New To Me - Second 1985 Limited - New Project

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The clutch is a bit of a concern. Expected it to work well after bleeding the hydraulic line. One of the first things I'll do next time is take the slave off and clean/rebuild it, then try the clutch again. Don't think the clutch stack itself is a problem, but stranger things have happened.

I do hope it fires after I put in a new fuel pump. I know it will roll over with a new starter. If it doesn't fire and the issue found soon after, a parts bike it may become.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187965#p187965:3n6uyhih said:
Ansimp » Today, 1:37 pm[/url]":3n6uyhih]
Sounds like plenty of potential. :good:

My ex used to say that when we bought houses. For me the "potential" meant "work". In the case of these bikes, it's a great past time, hobby and a way to keep the mind sharp. Amazing how the same word can have so many different meanings, even ones not found in the dictionary.

Cheers
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=187972#p187972:3it4d3dz said:
slabghost » 40 minutes ago[/url]":3it4d3dz]
Clutch may have some plates stuck together from sitting. Not likely they are damaged.

If so, and can get the bike running, just work the clutch, or try to free it up before starting, or do I have to pull the engine and take the clutch apart - free up the plates - then reinstall?
 
Some have broken them free starting the bike on the center stand. Pull in the clutch and stand on the rear brake. Others have managed to break them loose rocking the bike back and forth in gear with the clutch pulled.
 
During the survey of the new to me bike in Ontario, my brother and I determined a new fuel pump was needed. We did this by checking the power circuit to the fuel pump. One of the questions that came up was how does the fuel system on the '85 Limited Edition and probably the '86 SEi, work. When we checked the bike, there was power to the fuel pump for a few seconds then it was off. Since we did not get the bike started, we couldn't determine what happened when started.

Did a check of my '85 LTD here in Victoria. Found that the fuel pump was cycled as soon as the ignition switch was turned on to pressurize the fuel system then the power was turned off by the CFI system. Power to the fuel pump was turned on as soon as the bike was started.

I knew the fuel pump would come on and pressurize the system, but I was not sure of how the sequence was done by the bike. You can hear the fuel pump come on, pressurize the system, and shut down. You don't hear the fuel pump come on once the bike is started.

This information further corroborates the need for a new fuel pump. On another thread I have, there has been an active dialogue regarding replacement fuel pumps for these FI models. Walbro, Airtex, and other models have been found to have acceptable replacement fuel pumps. I have bought an Airtex E8312 fuel pump that has specs that should make it an acceptable substitute for the OEM fuel pump.

More to follow on this as the process to get this bike roadworthy unfolds.

Cheers
 
Wait until you get it started. If the pump cycles for start it will likely run fun fine while the bike runs.
 
If the fuel pump cycles and pressurizes initially, I would assume the pump is OK. I have been through the 86 SEi fuel system electrical diagrams since I am setting up to use an 86 SEi fuse/relay panel as a replacement system on my '82. There are multiple relays for the fuel system, each being triggered by a different function. I would suggest going to the gallery and reviewing the schematics to get a better understanding. Take a look through the 86 1200 Electrical Troubleshooting manual in the gallery. It is fantastic!

gallery/album.php?album_id=1822
 
Christmas has come early this year. Home for Xmas - Mom is not getting any younger at 85. In northern Ontario with the snow and cold as well.

Back to the point, bought this second '85 LTD because as you know, with these older vintage bikes, always nice to have a second when one is down for maintenance/work. It has been sitting since 2014, outside - covered for the last year that I have had it.

Was here this summer and I took the TPS, and a host of other sensors because I was having issues with my bike in Victoria. Did use the TPS and found the issue was coils.

Fast forward to now and I brought everything back with me including an aftermarket TPS that I modified to fit - I'll get to this. Brother and I rolled the bike into his garage this morning to let it warm up, headed into town for a few items then back to the garage. My brother Stephen changed the rad coolant while I worked on the bike, putting the fuel injectors, Gr/Gl camshaft sensor, the aftermarket TPS, PB sensors, bank angle sensor, new starter, and the fuel pump that came off my other bike.

We drained the old fuel out of the tank, it was a pretty green colour. Had an issue getting the fuel to flow so we blew out the line quite a few times, and recycled the fuel a few times to get a fuel flow. Finally got all the old fuel out, and put in some 6 litres of new.

Hooked up the starter solenoid, and put the jumper cables on from brother's car. Everything came on as expected except the fuel system light was on an never went out. Think this is the fuel system pressure - need to change the fuel filter. Pressed the starter button and it turned over, but the starter stayed engaged. Disconnected the battery cable(s).

A few more tries and we really did not expect the bike to start. After working through the starter issue, we tried again and the bike caught, but I jumped the gun and disconnected the battery cable(s). My brother said my eyes were like saucers, his were as well, and he kept saying "did you hear that".

After we settled down. We tried again and it came to life. Settled in at 1040 RPM and there was a nice blue flame out of the head exhaust ports on both sides - I have the exhaust removed from the bike at this time. We are very impressed and let it run for a bit. Shut it down and started it several times. Starts very quickly.

We are impressed with this development because it started and ran well.

The issue with this bike was a fuel pump and starter. The PO did not have a good shop assisting him.

I now have a dilemma with this bike. Now that I know the bike runs, what to do. I thought it might be a parts bike, but now I'm uncertain.

I will be putting together a tentative work profile and costing. I will not be doing to this one what I have done to the other as this would be the spare bike.

Regardless of the outcome, this has been a good Christmas present so far, even my brother is impressed.

More to think about.

Cheers
 
Another good read.

I guess you ought to sell it! Can't part out a nice, running Limited. And you already have a fuely. But, if you're like a lot of folks, if one is good, two must be better!

Sorry, can't help you Ernest - but nice to hear you have options now with a runner on your hands.
 
Two is always better than one. Get rid of the 1800 I think.

Noticed something else with this one, there are no aftermarket add-ons except for wings on the windscreen. No driving lights, cigarette lighter, extra lights, nothing. This is rare unto itself.

The alternator and charging system wiring is burnt, black and down right ugly. Would like to know how this happened. Have an idea, but it is a mute point as I will be putting an external alternator on it.

Have started a work list in my mind. Should be able to get it out west with not a lot of expense.

Cheers
 
Mentioned that I had taken the OEM TPS from this bike for my bike in Victoria. I thought I might have a TPS issue so I had ordered 5 aftermarket TPS units off eBay for $28.00 CDN delivered. I used one for my sacrificial test unit. Here is the aftermarket TPS Unit:
Aftermarket TPS 1.jpg


I thought that this aftermarket unit could be modified to fit without using lathes and other equipment that I do not have. I looked at the control arm from the original OEM TPS and the aftermarket unit. I would have to extend the aftermarket control arm out approximately 1/4" to 3/8". The OEM TPS showed the distance I had to make up for.
Original TPS Arm.jpg


What I came up with was to drill a small hole in the aftermarket TPS unit control arm:
TPS Base Mod and Screw Hole.jpg
use a small screw and cover with JB weld epoxy for stability:
TPS Arm Mod Distance.jpg
This picture also illustrates the distance that had to be compensated for. This is the final version that i installed today, and it works well - so far. I think that a bit longer screw would be better - for next time:
TPS Arm Mod.jpg


The picture that shows the drilled screw hole has also had the main body modified to fit into the TPS location, and be secured with the original bracket. The original bracket was cut in half because of the shape of the aftermarket TPS body. I also used a small O-ring to seal the TPS unit.

As an aside, the TPS from a 1985 Honda CRX Si also fits the '85 LTD and '86 SEi. I'm very pleased with this TPS modification, because if it had not worked, would have had to wait until my next trip here to continue with the work on this bike.

Cheers
 
Did stator and regulator checks this afternoon. Stator is fine. Think the regulator as well. Have one error code for the TPS, Have it hooked up temporarily. Will be getting at the actual wiring soon. Battery tomorrow and hook up the regulator and see what happens.
 
That's my thoughts as well. Keeps costs down and it will be the second bike. Never know what the future will be for it though. Like projects and keeping busy.

Already have the parts for the brake calipers and timing belts. Clutch is the real concern. Been sitting so long may have to pull the engine and do it. Have a nice warm garage to work in. Be able to do some other small items as well.

Cheers
 
Ordered a battery, here tomorrow. Jobber brought in the wrong fuel filter, second try tomorrow as well.

Connecting the old regulator to the wiring, but something didn't sit right with it.

Took the number off the regulator - TMR541 12W18. Comes off a '98-'99 Kawasaki ZX6R. Engine half the size and I would expect that the regulator is not suited for an alternator that can put out 500 watts. I know that the base current requirements for the '85 LTD is ~22 amps. This is close to the max wattage of a carbureted 1200. Maybe this is why the crimp terminals at the regulator were cooked.

Going to connect it as I want to be able to prove the system, and bike operation. Only has to last for a few hours which I think it will.

Went on the internet and there is a regulator for an '86 SEi for $25.00 from Caltric. Quality could be so-so (?), but it would surely be better than a regulator suited for a lesser sized alternator.

Think that I will have to change this out before it hits the road. Have one in Victoria that I will bring with me next time.

Any comments?
 
I'd probably try the Kawasaki regulator. Maybe the connection condition is simply because they are cheap connector done not so well? Hopefully the clutch will free up just rocking it but you'll need to be sure the system is bled and functional.
 
Have the Kawasaki regulator connected. Went and got some good quality butt crimp terminals with heat shrink. Found an inexpensive ratcheting crimp tool that has fixed dies for standard yellow/blue/red crimping. Brother thinks I should forget it when I head back home. Works pretty good for $20.00.

it's -24 deg C outside but the garage is warm.
Brother's garage 1.jpg
Brother's garage 2.jpg


The connections for the regulator were a bit burnt. Here is a few I cut off:
Old Regulator Connectors.jpg


Have a set of timing belts that I was going to take home for the other '85. Think I will install these here. Get ahead of the game.

Cheers
 

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