86 GL1200 Refresh and Mod project

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As long as you correctly torque the crank bolt it all should be good. Marking the position is great advice and the only way the bolt would come loose is if the alloy pulley crushes under the bolt.
 
Yes it's all good advise, that's why I throw these things out there. I think the more brains involved in this stuff, the better the outcome on the unknowns. My point is that the crank pulley is not a close tolerance fit, it slides on and off easily. If the key shears off, the only thing keeping the crank pulley from spinning is the crank bolt torque, there is not and interlock of any type between the two crank pulleys because of the signal washer which triggers the pulse generators on the 85 and up 1200 engines. Say the key shears off and the front crank pulley spins on the crank, then the valves would be slammed by the pistons on cylinders 1 & 3 and we all know what that will do, and think what damage if would do if it happen under load or high rpm. That's where my mind is right now.
 
then put a dot of paint or nail polish on the head of the bolt to see if it moves ever. I really doubt the alternator would ever create enough load to ever move it if there were no key.
 
I'm one of those that has to know how and why things are designed and work the way they do, so I tend to work myself into a frenzy over even small things like this crank pulley. :Awe: Promise, last post on this subject. #1. The key in the front crank pulley is machined into the pulley and is not removable on the 1200. Like I say I don't know about the other flat fours. So the question is which way is it suppose to be on the crankshaft, key towards the front of the motor or key facing the front wheel. I can't find anything from Honda that solves that mystery. :shock: It would make more sense if the key were towards the engine so 100% of it would be in the keyway. I've torn down two, found one each way, so it's a 50/50 deal at the moment. After some careful measuring, with the key facing the front wheel, 75% of the key is in the keyway leaving only 1/8 inch protruding which is exactly what the external alternator pulley requires to mate up. So after all this, I'm confident that there should be no problem with shear off. :beg: :mrgreen: Now upward and onward to something else. If anyone happens to find out which way they came from the factory I'd appreciate it if you would let me know. Thanks.
 
I would bet it's 50/50 like you say since there's never any reason to remove the crank bolt and pullies by prior owners unless replacing the crank seal, which is rare.

Just make sure the male and female threads are oil free and use blue loc-tite when assembling.
I've had mine off and on several times and find the loc-tite makes a good filler for any kind of gaps in the threads and pulley mating as it spreads out when putting the bolt in.
I torque the bolt with an impact. Probably get around 60 lbs. torque on it.
 
Worked on the carbs today, after testing the first time with a gravity tank, I had two overflowing and a bowl leaking. :Awe: This was a couple weeks ago. Went into them again last week, reset the floats, forgot about the bowl gasket leaking. Same results. :head bang: :head bang: So I got to ciphering this float setting deal and ordered some bowl gaskets. While waiting on the gaskets I took all my ciphering, you know that Jethro Bodine thing, naught times naught is naught and did it like this. I laid the carb rack flat on it's back and having figured out that the push spring in the needle travels 3mm, I set the tallest side of the slightly twisted cheap ass plastic floats to 4.5 mm above the flange surface. I deducted that the tallest portion of the float would rise first when the bowl was filling. I turned the rack up the normal way to set the floats and measured them and they were dead on at 7.5 mm. After I installed the the bowl gaskets I did the gravity test again. No overflowing carbs and no leaking bowls, ahh, things are looking up :good: Now for the true test to see if this method works. In my studies on these carbs, I learned that the float bowls should be holding 1 and 1/2 ounces of fuel if the floats are set right. I shut off the fuel supply, and individually drained each bowl with the drain screw into a premarked clear plastic peanut butter jar, (I don't require fancy tools, :Egyptian: ) and low and behold, each bowl held 1 and 1/2 ounces of gas. Works for me. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 
Finally got around to ordering my new tires last week and got them in yesterday.
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Installed the carb rack today and the new oem fuel pump, new fuel lines, filter. Fuel tank is clean as a new one, I love that ATF. No rust and this thing has been sitting since June 2012. Tomorrow is on to finishing up the cooling system by making the extensions for moving the radiator forward and getting all that hooked up. It is proceeding slowly but, I'm slow so, just saying. :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 

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Great to see that you finally have your tires Mike. Steve has received the set for Dads 82 and once again I am pleased with the service from American Moto Tires. :good:
 
Yeah, that's who I got these from, five days from order to delivery, no hassles at all and with tracking #'s. Fresh tires too, date codes are 0213. I got sidetracked for a few weeks and just now getting back to working on her.
 
Got sidetracked off the alternator brackets & back onto carbs. I noticed a clicking in my throttle grip and a lot of slack in the decelerate cable down on the carbs. I tried to adjust the slack out to no avail. Took the throttle grip apart and sure enough, cable rusted into about 12 inches down. I had a bunch of new automotive throttle return springs so I fashioned one of them to work until I get around to ordering a new set of cables. Since I had the grip off, I decided to put the new to me foam padded grips
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on and had to use a commercial heat gun to remove the left hand original OEM grip. That's some tuff glue to be 27 years old. It's so tuff I just heated the handle bar back up with the old glue on it and slid the new grip on, waited a couple minutes for it to cool and I don't think you could blow it off there with dynamite. Spent what was left of the day taking some parts off one of the 85's that I'm using to dress up the 86. Also installed a throttle lock for cruising down the four lane. I'm also going to install this windshield and see how I like it. It's a little shorter, squarer faced and has the wrap around sides.
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[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=82200#p82200:1ynpwxra said:
backlander » Fri May 24, 2013 8:59 pm[/url]":1ynpwxra]Got sidetracked off the alternator brackets & back onto carbs. I noticed a clicking in my throttle grip and a lot of slack in the decelerate cable down on the carbs. I tried to adjust the slack out to no avail. Took the throttle grip apart and sure enough, cable rusted into about 12 inches down. I had a bunch of new automotive throttle return springs so I fashioned one of them to work until I get around to ordering a new set of cables. Since I had the grip off, I decided to put the new to me foam padded gripsView attachment 1 on and had to use a commercial heat gun to remove the left hand original OEM grip. That's some tuff glue to be 27 years old. It's so tuff I just heated the handle bar back up with the old glue on it and slid the new grip on, waited a couple minutes for it to cool and I don't think you could blow it off there with dynamite. Spent what was left of the day taking some parts off one of the 85's that I'm using to dress up the 86. Also installed a throttle lock for cruising down the four lane. I'm also going to install this windshield and see how I like it. It's a little shorter, squarer faced and has the wrap around sides.
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I like tall windshields :rocks:
 
Pretty good work week in Wingville on the 86 project. New tires mounted, 3 day leakdown test passed, Counteract balancing beads installed, shiney parts of wheels polished, still have to clean up painted part of wheel, bearings checked along with seals, front rotor gaskets made and installed, rotors remounted and torqued.
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Refreshed two sets of front calipers and one rear caliper and installed new pads. Cleaned up new to me rear bumper and hitch
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, drivers backrest, chrome front brake master and clutch master cylinder covers, floorboards, heel/toe shifter, forward crash bar mounted floorboards. Tore down all lights and polished lens inside and out and replaced with new bulbs. Removed and modified main fairing mount to accept weld on tab for the upper external alternator mount
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, rough made the bottom alternator mount, it's now ready for final cutting and finishing. Still have to finish up the radiator mods, mount it and crank the engine, sync and adjust carbs, then it's time to reassemble all these parts and empty three rooms in my house that they now occupy. :mrgreen: :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy:
 

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