Alternative alternator location, maybe.

[danf]

I feel strange messing with radiator and timing belts and in the end the alt is hanging out the side up front. I am overly cautious and do not want road debris and water splashing up on it. Also I would like it to look like I do not have one. I also love a challenge.

Yes, I do too... I wish you the best in you idea..I really hope it works...Might be easier too, now get it man ...Go do it..I'll buy the first beer if you get it done..

 

[ekvh]

Front would be better for cooling. Removing the non-functioning stator would save a little weight.

 

[mortiki]

OE stator is non-vented and attached to the motor directly. A new one here would have vents and be seperated from direct motor contact so heat should be improved.

Another problem I have with front mount is balance of crank. Timing belt counter each other on the crank but adding another load to one side may unbalance it. Removing old stator and installing this will keep same balance overall. The removal of the stator would save weight but also a little load off motor. This would be a parasitic load from a non-functional stator.

 

[dan filipi]

Another problem I have with front mount is balance of crank. Timing belt counter each other on the crank but adding another load to one side may unbalance it.

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance.
Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley.

 

[danf]

I am not an electrical buff by no means, I have a question about these exterior mounted alternators though, Does rain affect them..?

 

[dan filipi]

They can rust inside just like anything else but run regularly they seem to be un bothered by rain.
Mine is behind the left fairing lower. It has gotten wet but not much. We don't get much rain here.

 

[danf]

maybe some kinda rain shield should be considered for the traveling man...

 

[mortiki]

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance.
Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley.[/quote]


The timing belts pull the crank in opposite directions. Adding another pulley pulls in only one direction. I know its not a lot but I want mine to last another 30 years. Even the one made into the cover puts an extra load to one side.

 

[danf]

Not so because the front alternator uses a pulley on the crank, there is no left or right side imbalance.
Even the kit that has an alternator bolted to a custom belt cover uses a separate crank pulley.

The timing belts pull the crank in opposite directions. Adding another pulley pulls in only one direction. I know its not a lot but I want mine to last another 30 years. Even the one made into the cover puts an extra load to one side.[/quote]
What sort of oil seal on the back could you use in your task? Forget about the poorboy procedure, stay focused on your task and go forward...

 

[dan filipi]

I agree, forget about the poorboy, it's been done to death. Hanging it off the back is more fun.

I've run mine for many miles without the plug because I forget to put it on and found only a very very small amount of oil specks on the cover and frame, seems like not much of a seal is needed.
At least that was the case on mine, maybe more comes out on others I don't know.
I think if the alignment and drive are worked out the seal is a minor issue.

 

[mortiki]

only needs to be a small oil seal like the one for a 4-wheeler axle. May be able to find one to fit inspection port. If not I may have to drill casing but that may introduce an off balanced wobble in the seal. When I get time I am gonna look at the line=up for the cross member.

 

[dan filipi]

How about something like a CV boot attached to the alternator and rear case?

 

[mortiki]

CV boot? Maybe even better.

Need to see if I have room under side cover to fit an alternator and small pulley set up.

If this works then Dan can make kits for others to do it.

 

[danf]

CV boot? Maybe even better.

Need to see if I have room under side cover to fit an alternator and small pulley set up.

If this works then Dan can make kits for others to do it.

I think this is your puppy....... :smilie_happy:

 

[mortiki]

your right, plus we would not wanna give more production to californa.

 

[ekvh]

Now to really do it right, you should remove the plenum and carbs, go with fuel injection and straight down draft throttle bodies, and then put the alternator in where the plenum is now. Lots of room. Room for the electronics too.

 

[slabghost]

Dual carbs mounted on the heads would free up the whole center section. opcorn:

 

[mortiki]

I checked out the alt I have in the battery box and it may work with few mods to bike. Gonna build a box to replace tail light and mount tail light to back of it and attach box to luggage rack. Gonna move battery and solenoid to this box and battery box will be DCed. Looks like the shaft from stator will go under the cross member and alt will fit where solenoid is now. The bracket on the alt will snug in behind the tank against inner rear fender. I can mount a support bearing on the cross member and use small pulleys to run alt. I can mount pivot bracket on top frame and adjustment bracket to bottom where battery box mount is. Due to the size of the Alt I will probably have to put an extension on the rear side panel mount to bring it out about an inch at the rear. Besides that and with motor cover in place no one will know it's there.

 

[jdegase]

wow that is a very cool idea
I would definitely consider putting the alternator behind the engine
especially if we could adapt the cover for a seal and come up with some sort of a CV drive system.
I was thinking.. what about this...

machine the inspection cover to hold a sealed bearing
machine a drive shaft with a shoulder to fit inside the bearing and just over the flywheel bolt, so that when the inspection cover was screwed into the back of the engine the drive shaft would fit over the flywheel bolt and turn with the flywheel.

have a separate shaft mounted to the frame with another bearing or possibly 2. and a pully on the other end to drive the alternator.
then connect these two shafts with a short piece of heater hose, or maybe hydrolic hose which ever is tuffer.
could even turn the alternator around if needed . maybe more space if its mounted above and backwards on the bike.

the only thing I dont like about this idea is the alternator is very close to the gas tank... but not much worse than having the battery by the tank like it is now.

I think mounting the battery back just infrount of the taillight would be a good place BUT on my bike would need anthor mount to the frame somewhere because the taillight currently mounts to the fender which is not a nice solid mount as I would like.
I'm sure a heavy positive cable run back to the original battery spot and connected to a "new" universal solinoid would also give us a big post the connect the rest of the electrical too.
and close to the alternator for that connection also..

the more I think about this the more I like it..
if we can just get the alternator + drive setup

 

[ajclockga]

On the Suzuki Cavalcade the battery,and solenoid,and regulator is mounted in the fairing.On the right side if on the bike.Right under the pocket.The solenoid is behind the speaker.Same size battery as the wings.Fairings are very similar,might be enough room to relocate there.