New starter, new solenoid, worked at first now won't turn over...bench test on starter OK....wtf?

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I run a $100 Crappy Tire Battery - dont use a tender over the winter and have never had any trouble with it
 
Old style wet cells work and are the lowest priced variety of battery. AGM are very nice but pricey maintenance free batteries. Gel batteries are not well suited for bikes. Shop around for your best deal.
 
Here is the AGM I got back in May 2011 and still running strong!

I finally replaced my battery with an AGM type. I went to AutoZone for the "Extreme Magna Power ETX18L" for $89.99. Turns out, the battery is actually a DEKA ETX18L! I have a lot of experience with DEKA batteries on boats and ships and they have always performed well! This battery came fully charged and ready to go.

I have installed a voltmeter in my Standard via the accessory tang in the fuse holder to keep an eye on the voltage in the past and was interested in how the new battery is holding voltage and how high it charges. The highest charge on the meter is 14.8 VDC. At the battery, the highest voltage is 15.2 VDC. The stator is putting out all right! When I come to a stop and the fan comes on with the brake light and turn signal on, the meter shows 12.2 VDC. Increase RPM a little and it is right back up at 14.8 in seconds!

Bike is starting quicker too!
 
Sounds to me like you have solved the problem of hydrolock but you have to reset the floats in your carb. I just went through that. Fixed the problem. The starter clutch isn't the problem or it would not turn over with plugs out. GO RIDE!!!!! :smilie_happy: :smilie_happy: :good: :good:
 
chrisbags":pl3u6ozw said:
Thanks bob riding to work today.

Anyone know where a good how to article might be? May not tackle it alone but would like to see how hard it looks.

Going battery shopping!
This should get the job done. This is for rebuild of the carbs but setting the floats is part of the process.
viewtopic.php?f=11&t=261
 
Thanks again! I think it may not be the battery, but I"m replacing it anyway. I finally got around to checking the Stator connection wires next to the battery. Of course, they're corroded. May be what was causing the weak cranking, the battery just wasn't getting charged/the bike trying to run off the battery instead of the stator, anyway I'm not sure but all I did was unplug, inspect, shake and blow out the connector and shazam, the bike started, albeit with a weak crank, and I have been able to restart since.

Battery back on the tender so I'll continue this line of experimentation tomorrow God willing and the creeks don't rise.

I'm going to have to do the carbs anyway slabghost, so a big 10-4 and thank you on the link above!
 
Might want to cut that connector out of there and solder the wires. Voila no more faulty connections.
 
:hi: Just another note : I have found that a full tank on a warm day will do the same thing it will have enough pressure to unseat the floats and mine hydrolocked. when my tank is not full no problems, but I am still in the habit of turning off the valve just in case! :wave:
 
If you still have the stator plug, get rid of it! Cut the wires as said, solder WELL (mine was ugly as hell, but the wires were FULLY soldered together) and shrink tube. Won't have to look back until you have to replace the stator or apply a "poor man's stator/alternator" which is where I'm headed when my stator dies.

PS: Look up and down the stator wires by peeling off the wound electrical tape at least 8" to see if there are any other splices that may have failed. Found them on my '85, the original dealer soldered splices. They were the ones that failed. Barely touched one of them and it came apart.
 
Yo Bobo thank you for weighing in, yes, the stator plug goes bye bye first opportunity to sit down and solder properly.

What exactly is a poor man's stator/alternator? God knows when it comes to my bike habit Im in that category for damn sure.
 
chrisbags":2hzpn8hl said:
Yo Bobo thank you for weighing in, yes, the stator plug goes bye bye first opportunity to sit down and solder properly.

What exactly is a poor man's stator/alternator? God knows when it comes to my bike habit Im in that category for damn sure.


its an external alternator now that they have such small ones you can fit them under the fairing. Runs off the main shaft at the front - lots of threads about it here. The Poorboy part of it is a guy called poorboy sells the pully and bracket (for the 1200's) lots of people think he invented the mod but thats a different story.
 
what ever happened with the metal fragments found in the bottom of the starter access (from page one)?
 
Hey! I used a magnet to clean out the fragments and I installed a magnetic oil cap to the bike. I've checked it a couple times and there haven't been any more fragments. The motor was rebuilt after the tranny blew up on a previous owner. It's since been checked by a mechanic and he gave her a clean bill of health. I finished restoring her in march. Ill post a pic.
 

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