[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=112021#p112021:vqiexei1 said:
Omega Man » Sat Mar 08, 2014 12:42 pm[/url]":vqiexei1]
Does the output of the ignition system keep up with a plug like those?
Yes. There is write up on them. They have built in resistors so you don't need to run the stock plug boots. An suppose to eliminate engine noise in the radio. There was a special plug that was used in the 69/77 model's there is NOS available for true restorations. 78/79 an so on used a different plug all together from what I'e read. The new style plugs range from 7.00 and up to 11.99 a peace.. :laptop: :heat:
The Honda-specified spark plug for the GL1000 is the NGK D8EA plug. However, when the first GL1000s were introduced, the specified plug was NGK D8ES-L. The “S” designation indicates that it was a “special” design and the “-L” designation means the heat range is a half step “cooler” than the norm for D8EA plugs.
Honda recommended the D8ES-L for all of the 750/4’s from 1969 through 1977, the CB350F, CB400F and the GL1000 through 1977 were also included. Other Japanese manufacturers used them as well.
If you are doing a concours-level restoration, you may be interested in this. They are the absolute “correct” spark plug for early GL1000s (and many other vintage Hondas beyond the ones listed above).
Important Resistance Issues:
There should always be some resistance in the high-voltage, secondary side of the coil circuits (spark plug wire side): either a resistor plug, a resistor spark plug cap, or resistor spark plug wires.
You always need at least one of these elements. Otherwise, the coil discharge will be too rapid, resulting in shorter, less useful spark. This will also risk overheating the coils and reduce their life expectancy.
Using any two of these forms of resistance is probably OK if you are overly concerned about radio static and interference, but you should avoid using all three forms of resistance at once. That will hurt performance…especially at higher rpms.
For example: the ( NGK DR8EIX ) iridium plug (recommended) for the GL1000 is indeed a resistor plug (hence the “R” in the code). If you run this plug, you should pair it with aftermarket ignition wires / caps of the nonresistance type. Or, if you stick with the OEM wires and NGK caps, you should probably eliminate the removable resistor in the cap. You can replace the resistors in the caps with (brass) screws..
OD as the resistor – about 5mm (SAE-sized #10-24 or #10-32 brass machine screws also have the right diameter and are available at any hardware store). Then, cut sections of these brass machine screws to the same length as the resistor you are removing (about 18mm). This makes an excellent resistor substitute and you don’t have to worry about the interaction of dissimilar metals.
Just got the shipping confirmation from Z-1enterprise. Looking forward to that. Wanted to get a new ignition but ran out of money. So I will run my old Dyna for now. Now that I know the coils were bad. If I run the points set up I will need to get the 3.Ohms ballast from HondaMan. Checking on the plug gap for these new style iridium plugs.
opcorn:
