My build (another one)

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Nice pair of paint guns! Keep the junky sprayers for primers so you don't foul the good guns with primer coats. It also speeds the process as you don't have to clean the primer out before painting the color coat.
 
Just saw you might still need a 7 volt regulator for your bike. :doh: Have installed one on each of my 84 standards, & they are working great, for a good part of this summer. :yes: Mouser Electronics Inc, in Texas, sells them at an unbelieveable price, lost the receipt, so can't say just how much, but i bought 10 so they didn't cost much. Part # 755-BA17807T, 3 solder joints to make, crimp ends on the wires, & plug in, no need for a heat sink, at all! :party:
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=160377#p160377:2gpenp1r said:
Denver » Fri Oct 02, 2015 10:35 pm[/url]":2gpenp1r]
Just saw you might still need a 7 volt regulator for your bike. :doh: Have installed one on each of my 84 standards, & they are working great, for a good part of this summer. :yes: Mouser Electronics Inc, in Texas, sells them at an unbelieveable price, lost the receipt, so can't say just how much, but i bought 10 so they didn't cost much. Part # 755-BA17807T, 3 solder joints to make, crimp ends on the wires, & plug in, no need for a heat sink, at all! :party:
Click to expand...

Was a bit lost there, But realised you were talking about the instruments. The Volt, Oil press and fuel gauges are all 12volt, so they aren't the problem, but the water temp is now in the revcounter, and I think that will need the 7 volt resistor. to work right.
 
Right, that's what i thought. :read: The info of what you'll need, is what's posted, :good: sorry to have forgotten till now, :blush: intended to post info earlier. :salute: You'll need to shrink wrap solder joints to finish up the job, or things might get hot :heat:
 
Well I have my old loom, which was butchered to fit a fairing, and the old bits headlight bucket was gone, so I though I might just make up a complete new loom for the bike. I got a good used (no fairing) loom for I think £15.00 here. My intention is over the winter to make a new one, I will use the one I bought as a pattern, I have a load of new connectors and some wire I will split the old loom and just clone the new one. All the wire colours will be the same as the original. I think I will be paying a premium for the wire as I need so little, also I have been looking at multi pin water proof connectors you can get them up to 6 pins in one plug, I think that would be a great improvement over the old style spades and bullet connectors. The biggest advantage as I see it is soldered pins, heat shrink that has glue on the inside to make it more waterproof at the wire entrance, with good water insulation got to be the right way forwards.

I think as Slabghost said by the time I have finished I will have built a new old bike. :smilie_happy: :moped:
 
Cycle Terminal, on the computer, in N J, is a really good place to buy the RIGHT terminals, :good: plastic, connectors, that look, snap into, & lock, just like originals. :builder: Because they are the originals. :smilie_happy: Guy's name is Joe, if memory serves, & all his stuff that i've bought is as advertised, great quality, & price is more than fair, compared to dealer price even with a 20% discount! :yes:
 
So just taken the effort to test out the temp switch for the fan the one with two posts works fine heat up I get resistance, cools down goes open circuit so I take it the thing is working. Seen the test on a U tube vid on another thread, no heat 0 ohms, add heat via water goes to circuit. so all okay, that save me a few pounds. So today got my new rear drilled disk from Wingovations (old fogy) and on the matter fo which discs, I had a brainwave earlier, so I nipped out to the bike in the outside workshop, I could have sworn that my discs had 6 mounting holes, so I though hey best idea is go take a look at the wheel itself as the mounting bolts go through the wheel hub, what a idiot I have 5 holes in the wheel hub, so had I bought 6 hole discs I would have been totally wrong. So now I have my eye on some EBC floating discs from Das Grosses land Deutschland, or Germany to you and me.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171839292133? ... EBIDX%3AIT

Good price too I think.

so with luck I might even get the panels done this week. ........

:yahoo:
 
And I was looking for the 6 bolt because you said those were the ones. :head bang: Oh well I'm glad you got it figured out before buying them. Be sure of the offset too. :whistling:
 
Ah offset, yes well just to show what a great engineer I am, couldn't figure why my offset is bigger than the rests, caught that today too, So I am measuring the offset yet again and I then realise that my offset that I am measuring includes the height of the rivets. Now sort of useless engineer does that, well me to start with, so instead of being absolutely sure that I am taking the right measurement I clearly need to look at what I am measuring first. Good job I dropped something off my glass worktable here and looked up. WTHF. What an idiot.
Catch you all later. :swoon: Master :builder: yeah right.... :rant:
 
Okay boys and girls for your entertainment for just one day.

So try as I might the finish I am getting on the polishing is less than desired, it ain't bad but not what I want, so I thought about chroming the ally. But was advised not to do so as Honda ally is in general not good for chroming (the chromer used other words that started out as F and S), but the were okay to polish. So I have some chroming done, the two radiator side wings and the top and bottom of the radiator supports. plus the new manifolds for the Webber's. The rocker covers and the fork shrouds have been polished a bit more. Total cost £150.00 that's about $230 for the lot, I think very reasonable.

Rocker covers.

Chrome1.jpg


chrome2.jpg


chrome3.jpg


chrome6.jpg


chrome4.jpg


chrome7.jpg
 
ithink the contrast between the 2 finishes will be better than if it was all chrome...the honda stuff is quite pitted or open when done ...filled with clear ...very difficult to mirror out ...and thats on there best parts ...not discounting ....just the way it is in manufacturing on the go full throttle ...honda to me was the best of the bunch ...most all went towards them...
 
Yes I am loving the finished bits, the chrome is good but the panels, the air dam on each side of the rad are a bit iffy, but after saying that they are fairly thin metal to start with, so not too worried. I thought about using epoxy clear on the shrouds and the rocker covers, but I think the guy that did the work is right nothing beats keeping it shiny with a good dose of Mothers or Belgom and a polished index finger that is worn down by years of polishing. With a bit of luck I get the re hard chromed and re ground fork struts next week. My koni rear shocks are dead, so looking to get some new ones. :yes:
 
Haven't decided what to do on the rear shocks yet, where I get my forks re chromed he had some real nice shocks for about 178 pounds, so cheaper than Hagon's, not high polish or chrome, but very good with a lot of adjustment from damping rate to spring rate and pre load. Some of his shocks are a grand a pair but I am not racing. But he said he would set them up for my weight and the weight of the bike. Problem is a good shock is great but a better shock might save you life ? If I compare my koni's to those he has, there is no real comparison, the shaft is a good 4mm thicker, two sets of springs, the one is pre load the one above is the damper.

But although not chrome flashy I can have the springs in any colour they offer about ten so they would still be flashy just not bling. :yes:
 
Great suspension is preferable to great power. I'm not a big fan of chrome and polishing so I'd probably already have bought those shocks.
 

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