Rebuild '82 Standard Wire Harness and Fuse Box

[mcgovern61]

Ansimp » Wed Sep 07, 2016 3:27 pm[/url]":2uw5bcph]
Most 12v relays are 30a or better Gerry.

Even this kind?

 

[Ansimp]

Yes Gerry
Google is your friend. :yes:
https://www.autotechnik.co.uk/ProductGrp/000200030004
Some changeover relays have 20a and 30a on their contacts. You could almost use them as starter solenoid relays on motorcycles. I would use 40a rated relays if needed. Remember your charging circuit is only 20a. :doh:

 

[mcgovern61]

Remember your charging circuit is only 20a.

Good point! :yes:

The 1200 CFI circuit is setup using the second white feed wire direct from the battery and also feeds power to the fuel pump relay. When the key is on, it triggers the one relay to feed power to both.

I am thinking that the original 1100 system worked fairly well with just the single 14 gauge wire feeding power. If I feed the higher draw units (horn, brake lights, fan, ignition) from relays that get their power from a new power feed, then the remaining circuits can be run directly from the fuses like before.

 

[Ansimp]

This is a perfect opportunity for you to load share. Split those circuits so that you have only trigger current running through your ignition, kill, headlight and high low switches. That way they will last forever?

 

[Ansimp]

One spare relay would be good in case of a relay failure, then you just swap it out with the faulty one. You could also make a jumper wire for a double emergency where you can bridge the switching contacts circuit if needed. This could be cable tied to your wiring for an emergency.

 

[joedrum]

my wiring looks like a moron did it ...im in bad need of total rewire job ... :doh: it dose sort of work :hihihi:

 

[mcgovern61]

mcgovern61 » Wed Sep 07, 2016 4:09 pm[/url]":18cr6qcx]

Remember your charging circuit is only 20a.

Good point! :yes:

The 1200 CFI circuit is setup using the second white feed wire direct from the battery and also feeds power to the fuel pump relay. When the key is on, it triggers the one relay to feed power to both.

I am thinking that the original 1100 system worked fairly well with just the single 14 gauge wire feeding power. If I feed the higher draw units (horn, brake lights, fan, ignition) from relays that get their power from a new power feed, then the remaining circuits can be run directly from the fuses like before.

Page 192

• dan filipi
• Jun 8, 2013

 

[mcgovern61]

Ansimp » Wed Sep 07, 2016 4:34 pm[/url]":9vhco29z]
This is a perfect opportunity for you to load share. Split those circuits so that you have only trigger current running through your ignition, kill, headlight and high low switches. That way they will last forever?

Thanks Tony! Now my head really hurts! :cheeky: :smilie_happy:

Which circuits to branch off versus which should be relay powered. The good thing is, the entire '82 harness is laying out on my work table so tracing wires to their "splices" is easy. I am still really shocked at how many circuits are "branched off" the main black wire.

I think tapping into the coil and ignition with a new circuit will be good (and fairly easy from a relay), but I have a chance to also tap the headlight circuit and there is a brake control relay already in the panel. Headlight and brake lights are a big draw on the system. Giving them direct power from a new relay circuit might be nice.

Of course, the bigger issue now is how to make all of these connections?

The SEi fuse/relay box is a spaghetti of 14 gauge wires. I can add buss bars for the new power connections and ground wires, but I still need to connect the fuse box wires to the system wiring.

I know it seems like a lot of un-necessary work compared to just replacing the glass fuse box with a blade fuse box, but the wiring in this old system really is low grade and potentially undersized. I have a chance to change that I think. :headscratch:

 

[Ansimp]

I would be using them to directly replace the circuits in your original fuse box. I would just run up some new supply to the SEi box from the battery. If you wanted some more circuits you could use a combination of you new fuse box and your old one. I still like the old glass type fuses and fuse box as long as the contacts are clean and still springy ( grab the fuses properly) and you use externally soldered glass fuses.

 

[mcgovern61]

I am working through the changes in the new fuse panel and which relays I want to use. I am thinking of doing a similar setup that the 1200 had which is there are two different main sources of power to the fuse panel. Each has a 30 amp fuse. The 1st source is the same as our 1100 system which is a 14 gauge wire from the battery/30 amp fuse feed to the key back to the fuse panel. The other is another 14 gauge wire power feed from the battery with a 30 amp fuse to the fuse panel, but a relay triggers this feed to come on.

I am assuming that for our 1100 system that two 14 gauge wires would be more than enough to feed power from the battery. The connecting circuits would be at least 18 gauge since none of these circuits exceeds 10 amps although there are 15 amp fuses on some of them.

Thoughts?

 

[Ansimp]

I think that is perfect Gerry. You are load sharing with two circuits and as you are aware it all worked with only one. :good:
I like to use auto reset circuit breakers for my additional feed circuits to the relays ( and new fuses in your case) that way if there is a major fault the main feed will automatically reset.
viewtopic.php?p=147588#p147588

 

[mcgovern61]

I like the auto reset idea! :thanks:

 

[mcgovern61]

I think I have the relays all figured out for the changes for the two separate busses. My next question is related to the fuses. I am not increasing any loads on the original wires, but some of the original circuits were had only 5 amp fuses such as the parking light circuit. I am keeping those circuits the same, so I am assuming I will need to change out some of the 10 amp fuses that came with the new fuse box for 5 amp fuses to match those circuits in the original system.

 

[slabghost]

Original sized fuses are best choice. You might also re-mark the box to indicate the correct fuse size.

 

[mcgovern61]

slabghost » Wed Sep 21, 2016 3:35 pm[/url]":ayinikyo]
Original sized fuses are best choice. You might also re-mark the box to indicate the correct fuse size.

I plan on that. I am going to make a new label to stick on the top of the fuse holder.

 

[backlander]

Checking on ya Gerry, how's the wiring going ?

 

[mcgovern61]

backlander » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:04 pm[/url]":20xp474j]
Checking on ya Gerry, how's the wiring going ?

Slow and steady Mike! I re-routed some of the internal wiring of the relays to separate them. R4 and R5 shared some of the same wiring while they had different grounds. I pulled the common ground from R6 and R7 and routed them to R4 and R5. Essentially, each relay is now independent. I eliminated R6 and R7 since they were normally closed relays and I did not have a use for them. They were originally for the cornering lights. When power was on, the relay would open and the lights were off until a turn signal came on which would trigger the relay to close. I needed the wires and terminals from those relays to change some of the other ones (without having to create new wires).

I am using the original black wire from the 1100 key to trigger R3 which will have a brand new 14 gauge direct feed from the battery (with a fuse). This feed will go to a buss bar that will supply power to most of the fuses that will connect to the bikes original 6 fused circuits except for the brake lights, fan, accessories and parking lights. The radio and parking lights will be fed from the original wires in the 1100 key so they will still work on ACC and Park.

Buss 1 will trigger R5 which will have a new 14 gauge feed from the battery which will feed power to fuses 9, 10 and 11 which provide power for R1, R2 and R4 (pre-wired that way from Honda). R1 will operate the brakes lights, R2 will operate the trailer lights and new USB power plug.

R4 is fed power from fuse 9 and will be triggered by Buss 1 to send a feed to Buss 2. Buss 2 will provide power for fuse 3 for the gauges and sending units, fuse 5 which will go to the ignition coils and fuse 8 which will go directly to the fan.

Ultimately, I am redistributing the power in the system and balancing some of the load a little better than the 1100 setup.

Here is a picture of the new buss bars. This unit will install where the old fuse box was located. I will be removing the common connecting bar to make two separate busses.

I am going to re-bundle the wires coming out of the relay/fuse box and add new connectors for each group. Then I will run new wires from the connectors to the buss bars or the harness as needed. This way I can disconnect the harness easily and pull the fuse/relay box out of the way to service the air filter or remove the carbs similar to the 1200 setup.

 

[joedrum]

hmmmmm nice ...ive got to do the same thing soon...rewire everything

 

[dan filipi]

Should nice Gerry.

 

[mcgovern61]

It sounds more complicated than it really is. My first thing was to really learn the 1200 SEi fuse/relay panel and see what Honda did for that model. There were great improvements to the wiring system in the 1200. For me, it is a really just a matter of redirecting the wires were needed. But, that took a long time to figure out where each wire went to each fuse and relay and then decide how I wanted to use the wires. I am trying to keep as much of the original Honda color code in order for each connection.