Changed timing belts now engine runs like crap

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stratocat

stratocat

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I fianally got around to changing the timing belts. I had a lot of trouble with the right side belt. I thought I had it right. I rolated the engine by hand and everything seemed to be OK. I started it and there was a lot of poping from the right side so I took the covers off and the right belt was not on the mark. I don't think it was more than one tooth. So I reset the right belt and it still ran poorly. I checked everything again. I don't have a compression tester but I can tell the right side does not product the pressure the left side does. So what do I do. I'm sure I did damage to the valves. I need some pointers on how to do this and what parts I need. :cry:
 
I feel your pain brother. :crying:

If it makes you feel any better my bike is running good now and has about 100 miles since.
Double check those timing marks,they are a bit deceiving.
 
Tory":3rucr218 said:
I feel your pain brother. :crying:

If it makes you feel any better my bike is running good now and has about 100 miles since.
Double check those timing marks,they are a bit deceiving.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tory. When it happened I got on my puter and found your post. It sounds exactly like my situation. I sure wish I had seen the tip about marking the pulleys and belts with whiteout and transfering the marks to the new belts. I think that was Dans tip. Seems like too oftem I have to do things wrong to learn how to do them right.
 
ok thats twice in a month.....were getting fooled here.....it seems when we turn it over by hand its hitting but we dont think so....i think maybe that taking the plugs out before turning by hand would give us a better feel for checking resistince.....i guess iwas real lucky......it must be hard to tell during turning by hand when its off just enough to cause damage.....weve got to get a handle on this.....

strat im sorry this happen.....but im hoping this is no worst than tory ordeal.....take the head off and see what your up against......post some pics....keep your confidence up ......
 
joedrum":1brh15pe said:
ok thats twice in a month.....were getting fooled here.....it seems when we turn it over by hand its hitting but we dont think so....i think maybe that taking the plugs out before turning by hand would give us a better feel for checking resistince.....i guess iwas real lucky......it must be hard to tell during turning by hand when its off just enough to cause damage.....weve got to get a handle on this.....

strat im sorry this happen.....but im hoping this is no worst than tory ordeal.....take the head off and see what your up against......post some pics....keep your confidence up ......
Click to expand...
Thanks Joe. This is uncharted territory for me. Valve adjustment is as deep as Ive gotten in to it. The bikes run great for 7 years, I finally do the belts and I screw it up. :crying: :crying: :crying:
 
Tory":2itqnk5q said:
I feel your pain brother. :crying:

If it makes you feel any better my bike is running good now and has about 100 miles since.
Double check those timing marks,they are a bit deceiving.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tory. Where did you buy your parts from? Were you able to replace valves without any machine work?
 
Strat, I have a compression tester and a few heads with good valves.
If you can hold off until after this weekend I can help you out.
We're out of town so I might not get back to you til Monday night.
 
joedrum":1spenbwv said:
ok thats twice in a month.....were getting fooled here.....it seems when we turn it over by hand its hitting but we dont think so....i think maybe that taking the plugs out before turning by hand would give us a better feel for checking resistince.....i guess iwas real lucky......it must be hard to tell during turning by hand when its off just enough to cause damage.....weve got to get a handle on this.....

strat im sorry this happen.....but im hoping this is no worst than tory ordeal.....take the head off and see what your up against......post some pics....keep your confidence up ......
Click to expand...


Joe,You are correct.If I had had the plugs out the first time I think I would have caught it right away.

It seems there are at least three type of cam gears out there.The one set has a very decieving mark that on the right head is just close enough to the correct mark,that it lures you in.On the left side that same wrong mark is far enough away it doesnt trick you.
 
yeah I know what you went thru... mine would lock up when turning by hand.. I too would have used the starter but this time did it by hand and felt it bind up.. until I loosened valves then when I restet it to tdc and readjusted valves it would do the same..
there is a groove on both pulleys and an arrow on some that point to the right mark.. and my left pulley on the backside said r on it.. so I got to verify the mark.. mine was more like a tit of metal then a timing mark.. I had it on the groove which was more pronounced and visible.. and definitely wrong!!!!
 
well strat whats going on .....have dove in yet and taken the head off yet or are you thinking you might need some help..... taking the head off a wing is not that bad but if you dont the have real good tools and feel for machanics it might be best to have help .....or realy go slow and cautious and dont do anything aggressive at all ...if the head wont come off after all the bolts are out ...no prying on it ...no hiting at all...maybe bumping it with a rubber mallet softly...the eahast bolts can be a pain use some kind of liquid wrench from the get go frist thing to do.....be slow and dont make any bad moves ....you have already done that.....let us know whats going on....
 
joedrum":o0hcjei3 said:
well strat whats going on .....have dove in yet and taken the head off yet or are you thinking you might need some help..... taking the head off a wing is not that bad but if you dont the have real good tools and feel for machanics it might be best to have help .....or realy go slow and cautious and dont do anything aggressive at all ...if the head wont come off after all the bolts are out ...no prying on it ...no hiting at all...maybe bumping it with a rubber mallet softly...the eahast bolts can be a pain use some kind of liquid wrench from the get go frist thing to do.....be slow and dont make any bad moves ....you have already done that.....let us know whats going on....
Click to expand...
Hey Joe, I haven't done anything but remove the radiator amd the vvalve cover. Maybe today I'll get out there and start in on it. I'm sure I have enought tools for the job. Just enjoying the holiday some. As soon as I get the head off I'll post some pics.
 
joedrum":a9gkqj0w said:
...if the head wont come off after all the bolts are out ...no prying on it ...no hiting at all...maybe bumping it with a rubber mallet softly...the eahast bolts can be a pain use some kind of liquid wrench from the get go frist thing to do.....be slow and dont make any bad moves ...
Click to expand...


Also,there is a small (10mm head) bolt on the lower end of the head.I forget it at first every time.Dont forget that one.
 
OK I started to remove the head today. I removed the fuel pump, cam shaft and rocker arm assm and have all the head bolts removed. Also the nuts holding the exhaust are removed. Do I have to remove the entire exhaust system,both sides, due to the crossover tube? I wondered if I broke the head free from the block could I lift it out without removing the exhaust?
 
Tory":1tkm87g2 said:
joedrum":1tkm87g2 said:
...if the head wont come off after all the bolts are out ...no prying on it ...no hiting at all...maybe bumping it with a rubber mallet softly...the eahast bolts can be a pain use some kind of liquid wrench from the get go frist thing to do.....be slow and dont make any bad moves ...
Click to expand...


Also,there is a small (10mm head) bolt on the lower end of the head.I forget it at first every time.Dont forget that one.
Click to expand...
I was just in the garage looking at the bike and noticed that one behind the exhaust. Thaks for pointing that out.
 
Ok the head is ready to come off. I need a few pionters on how to pop it loose from the block. I've tried tapping it gently with a rubber mallet. So far nothings moved. What do i do next? :headscratch: :headscratch: :headscratch:
 
Your certain all 6 head bolts and the small bolt at the bottom are out?

May need a larger mallet or find a pry point with a long bar against the frame.
Remember there are 2 locating pins, one in each top right bolt hole so the head needs to come off fairly straight out so it doesn't get cocked on those pins.
 

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