NCScooter's 1000 build

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NCScooter

NCScooter

Well-known member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 23, 2013
Messages
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Location
Hope Mills, NC
Dremeled a slot

Dremeled a slot

And a regular screwdriver. . .

And a regular screwdriver. . .

Got it out!!!!!!!

Got it out!!!!!!!


I Dremeled (sp?!) a slot in the screw and used a regular screwdriver to get it out. It popped pretty easily since I had been playing with it so hard. Now I got new points.

New Points

New Points

Installed

Installed


I installed them, there was some bare wire on the Right (3,4) side, I taped it up, put the blade connectors between the nut and lock washer just like the old ones and gapped them @ 0.35 mm per Clymer (0.3-0.4mm.) When I go to set the timing, I'm able to adjust the Left (1,2) just fine. However, the 3,4 never lit the test light as I traveled thru and past #2 timing marks. It never lit. I double checked my alligator clips, whether I had the bike on and what sign of the Zodiac... Advice? Where do those wires come from? The condensers? I realize I shoulda ordered new condensers and have now. I tain't got Three to 500 bucks for a Dyna-s or C5performance ignition system. Help!!!
 
Thanks, that's almost exactly what I did, I didn't realize you could clip to the spring, I'll try that tomorrow. Like I said I had no problem setting the gaps, maybe I'll gap a little bigger, but the right side (3,4) wouldn't light the light at all. The points are brand new.

Good news on another front, received '76 GL 1000 seat, it's in great shape, and is more comfortable for me. The King/Queen seat that was on the bike put me too close to the front of the bike.

Closer look at seat

Closer look at seat

Seat strap on my 400 four

Seat strap on my 400 four


Does anyone know if this seat had a strap like on my 400four, looks like there's holes on the side for that. Where did it cross the top of the seat? Thanks. I'll retry the timing in the am.
 
these guys are gang ribbing id fire back at them ....yes the restoration forum is fine ....im not sure about the strap thing ...but it seems like it had to have one ...there pics on the web somewhere to see old pic of stock bike to chack it out ....good luck on the points today ..if theres a problem it night be in the wiring and just have hunt it down till you find the problem start at points and work to coils
 
I can take a little ribbing, I don't mind. I'm off to the "restoration" forum, in fact you already moved me. Thanks. Went through the timing a few more times, finally took the subplate w/ 3 & 4 (right side points) off, cleaned the main plate and back of the subplate w/ brake cleaner. I don't know if it was a coincidence, but I was able to go back through the whole process one more time and get good results! And yes, I spun through one more time to check. Bike started and runs pretty smooth.

:clapping: :music: :Egyptian: :party: :yahoo:

Running!

Running!


I don't know if this means anything, but the 1 and 3 manifolds run ice cold and 4 is room temp. until the bike heats up. Two gets warm immediately. Will synching the carbs change this? I idled for 5-7 minutes and the temp gauge never moved nor did the fan come on. It's about 80 w/ 95% humidity here. Speaking of our weather, it has rained so much that the animals are starting to line up in pairs. I'm going thru the cooling system next. Timing belts soon, I read this link https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3544 and was wondering if "or alternatively Randakk suggests:
Gates #T274
NAPA #250274
Goodyear Gatorback #40274" means that the two belts are identical, even though Honda has 2 different numbers? I will go to the Irish auto parts store in the morning, advice before then would be appreciated. I know I'll have to check the timing again after I change belts. :head bang: :head bang:

Here's another dog:

Another dog

Another dog

 
HAPPY FOURTH OF JULY​
Changed timing belts, used NAPA 250274. Got the radiator off fairly easily and the old belts came off no problem.

Radiator removed, Bolt missing

Radiator removed, Bolt missing

Covers off

Covers off


Got the left side belt on no problem. Made the mistake of saying,"Wow, I'll be done before lunch." Put the right side belt on six times before I was satisfied. One notch off over and over again. Finally got it right. "Stripping the spanner" nor releasing the valves really helped. Checked clearance, didn't change on left, I had to reset the #3 intake (the one I released.)

Replacing radiator was a beach. 'Nuff said. :sensored: :rant: Here's the old top hose. I think the bottom hose was older.

Upper hose is old enough to get married w/o parental consent.

Upper hose is old enough to get married w/o parental consent.


Got a front brake MC rebuild kit coming Saturday (I hope.) Gonna work on front calipers tomorrow. Got some miscellaneous issues too.

This monstrosity welded on the trunk platform.

effing backrest

effing backrest

PO welded this on to the trunk platform, trunk no longer fits.

And all the wires going in to the left rear turn signal are orange. This may be just the tip of my electrical problems.

Orange wires

Orange wires

The orange wire connects to the parking light, while the orange wire runs the turn signal and...

How does one test and/or remove the gas gauge sending unit and gauge? :help: :beg: :thanks:
 
Sending unit goes in through the top. Should be a lock ring holding it in. Grounding the sending unit wire with key on should make gage read full.
 
I see the top of it, by grounding, do you mean touching a wire across the 2 contacts? Is there a particular tool or method to removing (besides not smoking!) the sender w/o bending those tabs? I assume I'll have to get something on those tabs to unscrew it. Tanks. I mean thanks. :smilie_happy:
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=87828#p87828:26rm73sf said:
slabghost » Thu Jul 04, 2013 11:40 pm[/url]":26rm73sf]Sending unit goes in through the top. Should be a lock ring holding it in. Grounding the sending unit wire with key on should make gauge read full.
Click to expand...

I did all sorts of things w/ those wires to no avail. Is there a way to check the gauge directly? Redid timing this morning, that's picky work. Got her just about perfect. Running the engine w/o that little timing mark cover in place really does spray oil all over in a hurry. I wonder how long my exhaust headers are gonna smoke for? Running pretty good. May get to front brakes this afternoon. Currently 88 w/ 57% humidity. :cheeky: Waitin' on MC rebuild kit, but I think one of the calipers may be sticking.
 
Depending on how much oil and trash accumulated in the exhaust it can smoke for several days. Since it is running is your temperature gage working? If the gas and temperature are both not working it may be the 7 volt power supply to them is defective or disconnected.
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=87938#p87938:3mda1wge said:
slabghost » Fri Jul 05, 2013 4:22 pm[/url]":3mda1wge]Depending on how much oil and trash accumulated in the exhaust it can smoke for several days. Since it is running is your temperature gage working? If the gas and temperature are both not working it may be the 7 volt power supply to them is defective or disconnected.
Click to expand...

No, the temp gauge ain't working either. Where is this 7v power supply you speak of? I don't see it on the wiring diagram for the '77 nor is it mentioned in my Clymer's, which doesn't surprise me.
 
I'm not certain on your model but in the 1100s its in the bottom of the gage cluster. Yours should be close. Someone else should chime in on this pretty soon.
 
Voltage reducers are either attached to gauges or built into them. There are some threads on how to build a cheap ic powered 7v gauge regulator
 

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