Tips on installing a fuel pump?

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Here's what I found out brainstorming tonight.

Fuel pump, part# 16700-371-014 is standard for 75 thru 83 1000's & 1100's.

And some thoughts on the matter. Still waiting to hear of course from sellers about 76 pump cam length.

What if, I drilled and tapped a 1/4 NPT thread into the flat back of the tach drive part, just enough to get something in there to lift that sucker into place?
Can't be any worse than doing the same to the coolant elbows to get heat to a SCC manifold.

Or, what if...... I just replaced that cam with the 82 cam I just happen to have hanging around??????????
I have to leave the 75 in the left side to accommodate the C5 on the head.

Very interested to find out what the sellers come back with! BUT.

The whole bike has, (along with this entire country) always been an experiment!
 
New (40 year old) camshaft arrived, $29 total, marked R2, and I'm on the downhill stretch.

I've always been able to turn that right cam by hand before, but not this time.

Had to enlist my good friend Bob to make me a 2 x 4 with some lag bolts screwed into it, to get it done.

New fuel pump arrives next week!
 
Good news and bad news!

Can't believe that I never saw this before, I've been turning these cams in my hand for years now and often thought, Why can't I feel a lobe on this fuel pump cam?

Well that would be because dumb-ass here never noticed it was offset rather than lobed.

So now I've figured that part out the new fuel pump went on like a charm!
 
Well, I should have took a lot more notice on why that cam wheel was hard to turn and why I needed the 2x4 with the lag bolts in it.

I turned it over by hand 3 times, then ran it with the kill switch off for about 20 seconds before I ran it for about 15 seconds hot.

And then the belt gave way, stripped off 9 belt teeth and locked up the engine, that's where I'm at now.

Compression tester on its way from LA. More to follow!!
 
Well here's what I know so far...

As soon as I released the right cam carrier, the motor freed right up, don't know about bent valves yet, I guess I'll find that out when the compression tester gets here.

See photos, there are some marks on the front camshaft journal and corresponding marks on the two halves that accept it, (the carrier and the head.)

Now here's the weird thing, these marks are smooth! Nothing to indicate that anything got caught up and stopped it that way, no metal shavings either. I remember torquing the carrier bolts to what I consider a very risky 15 ft/lbs (20 in the book, but I've had them strip doing that), there was plenty of oil on the whole thing too.

I really don't see though how one tight journal is gonna make the belt jump teeth, but maybe I need to start thinking about taking a thou or two off that camshaft journal.

Your thoughts guys.
 

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Any chance you got the caps mixed up or the journals offset a bit? I'd polish the damage with crocus cloth fine and check for one of the other caps being a little loose fitting when tightened down.
 
Okay, Y'all know this is an ongoing thing, so here's a new development in the saga!

I bought a new cam for the right side, made sure it was a R2 which I thought meant revision 2, as in 1976, exact same as the 75 but with a longer offset fuel pump cam.

so here it is, and check this out!

R2 cams 2 007.jpg


What do you think of that?

The one on the top in the top pic is the bad one that stopped up the motor, the one on the bottom of the second pic is it, also!
 

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A close up pic of the 1000 cam I have to show where the pump contacted....
This cam does have the R2 marking.

image.php


I was running an 1100 pump on it so maybe that's why it rode so close to the edge?
 
As previously stated, the fuel pump, part# 16700-371-014 is standard for 75 thru 83. 1000's & 1100's.

So your pump riding on the edge of the cam is normal, and very serviceable.

I believe I have learned valuable lessons from this experience as well as from this thread.

1. That the fuel pump cam is not lobed, but offset, and that I need to be more observational of these things.

2. That I need to use this stuff when assembling engine parts.
 

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