Vacuum advance and pluse generator (VACUUM ADVANCE REBUILD)

Classic Goldwings

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dan filipi":3b50rr0b said:
If it's running smooth with no or little ping under load, run with it.

Doesn't seem to be any. I think were good. Now if this midwest weather would figure out what it wants to do.
 
Hello guy's, an update on my rebuild, I must have done some right because when I tested it with my mitty vac hand pump thingy, it was exactly right and still holding a vacuum as planned...
 
I just swapped out my ignition with a tested good one from the salvage yard.
fired her up with the new one installed.... huge difference !
the new one actually moves when under a load.
the old one leaked so bad I could hear it whistle when I put a vacuum on it..
the new modual held about half advance for 6hrs. figure thats an improvement :D

sorry I didnt take pictures... the garage is pretty dark and I really wanted to get her finished...
its a big process of removing the rear suspension, but not as bad as I originally thought it would be..
the brake lines broke free and the pivot bolts arent too bad to remove.. but the locknut gave me fits.
70+ ft.lbs. you need a pretty good socket to get this thing loose.
for future refence. and anyone that might be thinking of doing this ... the socket is 1 1/2 OD. and has 4 equal spaced square teeth.
I'm sure that these can be purchased but I tryed building a couple out of pipe... it needs to be heavy wall pipe, or you'll just rip the teeth off.
 
That's fantastic news, I am large too, and even with my wife one the back this bike flies, it feels like we are going to pop a wheelie ha ha, and someone said to block it off..I don't know about that...I made a socket for that locknut you are referring to Jim, here's a photo of it for next time, makes the job much simpler. , I found you really don't need the notched out section , all you need to do is mark the poistion of the allen set bolt while tightening it and make sure it doesn't move, they don't , mark it with a marker. 28mm impact socket...27 will work too, I used a dremel with one of those heavy duty wheels to cut this out, used painters tape around the end to lay it all out to fit perfectly..Hope this helps someone..If anyone has a bad or damaged vacuum advanced cansiter I would love to take it off your hands just for the parts..This socket simplies the torque wrench process..
 
Vacuum advance is doing great still. Hey guy's I found one that looks a lot like the original canister for a 4 cylinder vehicle too, might not have to open it up, I wonder if that diaphragm would fit the oem canister because if you could use the oem canister you could make your adjustment settings to the spring...It cost like hell but it would be neat to see if it worked..here's a photo...https://www.ebay.com/itm/SMP-STANDARD-VC ... es&vxp=mtr :good:
 
Well. thanx to littlebeaver, I went ahead and repaired mine.
Since I had the motor out, waiting for gaskets, and was having some serious detonation noise before, I thought it would be kinda stupid not to check my advance. The mechanical advance was free to move. But the vacuum advance would pull, then release immediately because it wouldn't hold vacuum. So...apart it comes - since the leg work is all laid out in front of me right here by littlebeaver. So, here's the way I did it.

After wiping the sludge off and cleaning up a bit, I used a dremmel to cut slots all the way around, then pry up the tangs with a screw driver. I have actually destroyed rubber diaphrams by cleaning such a part with carb cleaner, so this time I used water and dish soap to clean everything up.
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Here are the pieces disassembled. The only thing I've cleaned so far in this picture is the diaphram. I cleaned the aluminum ignition housing before I ever took anything apart.
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With the diaphram clean and dry, the two holes were obvious.
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A dab of silicon in the inside and outside of the holes, then set out in the sun to dry while I eat some lunch and look at my pictures so far.
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If I align my cut marks, then the vacuum nipple will be properly oriented going back together.
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Here she is, assembled and holding vacuum. I laid a thin film of silicon around the edge of the diaphragm on the vacuum side just in case it needed help to reseal. I used small vice grips to bend the tangs back over, then went back around with the vice grips and gave them all a good crimp. I finished off by putting more silicone around all my cuts, although I doubt it's really needed.
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Would have been nice to use a new diaphram, but I don't have one. I'll just have to see how far this one goes.
Hope the pictures helped.
 
Ron good deal man, 9 out of 10 of the canister's I have opened up had holes in them.. Some think that it doesn't make any difference or you won't notice a change, well, I noticed a change in how my engine performed, having holes in there like that and just leaving it alone is the same thing as having a vacuum leak, once repaired you will see or feel a change..My auto one is still working fine, I tested it not that long ago...Glad you got it repaired...I didn't know a thing about the unit before I started mess with it, now I'm just happy as can be that it's fixed and functioning as it should.. :clapping: Oh and for those guy's that think they do have a leak, maybe it would be best to block it off at number three carb like Randakks guy talks about because if you do that you at least won't have a vauum leak going into #3,, so yes it makes sense to block it off, makes better sense to repair it, just saying.. :Egyptian: :clapping:
 
I wonder how long the silicon patch will last? I wonder what would be better to use? I wonder if some kind of vulcanizing patch would be any better? I just remembered, I have a little bit of annerobic silicon left. Probably shoulda used that.
 
A replacment diaphragm of the same type would be nice too..Too bad they don't make those like that anymore, I quit my research one I made that one work, but I'm willing to bet that someone could find a diaphragm replacement out of another auto type canister somewhere to fit the goldwing canister..Just gotta find it is all...
 
Joe,
your headless bolt is one I've seen many times on euro cars. Orinally it came with a hex head. As you tighten it, when the head of the bolt twists off, that's the proper torque, also rendering the bolt tamper proof. Sometimes you can chisle the head off, and other times you can cut yourself a screwdriver slot like in this picture. Depending on what you have room for. Might be a tight squeeze with the motor still in the bike? I had the unit off in my hand when I cut my slot with a dremmel.
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:head bang: Mine is leaking super bad. Vacuum gauge won't even move there is so little resistance! Oh well back to the drawing board. :head bang: :head bang:
 
slabghost":mvk12ro2 said:
:head bang: Mine is leaking super bad. Vacuum gauge won't even move there is so little resistance! Oh well back to the drawing board. :head bang: :head bang:
If that is the case, the first thing I would do is block off the carb at the pipe on number 3.... Man your carb is sucking air big time..It's really no different than a vacuum leak..this is until you repair your advance is all I'm saying ...
 

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