Another Alt Mod Install

[Rednaxs60]

Here is the area of the lower left fairing that may/will have to be modified:

This is the spot where the alt hits the fairing:

Proposed fairing area to be modified:

Thinking a dremmel will be used - just have to take my time.

Cheers

 

[dan filipi]

Looks good except my first thought is that lower bolt may be a bit small for its length extended but I could be wrong.

 

[Rednaxs60]

dan filipi » 3 minutes ago[/url]":3h8k4p3m]
Looks good except my first thought is that lower bolt may be a bit small for its length extended but I could be wrong.

Thought about that. Thinking I might make it 3/8" or even 1/2". Could also put a collar over the bolt and sandwich it between the two nuts - less likely to bend I would think and a bit more sturdy. Will ponder this tonight after I get back from the Meat Loaf concert.

Intend to only tighten the belt with the pressure I can exert by hand. These newer v-belts have much better grip than the standard V.

 

[dan filipi]

I did it similar using 1/2" threaded rod.

 

[slabghost]

Fairing lower is plastic I believe. Maybe a little careful use of a heat gun and a push wearing gloves can reshape it enough to clear?

 

[wilcoy02]

The bolt that holds the timing belt cover in place. If you ever need to change the belts you have to take it all off. Little beaver made a small bracket behind the cover and moved the bolt over about 1/4 inch. This allows you to take the covers off without taking everything apart.

As far as the bolt holding the pulley-- make sure it stays in place. Mine came off and put a nice round hole through the radiator.

Any new electrical additions to the bike, put them on a new fuse holder and you will not need to use the original wiring.
Well worth the time to put the alternator on.
Enjoy.

 

[Rednaxs60]

The size of the crankshaft pulley is the issue when it comes to removing the timing cover bolt. If I were to use a 3" pulley, there would not be an issue.

I have used blue loctite on the crankshaft bolt, and it has had a few days to set. With the pulley turning in the direction that tightens the crankshaft bolt, should not be an issue. Did see one install where a washer was used to lock the bolt and pulley. May be an idea, could also use a star washer (recommended by Dan) as well.

Have installed a new accessory fuse block mounted inside the rear trunk. Putting all additions and new requirements on this.

Looking forward to getting this done.

Cheers

 

[Rednaxs60]

slabghost » Today, 4:53 pm[/url]":35uuuvzr]
Fairing lower is plastic I believe. Maybe a little careful use of a heat gun and a push wearing gloves can reshape it enough to clear?

Used to do this to ski boots at the ski shop where I worked. Did this when I was a teenager , just a few years ago - LOL!

Good idea, hadn't thought of this.

 

[desertrefugee]

Reminds me of when I did a Poorboy installation on my '84 Aspy. I'm not as creative and preferred to buy (overpay) for a tried and true kit. Best thing I ever did to that 1200. I'm glad you commented again on the small coolant hose going from the pump to the thermostat. I was going to ask about that. LTD item only, huh? Wonder why...

Anyway, I'm not sure about your spacing and required fan shroud "modifications", but be conservative. Remove more material than you think you should. Don't ask me how I know. Oddly, the shroud is notched from the factory in exactly the needed spot, just nowhere near as much as needed.

One more thing, if that inboard timing cover bolt access it too troubling (requiring crank bolt removal to pull the cover), consider leaving it out and installing a rubber plug (or nothing) instead. Since I'm constantly dinking around with my '78, having only the two outboard bolts is VERY handy for quick removal when needed.

Unless you're lit up like a Christmas tree, 55 Amp capacity is way more than enough.

Good luck!

 

[Rednaxs60]

Thanks for the info on the fan. Will be getting at it son.

Interesting to leave out the one bolt. Think it is an option. Also going to my local alt shop and see if he has a three inch pulley kicking around in his back shop.

It's a great project. Showed the picture of the initial install to a friend this morning and he mentioned it looked like a Corvair. After he mentioned this, I guess it does.

Cheers

 

[joedrum]

looks great to me

 

[Dusterdude]

If i may,what is the optimum crank to alt pulley ratio?thanks

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[slabghost]

Most I've read prefer 4" crank pulley and 2" alt pulley. So 2-1.

 

[Dusterdude]

Thanks sg

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[Denver]

Believe the Aspencade had the same water pump cover with a hookup for the hose, :headscratch: if my memory's still working :hihihi:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Saw one install where 2-45 degrees and an ABS pipe connector was used to adapt the new position of the rad. On the agenda for this week. There is also a spacer used on Chevy trucks that apparently works - by Moroso - water pump spacer kit, just enough to allow use of original hose.

The alt belt clears the coolant hose that goes between the thermostat and water pump housings.

Had another good look this morning at the install. The FI models have a throttle position sensor (TPS) that the alt comes up against. Have to accommodate this.

The 4" crank pulley I have is off an '89 Prelude power steering pump (used by others as well). Did a few trips to the auto parts store to get a belt to fit. Going to my alt place and see if I can get a 3" pulley that will fit a 12 mm bolt - think this will let me have access to the inboard right timing cover bolt.

Overall a good install so far. Have a list of items I have to complete. Looks long, but will disappear quickly.

Cheers

 

[Ansimp]

I would stick with the 4" pulley if you can make it work as your charging output at lower rpm will be a lot better than with a smaller pulley.

 

[Rednaxs60]

Took some pics of the TPS cover plate. Had to remove a lot of metal, but need so I can install the lower left fairing. Here are the pics:

 

[Rednaxs60]

Progressing slowly but surely. Took some pictures of the alt install, specifically the clearance at the TPS and FI wiring for the forward cylinder. It is a tight fit but allows me to not have to cut the lower fairing.

This shows the FI wiring and TPS clearance:

This shows the TPS clearance:

Have the alt brackets off and painted.

Looked at installing the rad and fan. Going to have to be creative here as well. More to follow on this.

Cheers

 

[slabghost]

Looking real good to me.