How much to keep quite?
Over heated in Texas
- Thread starter brianinpa
- Start date
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
OP
OP
What did I do???
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2009
- Messages
- 10,981
- Reaction score
- 238
- Location
- Kingsport, Tennessee
- My Bike Models
- Former '82 GL1100 "The Slug"
Brian. You can borrow my ultrasonic cleaner.[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194394#p194394:3hoiyab7 said:
OP
OP
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194413#p194413:33wir3wl said:
I may take you up on that. After taking this rack apart, it's no wonder these carbs are such a pain in the ass! Add to it that they are pretty nasty, so I think a make-shift cleaner won't work too well.
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=194399#p194399:1fldku50 said:
This :wave:
OP
OP
The cleaning is complete and the rebuild has begun. The home-made vibrating cleaner worked, just not as well as I wanted it to on some of the exterior grime, so I had to resort to some scrubbing. I'm halfway there so here is a sneak peak...
Once the chrome carb covers are installed, that should look just fine. I am probably going to paint the intake horns black also.
Once the chrome carb covers are installed, that should look just fine. I am probably going to paint the intake horns black also.
slabghost
Well-known member
Looks great from here!
OP
OP
When I started to disassemble the carbs, I decided I was going to tear these completely apart since this rack came from a different motor than it was going back onto, and the pilot screws caps had been previously removed. When I removed the pilot screws the adjustments were all over the place and the small O-rings and washers were missing from the back of the pilot screw... Kilroy was there!
I am soon going to be putting them back on the motor, so I will need to adjust them. Problem is, I don't have a tach that measures in 50 rpm graduations. So I was looking for options. While looking, I saw the color tune spark plug which, seems to me, you get a better tune on each individual pilot screw with this than using the tach method.
I'll be honest though, this is the first time I have seen the color tune as I have never done this before and when I read the idle drop procedure in the manual, I just get more confused. When I watch a video for the color tune plug, well that's easy to understand... tune until you get a dark blue color on each cylinder. Has anyone tuned carb racks using both methods and which one did you find was better?
I am soon going to be putting them back on the motor, so I will need to adjust them. Problem is, I don't have a tach that measures in 50 rpm graduations. So I was looking for options. While looking, I saw the color tune spark plug which, seems to me, you get a better tune on each individual pilot screw with this than using the tach method.
I'll be honest though, this is the first time I have seen the color tune as I have never done this before and when I read the idle drop procedure in the manual, I just get more confused. When I watch a video for the color tune plug, well that's easy to understand... tune until you get a dark blue color on each cylinder. Has anyone tuned carb racks using both methods and which one did you find was better?
slabghost
Well-known member
I have always relied on hearing the rpm. Set for the highest rpm at each carb twice and call it done. After that it's just synchronize and set idle. Idle drop is too lean to me so I don't do it.
OP
OP
That's what I always did with my snowmobiles...
slabghost
Well-known member
No reason not to do the same here. Done right the mix screws often are at varied positions.
Denver
Well-known member
No reason to de-tune the carbs are lean enough imho at best.
OP
OP
Well I am also omitting the secondary air system when I put it back together.
I bought a ColorTune to use on my GL1100 and was impressed with the results. I was having trouble with the idle drop procedure. The engine smoothed out nicely when I reached the blue color on each cylinder.
OP
OP
Thanks MJ!
:good:
OP
OP
I had to replace the gear position sensor but it appears that I've got a defective one again. So what does the overdrive signal going into the ignition control unit do? I have neutral and I have 4th gear but I don't have overdrive.
I was under the impression that it just lit the light in the tach but after looking at the schematic I'm not sure anymore.
I was under the impression that it just lit the light in the tach but after looking at the schematic I'm not sure anymore.
On 1200 it tells the ignition module to measure vacuum off carb to adjust timing. This happens in 4th and 5th gear only. 1st thru 3rd timing is ignition module controlled only
OP
OP
So it either needs to work, otpr the timing in OF will be off by a bit?
True, the wire from the gear sensor is simply a signal wire telling the ignition module which manner of timing to use either electronic or vacumm. There should be a vacuum line from # 4 carb that runs up to the top rail of the frame where it y's with one side going to the ignition module and plugs in, there's an internal vacuum sensor inside the module. The other side of the y goes short distance and is plugged off.
