[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=181790#p181790:20xp474j said:
backlander » Tue Oct 04, 2016 9:04 pm[/url]":20xp474j]
Checking on ya Gerry, how's the wiring going ?
Slow and steady Mike! I re-routed some of the internal wiring of the relays to separate them. R4 and R5 shared some of the same wiring while they had different grounds. I pulled the common ground from R6 and R7 and routed them to R4 and R5. Essentially, each relay is now independent. I eliminated R6 and R7 since they were normally closed relays and I did not have a use for them. They were originally for the cornering lights. When power was on, the relay would open and the lights were off until a turn signal came on which would trigger the relay to close. I needed the wires and terminals from those relays to change some of the other ones (without having to create new wires).
I am using the original black wire from the 1100 key to trigger R3 which will have a brand new 14 gauge direct feed from the battery (with a fuse). This feed will go to a buss bar that will supply power to most of the fuses that will connect to the bikes original 6 fused circuits except for the brake lights, fan, accessories and parking lights. The radio and parking lights will be fed from the original wires in the 1100 key so they will still work on ACC and Park.
Buss 1 will trigger R5 which will have a new 14 gauge feed from the battery which will feed power to fuses 9, 10 and 11 which provide power for R1, R2 and R4 (pre-wired that way from Honda). R1 will operate the brakes lights, R2 will operate the trailer lights and new USB power plug.
R4 is fed power from fuse 9 and will be triggered by Buss 1 to send a feed to Buss 2. Buss 2 will provide power for fuse 3 for the gauges and sending units, fuse 5 which will go to the ignition coils and fuse 8 which will go directly to the fan.
Ultimately, I am redistributing the power in the system and balancing some of the load a little better than the 1100 setup.
Here is a picture of the new buss bars. This unit will install where the old fuse box was located. I will be removing the common connecting bar to make two separate busses.
I am going to re-bundle the wires coming out of the relay/fuse box and add new connectors for each group. Then I will run new wires from the connectors to the buss bars or the harness as needed. This way I can disconnect the harness easily and pull the fuse/relay box out of the way to service the air filter or remove the carbs similar to the 1200 setup.