Looking forward to hearing it too!
MAKING A TRIKE
- Thread starter transitman
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slabghost
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I think we all are!
shifter details
the business end. The gizmo fits over the splined selector and the rod extends back to:
a small hole just out of sight in the black tube shown. The tube is welded to a small length of flat bar which fits on the rear frame mount with 2 stepped bushes so the frame mount nut can be tight and the tube free. Other end of tube holds the clutch lever and a handle for shifting. The jockey shifter works a treat, only a 3 inch shift at the handle to change gear.
Fine tuning the set up means I have reversed the gizmo to stop interference with the down tube and exhaust. I have a threaded adjuster on the lever end. Hope this is clear.
Rear light cabling goes in the main frame tube here,
and comes out at the back here:
and this is a poor pic (taken into the light) of the left hand rear light unit, a led box screwed onto an alloy checker plate, bolted to a bent tube welded to the frame with a front checker plate to make a void for the cabling.
wanted to run the cables through the frame but found an obstruction, so ran them in some 15mm copper central heating pipe to the junction shown in the earlier pic.
This is an old scooter hoist from the back of a car, powered by a windscreen wiper motor and gearbox without the reciprocating cams and runs a tiny drum of nylon cord. It is bolted to the frame so that I can carry a small 3 wheel folding scooter on the back. The hoist arm can fold down and the whole hoist mechanism can also fold flat.
and this is one of the side panniers (I think you call them bags) which will be bolted to the rear frame. The other pannier will go on the right hand side.
At this stage I am checking for fit and interference so will take off the hoist and panniers to make the fittings and continue with the build. I think the light unit will look better when the mudguard is on, looks like a spare part at the moment.
Still working on the electrics and coils, and also flushing the tank and making the tank fixings. Hope to have fuel lines fitted soon, then the carbs, then the new cables (not bought yet, got to go to a cable maker in Ellesmere Port this week for a full set of new cables.)
Good weather and late light nights means lots of time in the toy shop.
the business end. The gizmo fits over the splined selector and the rod extends back to:
a small hole just out of sight in the black tube shown. The tube is welded to a small length of flat bar which fits on the rear frame mount with 2 stepped bushes so the frame mount nut can be tight and the tube free. Other end of tube holds the clutch lever and a handle for shifting. The jockey shifter works a treat, only a 3 inch shift at the handle to change gear.
Fine tuning the set up means I have reversed the gizmo to stop interference with the down tube and exhaust. I have a threaded adjuster on the lever end. Hope this is clear.
Rear light cabling goes in the main frame tube here,
and comes out at the back here:
and this is a poor pic (taken into the light) of the left hand rear light unit, a led box screwed onto an alloy checker plate, bolted to a bent tube welded to the frame with a front checker plate to make a void for the cabling.
wanted to run the cables through the frame but found an obstruction, so ran them in some 15mm copper central heating pipe to the junction shown in the earlier pic.
This is an old scooter hoist from the back of a car, powered by a windscreen wiper motor and gearbox without the reciprocating cams and runs a tiny drum of nylon cord. It is bolted to the frame so that I can carry a small 3 wheel folding scooter on the back. The hoist arm can fold down and the whole hoist mechanism can also fold flat.
and this is one of the side panniers (I think you call them bags) which will be bolted to the rear frame. The other pannier will go on the right hand side.
At this stage I am checking for fit and interference so will take off the hoist and panniers to make the fittings and continue with the build. I think the light unit will look better when the mudguard is on, looks like a spare part at the moment.
Still working on the electrics and coils, and also flushing the tank and making the tank fixings. Hope to have fuel lines fitted soon, then the carbs, then the new cables (not bought yet, got to go to a cable maker in Ellesmere Port this week for a full set of new cables.)
Good weather and late light nights means lots of time in the toy shop.
looking good ....glad weather good for toy playing.....
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+1 :good:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=174249#p174249:2tuu29mx said:
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Great!
Sorry I have taken so long in getting this next thrilling instalment out, the usual suspects keep getting in the way, house jobs, grandchildren, wife, etc.
These 3 pics show the handbrake cable assembly and the brake pipes.
The coils are to make connexions easier, so I don't strain the pipe to fit it. On the nearside, third pic, you can see the heat marks on the tube where I had to move the bracket in about an inch so the brake pipe would fit. I hadn't allowed enough space for the brake banjo bolt. Only took a couple of hours to fix.
The handbrake compensator is shown in the middle pic,
and this is the view down the brake lever but the compensator to brake lever is still waiting to happen. I have recut the ratchet teeth to fit the lock plate better, will get to show you when it's all joined up.
The black steel plate is to beef up the diff casing which is only alloy, and the cable wheels are heavy duty wardrobe door runners with neat little bearings.
The straight pipe from the 3 way union is BSF at one end, metric at the other, and I will fix a flexible brake pipe to take it to the frame. Then back to solid pipe to the bars where I will use flexy again. Left hand lever is for back brake, right hand stays for front.
Still haven't taken the brave pill to get me to fit the coils, but I have managed to fit the fuel tank sender to the tank, in the end I used rivnuts, seemed the obvious thing, eventually. Have to put some packing on the pipes where the tank will touch and get on with clamping it down. Fingers in lots of other pies too, but nothing to show yet.
These 3 pics show the handbrake cable assembly and the brake pipes.
The coils are to make connexions easier, so I don't strain the pipe to fit it. On the nearside, third pic, you can see the heat marks on the tube where I had to move the bracket in about an inch so the brake pipe would fit. I hadn't allowed enough space for the brake banjo bolt. Only took a couple of hours to fix.
The handbrake compensator is shown in the middle pic,
and this is the view down the brake lever but the compensator to brake lever is still waiting to happen. I have recut the ratchet teeth to fit the lock plate better, will get to show you when it's all joined up.
The black steel plate is to beef up the diff casing which is only alloy, and the cable wheels are heavy duty wardrobe door runners with neat little bearings.
The straight pipe from the 3 way union is BSF at one end, metric at the other, and I will fix a flexible brake pipe to take it to the frame. Then back to solid pipe to the bars where I will use flexy again. Left hand lever is for back brake, right hand stays for front.
Still haven't taken the brave pill to get me to fit the coils, but I have managed to fit the fuel tank sender to the tank, in the end I used rivnuts, seemed the obvious thing, eventually. Have to put some packing on the pipes where the tank will touch and get on with clamping it down. Fingers in lots of other pies too, but nothing to show yet.
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Boy that sure is some nice work there Ian!! :yes:
thanks for update ...as always looking great...
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1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Slow and steady wins the race Ian, nice works as always. :good:
Thanks for the feedback, but I don't know who Ian is!
I am Barry....
I am Barry....
LOL Ian is another brit...i was actually born there when my dad was over there in the service ....
slabghost
Well-known member
Thanks for the update very nice work as always.
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My fault! My fault!! Sorry........[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=176326#p176326:2adxcg6m said:
- Joined
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- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Sorry Barry, brain fade!! :doh:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=176326#p176326:3br4erke said:
Ah, brain fade, the great leveller. No worries!
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1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
Another great Pom Barry. :salute:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=176326#p176326:1izaktsn said:
viewtopic.php?t=6999#p101691
Quite a bit done since last post. fitted the front brake lines except for the banjo bolts which are in the post, and fitted the throttle cables too. Also fitted the coils, wiring not finished, still got to connect to the points and fit the ballast, but finally understand the wiring diagram.
:
This will hopefully be the final fuel tank set up, I think it will look ok like this.
Got the fuel line ready to fit too.
Bolted the seat down and working on the foot boards.
Both hoses fitted, they were fun. Lost the lower hose pic and can't understand why suddenly some are posting 90 deg out. They are all ok on the computer. Help appreciated!
Everything is being stripped off the axle for the final coat of gold paint. Will turn the trike around to do the painting and also fit the rear mudguards and the right hand rear light unit and the bumper bar. That and the foot board work will almost finish the building works. Still got things like the dashboard and screen to do, but probably no more welding.
The seat backs and headrests are with an upholsterer and will take 6 weeks or so to finish. That's another job I am not up for doing.
Paint prep on the panels is also in hand, but that will be a long job.
And that's it for now...
Handbrake
This will hopefully be the final fuel tank set up, I think it will look ok like this.
Got the fuel line ready to fit too.
Bolted the seat down and working on the foot boards.
Both hoses fitted, they were fun. Lost the lower hose pic and can't understand why suddenly some are posting 90 deg out. They are all ok on the computer. Help appreciated!
Everything is being stripped off the axle for the final coat of gold paint. Will turn the trike around to do the painting and also fit the rear mudguards and the right hand rear light unit and the bumper bar. That and the foot board work will almost finish the building works. Still got things like the dashboard and screen to do, but probably no more welding.
The seat backs and headrests are with an upholsterer and will take 6 weeks or so to finish. That's another job I am not up for doing.
Paint prep on the panels is also in hand, but that will be a long job.
And that's it for now...
Handbrake
ignore the word handbrake. pressed submit when I thought I was deleting it!
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- 1981 GL1100 “Rats Nest”
1998 GL1500c Val
1987 CBR1000f “The Pig”
1991 CBR1000f Red
I thought that was just the wife posting for you... :smilie_happy:[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=178229#p178229:3kkz2h4m said:
