around for a while, it runs good enough for just enjoying it for now. For me it's a beast to maneuver, but I know when I get used to it, I probably want more power.
Any videos of how yours is running? Being more and more curios about that. :BigGrin:

 

[El-Anders]

dan filipi » Thu Mar 12, 2015 9:20 am[/url]":15oj9u8e]
El anders, your video's are outstanding!
You have an AFR and I'm jealous, I've been wanting one for a long time.
You're readings here are telling us the true deal and imo an AFR is the only way to know what each change is doing, it certainly eliminates much of the guess work. Well done!

Pulling the spring had a true effect in the right direction.
Your bike sounds very good to me. You are the best judge being there feeling and hearing it.

I'm anxious to see what readings you get with the power valve plugged. I hope you do it.

Thanks!
The AFR was around $170. It was 2 years ago I bought it for work, but I never put it in a box. This carb project finally pushed me to buy a box from Fry's, and weld the bong on a piece of tubing. I think I got it cheaper from someone at Ebay, can't remember. I saw that Innovation wants around $210 now.
But as I said, the result was not as clear as I hoped. Im hocking it up to a car soon, and see what readings I get there.

 

[El-Anders]

Joe, sometimes I can't see the forest for all the trees. :doh: Your link is right there, on every post you have. I'm checking it out now.

 

[joedrum]

look at the one thats a 1:44 long its pretty much a burst through 3 gears then had to slow

it actually runs better than that vid now ...i was like a dog chasing it tail on this carb till i started getting a handle on it ...LOL

 

[El-Anders]

Hi all. Haven't been driving much, maybe 300 miles. All good. I want to fix a double throttle cable setup. The set up I have now has to much off an "on- off" effect when I'm driving really slow, or engine braking. I mounted a temporary spring that works against the carbs throttle spring around idle and maybe up to 2000 rpm. That help enough, so its ok to ride now. But sometimes the throttle hangs so idle is 2000 rpm because of this spring.

I toke it for premier tour for 2016 today. 48 Fahrenheit outside, and at that temp I really need some type of heated runners/ intake air, but not so bad that i couldn't ride it. Took 15 minutes before idle was ok, and was misfiring a bit now and then. Summer 2015 it run perfect in 80 - 100 F.

Changed the fork seals, and put a used fork "brace" stabilizer (what is it called?) Wow, what a difference, cant tell what did the most difference, probably the fact that I have oil in the fork now.

 

[Ansimp]

El-Anders » Sat Feb 06, 2016 9:29 am[/url]":xn65lcdm]
Hi all. Haven't been driving much, maybe 300 miles. All good. I want to fix a double throttle cable setup. The set up I have now has to much off an "on- off" effect when I'm driving really slow, or engine braking. I mounted a temporary spring that works against the carbs throttle spring around idle and maybe up to 2000 rpm. That help enough, so its ok to ride now. But sometimes the throttle hangs so idle is 2000 rpm because of this spring.

I toke it for premier tour for 2016 today. 48 Fahrenheit outside, and at that temp I really need some type of heated runners/ intake air, but not so bad that i couldn't ride it. Took 15 minutes before idle was ok, and was misfiring a bit now and then. Summer 2015 it run perfect in 80 - 100 F.

Changed the fork seals, and put a used fork "brace" stabilizer (what is it called?) Wow, what a difference, cant tell what did the most difference, probably the fact that I have oil in the fork now.

:good: :clapping: