mongruel getting a 86 1200 engine added to the bloodline

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well im beside myself to find out that 2 orings that fit the early 75-77 front calipers is going to cost 60 plus dollars ...what a disgusting rip off for couple dollars worth of parts .....im not sure who in the chain is gouging the huge rip off here ...but they can sure kiss my a!@#$%^&*()_)(*&^%$#@!bigtime .....sheeesh

on another hooch deal ...after considering all ideas for quite awhile ...ive got a new one on the driveshaft mod ...not really the best ...but maybe something i can afford ....the 1200 in the 77 frame ..theres a slight difference in where the output shaft is ...in relation to front and back ...the 1200 is closer to the rear wheel enough to keep the driveshaft from coming all the way off the out put shaft....so im thinking of milling the face of the end joint till it will seperate from the out put shaft like it sould ....when this happens ...there will be output shaft from 1200 motor expose to cut in a snap ring groove ...like the stock setup ....i never like the ideal of having 1100 around that had 1200 output shafts that wouldnt work in 1100 bikes ....

comments and discounts and questions all okay to make ...ive got real thick skin :smilie_happy: :mrgreen:
 
Just a thought Joe, and not being there to look at it......

So the 1200's don't use a snap ring. Why is that?
I imagine either the drive shaft is longer, the output shaft is longer, or the rear wheel won't drop as far so the shaft won't come off.

If the last, could the wheel be prevented somehow from dropping as far?

In off road we would use heavy tow straps to limit the downward travel for this very reason.
 
the other possibility is ...everything is fine as in being in the same spot and lenth of outputshaft ...cause i havnt measure really no point .....it could be and probably is the milling of the splines on the output shaft....as in length
 
Another thought....

I do have to remove the shocks to get the driveshaft off on my 1100.

Could it be the snap ring isn't really needed?
Does the driveshaft hub actually ever contact that snap ring when the shocks are on and full downward travel?
I would think not because that would mean Honda intended the snap ring to limit downward travel.
I don't think they would have designed it like that, too weak of a part to hold up.

I'm just throwing out ideas.
 
joedrum":36plivqg said:
hmmmmm am i wrong here sheeesh my memory tells me you can take the driveshaft off the ouput shaft on it wheels .... my memory ....like i have one :headscratch:
I could be wrong since all the times I had the engine out I never checked that. Would be worth checking, might save you a lot of hassle.
 
I can only speak of my 1 time of removing the engine, but my driveshaft DID come all the way back, off of the outputshaft of the trans, with the rear suspension all connected. I remember having to wrestle a little getting the shaft back onto the output shaft upon reassembly.(after the engine was in place, and bolted up)
 
dan filipi":1f915klj said:
So what is different then on a 1200 not needing the clip?
Are we sure the 1200 doesn't need a clip? :headscratch:

I am confused then as to how the 1200 shaft is installed and held in place. I assumed (like the 1100) you have to slide the shaft back to remove the engine. If it moves forward or backward, I would also assume that is not a good thing while riding hence the reason for a clip?
 
Haven't pulled my final drive out yet but the Haynes manual says unbolt the swingarm, shocks and pull back separating the shaft and boot from the output shaft. No mention of any clip involved. The universal joint is directional and stamped with an "F" on the long end an goes towards the engine. Almost hated referencing a manuel since I am currently at odds with contradictory information on carbs in all of them at the moment.
 
Part number 6 on this 1200 diagram calls out a circlip? (Same as my 1100)

image.php
 
NEVER MIND!! I am an idiot! :doh: :Doh2: :rtfm:

The 1200 shaft circlip is on the backside of the U-joint with a spring on the shaft holding the U-joint in tight (NOT LIKE MY 1100). :oops:

image.php
 
well im guessing there is a slight difference in length .....i might go this route .....as it seems all in house ...as in deal with the parts that cpme with the motor and not miss up a 1100 mortor by robbing its out put shaft
 
AApple":62fw7spb said:
I can only speak of my 1 time of removing the engine, but my driveshaft DID come all the way back, off of the outputshaft of the trans, with the rear suspension all connected. I remember having to wrestle a little getting the shaft back onto the output shaft upon reassembly.(after the engine was in place, and bolted up)
Same here on the aspy & done it on two different engines, yeap little struggle to get back on :yes:
 
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