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Fried ballast resistor will cook a coil in short order! :builder: Check voltage coming out to see how much is going to the coil. :headscratch:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=161459#p161459:1zh5fnkt said:
dan filipi » Sat Oct 17, 2015 10:22 am[/url]":1zh5fnkt]
I have yet to find this ballist resistor bypass during start on the 1100.. None of the wiring diagrams indicate this is so.
Just looked again and I stand corrected. Not on the diagrams.
 
The resistor shows only 0.3-0.5 ohms from the plug that connects to the wiring harness to the connector that goes on the coils, and the black wire going to the coil terminal shows 12.5v while running. From what I just read about GL1000 resistors I'm guessing that means I've found another problem (that will shortly be replaced by the C5).
I had assumed the yellow and blue were the hot and the black was the ground and the ceramic block was just part of the mounting. When I previously attempted to swap out the wires feeding the coils I only swapped the yellow and blue. I also didn't really pay attention to how worn the insulation on the black wires were (the insulation on the yellow and blue was fine) since I thought it was the ground anyway.

So to backtrack to the initial problem of raindead:
That black wire is cloth-wound, and the cloth is rather worn. That wire also passes right under the frame of the motorcycle (a grounding point) to get from the resistor to the left coil, and again to get from the left coil to the right. The wire going from the left coil to the right coil is in the front of the assembly, where it would get wet first (no fairing, btw) and the right coil (the front cylinders) are the ones that cut out first. Cloth insulation that would retain water seems like a poor choice for this particular application. This may have been my gremlin all along and I just looked right past it.

Ah, well...it's going to get removed in a few weeks anyway.
 

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