manifold heating ...coolant

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107791#p107791:1s1hl5uy said:
HOTT » Sun Jan 19, 2014 7:00 pm[/url]":1s1hl5uy]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107672#p107672:1s1hl5uy said:
joedrum » Sat Jan 18, 2014 10:54 am[/url] ...me personally I don't use a thermostat and consistency is the game here ... :
Joe,
trying to visualize (read it twice, will wait for photos). When it comes to getting quick consistent heat the thermostat is your friend.
That tiny hole in the thermo & housing. will allow some coolant movement from the head when closed. The result is rapid rising
heat while the engine is still cold to the touch. Without the thermostat it takes much longer to get that good metal penetrating heat
from the coolant. Also no need to disc to restrict flow.

I use a very small heat tube and it will burn your fingers in very little time.

That is good to know about the heat tube. And good to hear your comment on there not being a need for a restrictor. Are you taking coolant off the back of the centre chamber and back to the T stat like we are thinking of doing?

Brian
 
well in the past I havnt used thermostat in my wings ... with this heat deal I may start using as it has control over the heat quickly so that may change ... yes I plan on tapping the end for the cross over water from heads ... all the water will go out here and up to the plenum ... the center will be plug and just pass that still in the smaller section before thermostat return back in ....so basically smaller section of center piece will have both taps ... and everything will operate just like stock ... with thermostat...id say :headscratch:
 
image.php

here is a pic of where im going to get the feed hopefully as big as it is now ...the cd laying underneath computer screan is the band I am going to be in :music:
image.php

this is where the center block off will be
image.php

this is where I plan to return too ..again hopefully as big the center is ...that's the rough plan ...there should be not much extra travel hoping it will come together good im really clueless at the moment on how I will do the type 4 to get base heat the way I want ..

after doing lots of looking into this icing issue ... it is rather multiple reasons why this is so much a problem now days as it wasn't so much back in the day ... but I am convince it needs addressing ... I wont go debating the issues why .. if it seems that this approach bring to much heat witch I don't think will happen ..it don't seem to hard to to lessen it ...as oppose needing more from a system that max out ....will see this will be good test ..
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107886#p107886:3myk9wt3 said:
sparrowhawkdesign » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:49 pm[/url]":3myk9wt3]
Joe

There is a picture of a manifold in the changing picture banner that looks to be plumbed the way you describe. Wonder where that one came from?
Good question.
I made that rotating banner a couple years ago at least, but all of those pics are in the gallery somewhere.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107663#p107663:w3rgtg65 said:
ekvh » Sat Jan 18, 2014 11:50 am[/url]":w3rgtg65]
Like this,

file.php
seems like something like this that eric posted would work ...I will have to check this out and see if I can find something close enough to ... might be able to file it in to fit ...

yes it seems this might be set up as the cc manifold ...well one thing is for sure I seen how well that work personally on windnwing bike ...he was not afraid to show that his single did extremely well
 
From what Hott said it sounds like you don't need a lot of flow through the plenum heater to warm it up enough for good running. I am thinking that for a thread about "heating the plenum", you should be going for the simplest, easiest method that still gets excellent results. The way I look at it is that the whole system is full of coolant and eventually the coolant temp will be hot in all areas as long as there is some flow.

How about just add 1/4" NPT threads and barbed fitting to end of centre chamber and return goes to fan switch hole. That is the simplest I can think of. See how that works. If not hot enough then the next step would be to run return down near pump. Etc, etc.

Just my $.02. I am sure putting all flow through plenum will give max heat.

Brian
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107889#p107889:3bn7y51m said:
dan filipi » Tue Jan 21, 2014 12:34 am[/url]":3bn7y51m]
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107886#p107886:3bn7y51m said:
sparrowhawkdesign » Mon Jan 20, 2014 7:49 pm[/url]":3bn7y51m]
Joe

There is a picture of a manifold in the changing picture banner that looks to be plumbed the way you describe. Wonder where that one came from?
Good question.
I made that rotating banner a couple years ago at least, but all of those pics are in the gallery somewhere.

Found it. CC Products. Three coolant fittings on manifold.
 
well it seems ...like what I am thinking is hard but I don't see any harder really ... but it would be easy to use those fitting as brian was saying ... if you did that ..you sure have you need to not block off the canter section fully with plug as brian has suggested also .. I feel that is probably ok and I am always considering that but I am still leaning to get full flow though manifold
 
canuckxxxx":yyi2hr32 said:
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=107791#p107791 said:
... Are you taking coolant off the back of the centre chamber and back to the T stat like we are thinking of doing?

Brian

I take off of the elbow atop the head and return to T-stat housing.
I also tried returning coolant past the T-stat. Pretty much the
same result.
From what Hott said it sounds like you don't need a lot of flow through the plenum heater to warm it up enough for good running.
It is a balance of flow (speed) and volume to stay ahead of the chilling.
I don't want to mislead anyone. My manifold is different and may have different requirements.
I'll must yield to the team working on this project.

HOTT
 
flow is a consideration ... full flow might be to much ... we will see ... I am not trying to say this is the only way to do it .. I have no clue yet of outcome .. its just what I am thinking of doing at this long moment ... of cabin fever time.....sheesh its cold
 
Found it. CC Products. Three coolant fittings on manifold.
Here's some photos of the plumbing on a CC I have.
Crossover tubes are removed, and hoses are clamped over the fittings.
Coolant from the heads goes into manifold L & R.
the 'T' valves are to bleed trapped air

CC.jpg

Coolant meets and exits at the center then (and this is the best part) returns
into the T-stat housing that has been cut and shaped to accept this hose. The square
U shape was included in the kit.

CC ll.jpg



HOTT
 
Awesome! No way could I figure out what the two small holes on top were for. I like it. Do you have a shot of the return into the thermostat housing? Joe. Am I right in assuming this is basically what you are trying to build?
 
yes ......this is what I am trying to do .....after reading all the info i could I can up with my own sound reasoning why icing is a big deal and will get bigger as the mangods keep making the gas weaker and and replacing the gas with water base products ....even the fuel injection cars are icing.... it why there putting injectors in the heads they wont ice there ....the gas of today will ice as soon as air introduced unless conditions are made to combat this ...the weber is great it is set up to where maximum size jets and air bleeds can be used to flow what ever crap they start forcing down our gas tanks ....and the full flow manifold heating I am hoping to cover for the guaranteed ignorance that will be called gas..

yes this set up is great hott posted as our member windnwing proved ...it is a great rig with yrs of no problems with it .....

also I watch a video of a bike being cold started at 0 degrees ....and no choke or heat added ...it was icing up in seconds and quit that how they do......I was shocked at the o-ring leaks I will not use them at all now ... I had already made my mind up that was not going to be me with leaking coolant in cold start situation ... im glad the video was made ... it was instant reversal on what I was thinking ... I thought it might be easy to use hose over head fitting as I have mentioned it before ....but it is for sure the way I will go now ... cant have such a crummy sealing system that wont work cold reliably ....

the only thing I am thinking now is how I might want to bypass this if I want to and set it up so I can..... :builder: :mrgreen:
 

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