1980 GL1100 blown head gasket Again! Fixed!

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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144726#p144726:157u2jyr said:
slabghost » Mon Mar 30, 2015 4:00 pm[/url]":157u2jyr]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144661#p144661:157u2jyr said:
5150jim » Sun Mar 29, 2015 10:16 pm[/url]":157u2jyr]
Well I got the last ones on Amazon & I got Athena P400210600976 Top End Gaskets Kit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GV ... UTF8&psc=1
So how do I know if they know. It says CHECK TO SEE IF IT FITS but there is no GL1000 made in 1980 so maybe they are just using the same gasket set for both GL1000 & GL1100.
Okay I'm editing this because I just check under another browser & clicked on Athena P400210600976 Top End Gaskets Kit & tired 1976 GL1000 & it said This does not fit your:
1976 Honda GL1000 Gold Wing
Okay I'm confused. The title of this thread is for 1100 head gasket. Now you are saying it doesn't fit the 76. So what are we working with here? An 80 motor in a 76? A 76 motor in an 80? Or the 76 1000? :headscratch:


Sorry, but yes I have a 80 GL1100 now, but I had a 76 GL1000 so I was just using that as a yr to see if Amazon's parts cross-ref would say the gasket would fit both bikes because someone said that they may have package & sold the same part for both bikes.
 
BORE size on the 1000 is smaller than the 1100. SOME gasket kits come with only the 1000 gaskets, even if you ordered for an 1100. They fit both fit, and bolt on, but using the incorrect gasket either way can cause leakage, and gasket burn-out.
Here's a comparo on the gaskets I got for my 1100.....the gaskets in the kit I bought were actually for the 1000 engine. I had to buy 1100 gaskets from someone else after the fact. :rant:


:good:
 
I agree with AApple, I would be sceptical of any budget gaskets size regardless of what they say, Take it to a Honda dealer and compare with the original or a Vesrah.
 
AApple":15nv9xjx said:
BORE size on the 1000 is smaller than the 1100. SOME gasket kits come with only the 1000 gaskets, even if you ordered for an 1100. They fit both fit, and bolt on, but using the incorrect gasket either way can cause leakage, and gasket burn-out.
Here's a comparo on the gaskets I got for my 1100.....the gaskets in the kit I bought were actually for the 1000 engine. I had to buy 1100 gaskets from someone else after the fact. :rant:


:good:

Thank you guys for the heads up & I ordered a head gasket from my local Honda shop. I'll compare it to the one I got on-line & maybe that is my problem. I'll keep you posted.
TNX again, Jim
 
I called the local Honda shop & they said I bought both of the head gaskets they had in stock. I got one in April & the other one in June of 2014 both OEM head gaskets and they both blew.

I took pictures & as you can see it always blows in the middle (between the cylinders) over the open water jacket. But I also got so pic of the head gasket on the block & the gasket is not perfect on it. In the last pic I don’t know if you can see but it’s closer on the top than on the bottom. I hope somebody can give some info as to why this is happening. :thanks:
 

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ok ..the way they make the gaskets there stamped dimpled core and goo covered ..with v rings around the piston opening ... your motor is getting hot there between the clylinder enough to melt the goo ...you can see it missing ...when this happens the rings around the piston relaxes to and goo come out rigtht there also and it blows the gasket ...

your bike needs to be running cooler is what i think ....these type gaskets are the worse in hot spots ..best to get the bike running much cooler ...is what i think ....didnt really see any thing wrong but the gasket
 
Another possible clue is whats on the left piston, is that pre detonation? That will kill a head gasket pretty fast. Is the head milled?Timing too far advanced?
Maybe should google it and look for a cause, in the extreme it will burn a hole through your piston.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Engine_knocking
By the way Joe`s right about the heat and Pre detonation will cause allot of heat.
 
Question, when riding do you operate in the low RPM's a lot (below 3000 RPM)? Do you accelerate a lot from low RPM's and lug the engine? Lastly, do you hear pinging when you accelerate?
 
I guess I should have re read the post, you did have the head milled, If they took a bunch off it will increase the compression on that side causing detonation, Besides if they do get cut down(enough to raise compression) it should be done in pairs.
I`m thinking a good used head is all you need, If the other side hasn't been cut down..both heads if you milled both heads.
Check the cylinder top edge for heat damage, If it is smooth heads/gaskets will seal.
If they took only enough to flatten it you`r probably good but check the timing for too far advanced.
 
I keep seeing this....
The dang gasket isn't centered over the cylinder bore, for whatever reason. In the area that has been leaking(3:30 o'clock), the fire ring is just barely being supported by the cylinder liner....there is too much of the fire ring OUTSIDE of the liner, imo, and what is left is not enough to hold compression on that cylinder, so it blows it out. I've looked at pics I took when I did my head gaskets, and all 4 of mine had a nice, even impression on the gaskets and the cylinders...as in, CENTERED, not off-set to one side.
Something stinks in Denmark...either the gaskets are not made properly, or the dadburn cylinder liner has moved off-center somehow.... :headscratch:
 
I called American Honda Motor Co., Inc. (Motorcycle Division) in Torrance, CA today (Telephone in case anyone needs it (866) 784-1870)) & I ask if they know of this problem. He put me on hold & talked to the tech but nobody had any idea. But he asked me who gaskets I was using & I told him Athena Top End Gaskets Kit. He did say that they are reputable & have been around for a couple of yrs.
Okay, back to the dilemma, I should have an OEM head gasket on Wed & I also ordered 2 new dowel pins for alignment of the head since mine are scored from someone taking them out. Next I’ll check the head bolt to see if they are the same size.
As for overheating, or even getting hot, it doesn’t. As far as I can tell it stays below the mid portion of the gauge most all the time. Also how would I even go about lowering the temp?
As for pinging, I haven't noticed any.
And I don’t think I can change the timing since it is a CDI system.
As for lugging the engine, well lets say I don’t ride like I should for my age. I’m 65 but I have raced some of the kids in town off the line.
Also when they milled the head they took off as little as possible but they did say they found an anomaly around the firing ring.
Jim
 
Sounds good, What we mean by excessive heat is the combustion not the engine temp, it can become quit hot in one place and not affect the overall temperature. You do have some strange deposits on top the piston and not the uniform combustion I am used to seeing but I am new to wings, not motors but GL`s. I think the timing can still be adjusted even though it is buried.
I hope your next gasket holds, things like this cause many people to give up but it has to be something, hang in there.
 
Just make sure you are straight edging the block and head to eliminate any warpage problems causing the head and block to have excess clearance.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144924#p144924:33766pgk said:
zman » Fri Apr 03, 2015 4:23 pm[/url]":33766pgk]
Sounds good, What we mean by excessive heat is the combustion not the engine temp, it can become quit hot in one place and not affect the overall temperature. You do have some strange deposits on top the piston and not the uniform combustion I am used to seeing but I am new to wings, not motors but GL`s. I think the timing can still be adjusted even though it is buried.
I hope your next gasket holds, things like this cause many people to give up but it has to be something, hang in there.

The spot on the top of the piston was something sticky like anti-freeze because it wiped off with my finger.

Now I have checked the cylinders for out of round & distance from the block (front & back) & the distance between them & all is good there but I have one more test to do.
Jim
 

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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=144940#p144940:28c4tx2h said:
Ansimp » Fri Apr 03, 2015 9:00 pm[/url]":28c4tx2h]
Just make sure you are straight edging the block and head to eliminate any warpage problems causing the head and block to have excess clearance.

A friend measured the head bolts & they are correct according to Honda. 2 are 115mm & 4 are 90mm. I got a Schneeberger R6250 Linear Rail from him & put Sharpie on the block & firing rings & slid the Linear Rail over the surface & it took the black off the block but never touched the firing rings the 1st time, so I did it again & it still hasn’t removed much.
It looks like I'm going to have to split the case & take the right side in to have it milled.
 

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Personally I'd try to machine it by hand with the biggest file i could find checking it with the linear edge. Machine shop can easily be wrong too.
 
I wonder if you could sticky glue 2 pieces of fine emery paper to a plate glass something like an end table glass and carefully evenly take down enough aluminum by rubbing the plate over the head surface of the block.
Channeling Burt Munro here I think.
 
it can be done by hand ...but you best be on your game ....i find personally ..that the hands are much more accurate than machines ....it dosn't make sense to me to take apart a good lower end motor for a milling down job ...on motor you cant buy parts for ....
 
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