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OP
well im into the load testing stator ....seems to have past so far ...im going to test some more here with the light method ......
shock treatment
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[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155518#p155518:2uvxgz4h said:
Yeah, but which one... 1000, 1100, or 1200? :headscratch:
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:smilie_happy:
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ok todays bought some clairity to the issue ....
accuired a new meter ..its a fluke ..one of the best i guess ...
last night on a effort to get battery charge i hook up a car battery to the bike battery ...then hook up 6amp charger to carbattery ...hoping this might buffer bike battery from over charge rate of the 6 amp charger ....left it hook up several hrs like 5or6
seemed to work ... this moring ..it started turning over great and bike started .... and ran very well
when i check stator with the new meter i had one wire from stator thst splits and gose to reg and then to rectifier read bad ... 2.1 instead of 4or 5 ....so it seems the same thing that troubled the old stator did the same to other stator i put in ....
so here i am ..i am seriously thinking of alt. conversion now ...jake 2012 way... he has a bike build im closely going to be like it seems ...probably came about the same way ... he went single then stator went bad ..and then he did altinator conversion where altinator is under the shelter ...seems very good thing for hooch ..for several reasons ....timing belt covers already short at crank pulley...
i really never want this to happen to me again... on road would be a disaster...
i dont really use extra power but ..no reason to not have it in a mod ....
personally i always went stator before ... but ican see theres no way the stator can be in the same level of reliability with the motor out deal and low power of and aged parts that are not made anymore ...to a moderin easy to maintane charging system .... lets hear some thoughts on these choices
opcorn:
accuired a new meter ..its a fluke ..one of the best i guess ...
last night on a effort to get battery charge i hook up a car battery to the bike battery ...then hook up 6amp charger to carbattery ...hoping this might buffer bike battery from over charge rate of the 6 amp charger ....left it hook up several hrs like 5or6
seemed to work ... this moring ..it started turning over great and bike started .... and ran very well
when i check stator with the new meter i had one wire from stator thst splits and gose to reg and then to rectifier read bad ... 2.1 instead of 4or 5 ....so it seems the same thing that troubled the old stator did the same to other stator i put in ....
so here i am ..i am seriously thinking of alt. conversion now ...jake 2012 way... he has a bike build im closely going to be like it seems ...probably came about the same way ... he went single then stator went bad ..and then he did altinator conversion where altinator is under the shelter ...seems very good thing for hooch ..for several reasons ....timing belt covers already short at crank pulley...
i really never want this to happen to me again... on road would be a disaster...
i dont really use extra power but ..no reason to not have it in a mod ....
personally i always went stator before ... but ican see theres no way the stator can be in the same level of reliability with the motor out deal and low power of and aged parts that are not made anymore ...to a moderin easy to maintane charging system .... lets hear some thoughts on these choices
opcorn:
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Thoughts?
An external isn't necessarily more reliable, I have had to replace the internal regulator once, and bearings once. The appeal is no motor out to repair it.
An external isn't necessarily more reliable, I have had to replace the internal regulator once, and bearings once. The appeal is no motor out to repair it.
I've pulled my motor twice to change the stator. I don't think I will pull it a third time for the same reason.
I tend to agree. It seems I have read of too many replaced stators going south too early. It may not be the stator's fault, but changing them is a lot of work, especially if it's got lots of Tupperware. I liked Jake2012's mod too. Seemed to fit nicely. His pulley mod was shade tree classic.
Where is the Jake 2012 mod?
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OP
https://www.ngwclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=41463
here you go brian....fantastic work ...im really considering this big time ...to me this is like stock carbs ...as eric says ..it probably not the stator but all around it ...as i study the info it seems the splice wire on stator to reg and rect and the sense wire for reg... and all connections involved ..probably take out more batteries and stators on oldwings than any other thing ...batteries always being over charge and boiling off to dead land like i think mine did maybe but that a guess ....truth is i left the key on twice in a row was the biggest problem ....sheesh ... and stators working over capasity even with no power demand as in lights and all ... a very long lupe of things...so like the carbs ive had enough maybe of the stock parts and all the discounts today brings to the table .....
anyway good read brian .. i cant see pics anymore after i let go ngw as forum i would partisipate in
here you go brian....fantastic work ...im really considering this big time ...to me this is like stock carbs ...as eric says ..it probably not the stator but all around it ...as i study the info it seems the splice wire on stator to reg and rect and the sense wire for reg... and all connections involved ..probably take out more batteries and stators on oldwings than any other thing ...batteries always being over charge and boiling off to dead land like i think mine did maybe but that a guess ....truth is i left the key on twice in a row was the biggest problem ....sheesh ... and stators working over capasity even with no power demand as in lights and all ... a very long lupe of things...so like the carbs ive had enough maybe of the stock parts and all the discounts today brings to the table .....
anyway good read brian .. i cant see pics anymore after i let go ngw as forum i would partisipate in
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I would use a rewound stator and a Mofset regulator and apart from the magnets in the rotor ( getting weaker) you would have a first class charging circuit. Remember the Buell I fixed, still going well.
viewtopic.php?p=138432#p138432
viewtopic.php?p=138432#p138432
slabghost
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Stator has no problem with bearings or belts going bad.
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And the rotor doesn't mind reving :yes:[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155888#p155888:1yf6ytmq said:
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well it seems opinions are wide apart here ... kind of like me ...hooch very high revving bike ..and dose it quickly ...really dosnt need the extra belt and this is a discount to some degree on alt conversion ....it dose seem tony buell project is doing fine with the mofset reg added and stator and eliminates most of the drawbacks to the stock reg rec set up....
i will be looking at stators today......about this diped in varnish deal sounds easy ... is it something one can do at home to a stator .....
on the conversion ... there is room concerns that dont appeal to me to much .....but there is also a wider vision that can be looked at in this bikes case .....im in a bit of disagreement on rpm of car altinator theory ...to me i dont want it it spining 2 to 1 ..that seems to much on a bike ...if it dont do well at idle and lags a little thats what the battery is for ... me i dont do a lot of traffic riding so its not a huge issue i have the best charge at idle .....i think as long as rpm is held to where car alt is made for is spot id shoot for in the conversion ....
the stator let say stator is good in the motor .....here something im going to throw out for opinions ....if i do car alt and also have the stator good in motor ... the stator operates at full output always ...and theres no way to get rid of it as starter is all tied to it ... why not have it put out like it dose ...and on my bike use all its power full time to maybe heat the single setup ?...could the three phase ac output be turn directly into heat for the vw type 4 plenum for the weber carb ? ...the stator spins anyway so this might be a good option for oldwing carb heating maybe ... also if not many failing parts involed maybe this would be like trouble free ? ....comments please ..... :fishin:opcorn:
i will be looking at stators today......about this diped in varnish deal sounds easy ... is it something one can do at home to a stator .....
on the conversion ... there is room concerns that dont appeal to me to much .....but there is also a wider vision that can be looked at in this bikes case .....im in a bit of disagreement on rpm of car altinator theory ...to me i dont want it it spining 2 to 1 ..that seems to much on a bike ...if it dont do well at idle and lags a little thats what the battery is for ... me i dont do a lot of traffic riding so its not a huge issue i have the best charge at idle .....i think as long as rpm is held to where car alt is made for is spot id shoot for in the conversion ....
the stator let say stator is good in the motor .....here something im going to throw out for opinions ....if i do car alt and also have the stator good in motor ... the stator operates at full output always ...and theres no way to get rid of it as starter is all tied to it ... why not have it put out like it dose ...and on my bike use all its power full time to maybe heat the single setup ?...could the three phase ac output be turn directly into heat for the vw type 4 plenum for the weber carb ? ...the stator spins anyway so this might be a good option for oldwing carb heating maybe ... also if not many failing parts involed maybe this would be like trouble free ? ....comments please ..... :fishin:
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Are you sure that your replacement stator has failed Joe?
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yes tony i am ... the hi out put test clearly showed the short for real .... i coul see the spark start then die instantly on the one leg of stator .... after that ... all three wires failed to ground and also 2.1 volt when suppose to be 4 to 5 while running ... the fluke meter i got now is very nice and i feel confident in its reading ....im assuming there was only one spot on stator that was problem the rotation of stator kept this from shorting continuous .....the high load test im sure shorted the rest of the way ....is what im thinking tony ....or i just did test so wrong i took sator out ... dont think that happen but could have i guess ....
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The stator is fixed Joe so rotation is not an issue but vibration is. The high current test is the one that I use to find weaknesses in the windings that may not be apparent when using the ohm meter to read actual phase windings. Any circuit to ground is definitly a failed stator (just make sure that it is the stator not the fly leads from the stator windings). In your case Joe I would be chasing a high quality rewound/new stator as per Ricks etc. in my case I will be using my rewinder if the need arises for a new stator as I have always been please with the quality of his work.
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I don't recall ever seeing a video what voltage readings at the stator leads should be so I made one:
[video]https://youtu.be/OUfQePLCVUc[/video]
[video]https://youtu.be/OUfQePLCVUc[/video]
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that confirms mine is fried LOL :Awe: :doh: :thank_you:
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Nice video Dan :good:
When doing the output test you should also do the third phase to be sure as you will have reduced charging output with one faulty phase. The advantage of this running test as you are seeing the quality of the magnetic field of the rotor as well as complete windings in the stator. The stator can still be tested staticlally as per ohm readings and high current phase tests.
When doing the output test you should also do the third phase to be sure as you will have reduced charging output with one faulty phase. The advantage of this running test as you are seeing the quality of the magnetic field of the rotor as well as complete windings in the stator. The stator can still be tested staticlally as per ohm readings and high current phase tests.
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All 3 phases were tested in the video.[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=155947#p155947:2uay0ibz said:
