GL1200 overheating

[dan filipi]

Dang, I guess I gotta go for a ride. What a bummer. Tough job but someones gotta do it! :smilie_happy:

 

[dan filipi]

Ok, I hooked up my 1100 radiator.

The temp seems to warm up much slower than it does with the 1200 radiator and the fan definitely moves more air. Maybe I'm fighting multiple problems here.

I have to tie the radiator in place somehow and move the trailer out to go for a test ride, might not happen for a few days.

 

[mcgovern61]

Could the radiator fins be clogged inside? Shine a flashlight through and see how far you can see.

I just checked mine and I can see all the way to the other side clearly.

 

[dan filipi]

The fins on the 1200 rad look clear all the way thru.

With this blasted weather I havent been able to do much on it but I did manage to get my 1100 radiator tied on ready for a test run.
Still need to tie on the reservoir.

IMG 0902

• dan filipi
• Feb 9, 2010

IMG 0904

• dan filipi
• Feb 9, 2010

IMG 0903

• dan filipi
• Feb 9, 2010

I've noticed a few different things so far when warming it up in the driveway.
It takes longer to warm up,
The temp readings along the core are even,
Temp at the bottom of the radiator when the tstat is open is 3-5 degrees lower than the top. It was virtually the same on the 1200 radiator.

Damn, if I didnt have to move the trailer to get the bike out I'd know if the whole problem is the radiator. :head bang:

 

[joedrum]

good luck it sounds encouraging

 

[AApple]

I wonder if whoever did the radiator didn't block off some of the tubes? They'll do that, ya know, if they poke a hole in one (or more) of the tubes while rodding them out. They'll just solder the dang thing closed on both ends. Unless you take the tank(s) off, you'll never even know it.... :Awe: :sensored: :Awe:

 

[plskthompson1]

Sounds to me like you might have found the problem.

 

[dan filipi]

I got off early and feeling ambitious I went for a test ride.

The temps here are in the high 60's.

On the freeway running it hard up a grade the temp was around mid gauge and dropped to below 1/2 on the level!

I think the radiator is part of the problem.

When the fan runs the temp comes down at about what I think is the normal speed.
I think because of the special leading link front end design being larger and more mass in front of the radiator air flow is being blocked.
My theory is the 1200 radiator baffles do not "catch" the air well enough to direct it to the radiator which is why it still runs mid gauge pulling a grade at these air temps.

I think what we're going to look at doing is building a custom radiator using the earlier 1000 or 1100 baffles and an aftermarket puller fan I have which covers nearly the entire radiator.

 

[mcgovern61]

but from what all I've seen so far, nobody has truely "finished" the job of fabricating this, cutting off a piece of that, finding something else that will fit if they can figure out a way to relocate something, which leads to yet another obsticle, etc., etc.

Very true, especially on a 1000 or 1100.
The conversion on a 1200 is almost straight forward in comparison with it's thinner radiator and low profile fan.
If I didnt have a garage to work on mine it prolly never would have happened.

Thinner radiator? You mean the 1200 radiator is not as deep as the 1100 and Suzie's radiator has been rodded? Is it possible that there is a plugged rod and with the smaller radiator, that is why it is heating up?

 

[dan filipi]

but from what all I've seen so far, nobody has truely "finished" the job of fabricating this, cutting off a piece of that, finding something else that will fit if they can figure out a way to relocate something, which leads to yet another obsticle, etc., etc.

Very true, especially on a 1000 or 1100.
The conversion on a 1200 is almost straight forward in comparison with it's thinner radiator and low profile fan.
If I didnt have a garage to work on mine it prolly never would have happened.

Thinner radiator? You mean the 1200 radiator is not as deep as the 1100 and Suzie's radiator has been rodded? Is it possible that there is a plugged rod and with the smaller radiator, that is why it is heating up?

Someone on a 1200 forum chastised me for this but I can say anything I want here right. :grin:

Yes, the 1200 radiator is a full 1/2 inch thinner which calculates to 33% less coolant and surface area.
The earlier radiator has one more row.
I was told not to confuse CAPACITY with EFFICIENCY but when I showed the radiator guy the earlier radiator the first thing he said was "that's a heavy duty".

 

[socrace]

I used straight Muriatic acid to clean my GL1100 radiator last fall. Could see inside the radiator on the bottom tubes some white, very hard deposits that the acid took care of very well, the deposits were completely gone afterwards.

Something I noticed was that before the acid treatment, could run a garden hose into the top hose connector and it was plugged so bad that water came out the filler neck (with the radiator held upright).

After the treatment, water came out the bottom hose connector so much that no water came out of the filler neck, even with the water hose turned on full and a rag wrapped around the hose connection.

This could be a good way to test these radiators to see if they're plugged up or not..

 

[dan filipi]

Thanks for the tip socrace.

So far all indications are pointing to the radiator being at fault with some other id·i·o·syn·cra·sies of the leading link forks blocking air flow and a fan motor that runs intermittently.
The temps are going to be in the high 70's this weekend so I have some test riding to do to see if the temp stays under control.
80 degrees is a long way from the summer temps here of 90-105 so if this thing doesnt stay mid gauge or lower than something else is going on.

I'll be doing a good flush of the block at some point as well.

 

[joedrum]

whatever got the radiator restricted could have the block resticted too lets hope not. id run the crap out of it id be trying to bring in any other problem that might be going on. i cant tell from posts but if 1100-1000 radiator is bigger this would be no brainer mod for this bike if it was mine espeicaly if you think the front end is a factor. i would like you to comment on the front forks as compaired to stock. im sure you have checked the rear wheel for wobble or looseness no doubt the crummiest wheel setup on any goldwings.

 

[dan filipi]

Running with the earlier radiator is much cooler and the fan keeps temps under control!

So,,,

I went to a different radiator shop. they opened the 1200 radiator and did a flow check.
It appeared OK but when rodding it he felt restriction, then afterward did another flow check which looked much better.
He said what he felt was probably slime from antifreeze which could reduce cooling capacity.
I'm thinkin the first guy didnt rod it, got lazy or whatever so I'm going to put this one back on and go for a ride to get a comparison.

 

[dan filipi]

Stuck the 1200 radiator back on and can tell right away by the speed temp drops the 1100 radiator has much more cooling capacity so I'm going to fit the spare I have on it then run with it for awhile.
Past troubleshooting I've done with engines tells me if you cant find the problem, let it get worse until it becomes obvious.

 

[dan filipi]

For anyone still with me on this thing, here's some pics of the custom radiator install.
It's all connected now and running, just have to work on the anchors.

IMG 0915

• dan filipi
• Feb 15, 2010

IMG 0916

• dan filipi
• Feb 15, 2010

IMG 0917

• dan filipi
• Feb 15, 2010

IMG 0921

• dan filipi
• Feb 15, 2010

IMG 0920

• dan filipi
• Feb 15, 2010

Interestingly the 1000 and 1100 radiator has 63 rows, the 1200 has 50.
The 1200's rows are closer together as are the fins which is suppose to make it "high efficiency".

By my calculations the earlier cores have about 30% more cooling surface area.
I dont know how the closer fins would affect this calculation but testing the 2 under the same conditions it's very obvious the earlier core removes more heat, faster.

 

[AApple]

You're just a regular "Joe Plumber", ain't cha, Dan? :clapping: Squirt a little color on it, and no-one will ever know!
Glad you're making progress, but...just to mess with ya a little....
Wonder why this thing just all of a sudden started running hot? I know you said the orig. rad had some doo-doo(tech term for crap) in it, but, even with it clean, it still seems to run a wee bit too hot? It's the same rad all the other 1200s have, right?
Do ALL of the 1200s run warmer than "usual" ?
Do you really think there is enough air-flow restriction from the front end to cause this problem on this particular bike?
I'm not following on the "leading link" forks...could you explain what that is for the dummies like myself(or maybe JUST myself!)?
Inquiring minds want to know! :read:

 

[mcgovern61]

Nice work Dan! We are still with ya! :clapping:

Question is, does it still make bubbles with the changed radiator?

 

[dan filipi]

Question is, does it still make bubbles with the changed radiator?

That's whats strange. The bubbles into the reservoir stop with this radiator and the coolant level doesnt drop when reving the engine cold with the cap off like the 1200 radiator did. :headscratch:
It acts as if a slight more flow is stopping cavitation or something. The thermo fan switch even started to work at the right temp for a few fan cycles, don't know if that's related or not but it sure seems like there's better flow with this radiator.

 

[dan filipi]

Wonder why this thing just all of a sudden started running hot? I know you said the orig. rad had some doo-doo(tech term for crap) in it, but, even with it clean, it still seems to run a wee bit too hot? It's the same rad all the other 1200s have, right?
Do ALL of the 1200s run warmer than "usual" ?
Do you really think there is enough air-flow restriction from the front end to cause this problem on this particular bike?
I'm not following on the "leading link" forks.

This bike has run hot for the 30k miles she's owned it.
A leaking head gasket is usually what causes these symptoms but that seems like an aweful long time to be running with a leaking head gasket and not get any worse, that and I've replaced head gaskets (and water pump) and it's unchanged.

From what I can gather, the 1200 does run a bit warmer than the earlier models. Mid gauge is common but they rarely overheat/ boil over.

I'm not saying the leading link is causing it to overheat, just that I think it may be a contributing factor in making it run warmer when on the open road because it blocks alot of air flow with the original air deflectors.
With the earlier deflectors the ram air turns the fan blade.

Here's a few pics of the leading link.

As you can see in the last pic except for an open space between the fender and horns air flow is blocked.