Some plans- try what you like

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You may be right but I already have coppercoat. Gasket material is another variable. The stuff I linked to above is also available in 1/64 thickness. I chose 1/32". And there are several others of similar type that may be as good or better choices. Gotta start somewhere I guess.
 
V, how are you going to address the fire ring around the cylinder bore?
 
I don't see the fire ring as a must have. I am considering strongly making the bore opening a bit smaller on the aluminum portion. Then enlarge the opening running a steel rod against the inside edge in a stirring motion. I'm thinking this will thicken the edge enough to act as a compression/ fire ring. I am also considering using steel foil to make the rings if the other method fails.
 
I think you need a fire ring or else the gasket material will be destroyed by the combustion.

What if you just used coolant resistant gasket material (no aluminum sheet) that covered the whole head surface but only went to the water jacket opening at the tops of the cylinders. So there would be no gasket where the water jacket is. Then have a soft copper ring that went on top of the cylinder...you could glue it in place for assembly. It would the same thickness or maybe slightly thicker than the gasket material. You would have to experiment on the gasket thickness vs the copper ring thickness so that the gasket and the ring compressed down good when the head is torqued down.

For the ring you could use a piece of #14 copper wire that is formed into a ring and the ends soldered together. I think copper wire is pretty soft. You could try making a pair and putting them in place and torquing the head down and see if they flatten out.

Just my $.02
 
Try this. Pinch a piece of a cereal box card board in the jaws of vice grips. Use a propane torch and try to burn the pinched cardboard. Do not heat the grips above 400 degrees. Motors will not usually exceed 350 degrees. Even readily flammable material will not burn pinched tightly between two pieces of metal. The metal dissipates the heat away.

edit- solder is also subject to the heat of combustion and the heat drawn by the copper may actually soften the solder.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=190153#p190153:298rl6un said:
canuckxxxx » Thu May 04, 2017 2:08 pm[/url]":298rl6un]
I think you need a fire ring or else the gasket material will be destroyed by the combustion.

What if you just used coolant resistant gasket material (no aluminum sheet) that covered the whole head surface but only went to the water jacket opening at the tops of the cylinders. So there would be no gasket where the water jacket is. Then have a soft copper ring that went on top of the cylinder...you could glue it in place for assembly. It would the same thickness or maybe slightly thicker than the gasket material. You would have to experiment on the gasket thickness vs the copper ring thickness so that the gasket and the ring compressed down good when the head is torqued down.

For the ring you could use a piece of #14 copper wire that is formed into a ring and the ends soldered together. I think copper wire is pretty soft. You could try making a pair and putting them in place and torquing the head down and see if they flatten out.

Just my $.02

[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dqSiNXZhbg[/video]
 
Just noticed that an aluminum drink can is large enough to provide material for a fire ring. Time to make the form tools.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=190151#p190151:2lp7hjob said:
AApple » Thu May 04, 2017 12:27 pm[/url]":2lp7hjob]
V, how are you going to address the fire ring around the cylinder bore?

After giving it a little more thought. I plan to use aluminum from drink cans to make fire rings. :BigGrin:
 
Mother of invention, or making do with what you have. :good: Hope that it works, would be a GREAT money saver. :yes:
 
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