Spray paint blistering WHY

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Update. Side cover redo because of blistering. I sanded the complete cover and primered again. Lightly dry sand and let sit for 2 days. The color coat was applied by several very light coats and I do mean 7 or 8 coats until the color covered well and flashed till dry to the touch between each coat. Let sit for 10 minutes then hit with first very light coat of clear. Flash the clear between coats. I did 4 coats of clear and the last was the heaviest and I flashed that too. No more crinkle I'm relieved to say.

From what I read, Rustoleum takes a long time to cure and if you try to go over a previously painted area that hasn't had time to set up, the new layer will adversely affect the lower coats and raise spots giving you the crinkled look. I touched on this here.. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=9218&start=30

Hope this helps.

Bill
 
Probably it was dirty, scrub extra carefully in the little nooks and crannies and deagrease it somehow. Also running steel wool over it all will leave some nice scratches for the pain to stick to better. right now I would start over with sanding the bad paint layer off. metal wire brushes usually do the trick in corners.
 
Bill I got the false tank doors done today. I don't understand the blistering thing. Because today i got false tank out shed, took and washed whole tank in bathtub and wet snaded in the tub. Removed the 2 doors, after drying about 4 hrs. took them outside gave them 3 coats of primer, waited 30 minutes and gave it 4 coats of top coat without any trouble. Going to do tank tomorrow in its not raining.
 
Good to hear you got the doors done. Did mine last week and got the tank 3/4 sanded. I'll try to finish it tomorrow like you said "if it doesn't rain".
Guess we just keep on painting and any problems come up, fix 'em.

Bill
 
I don't know if this helps. I've been painting my project with Krylon Fusion. Don't laff, it's giving me what I want which is semi-flat and a slight texture. All chrome will be painted too, but I digress. Here's a tip if you ever want to use Fusion on anything plastic: DO NOT PRIME. It contains solvent to attack and attach to plastic. That solvent will sometimes eat the primer and make it bubble and crinkle! I don't know if that's happening to you in this case but painting plastic is very different from painting metal or fiberglass. Try it with very light or no primer, directly on the sanded plastic and see what happens. The problem could be in the primer or how it reacts to the paint. Maybe the primer was just a bit too thick in that spot and the paint dissolved it.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142990#p142990:1hr4egm0 said:
chuck c » Tue Mar 10, 2015 6:34 pm[/url]":1hr4egm0]
I don't know if this helps. I've been painting my project with Krylon Fusion. Don't laff, it's giving me what I want which is semi-flat and a slight texture. All chrome will be painted too, but I digress. Here's a tip if you ever want to use Fusion on anything plastic: DO NOT PRIME. It contains solvent to attack and attach to plastic. That solvent will sometimes eat the primer and make it bubble and crinkle! I don't know if that's happening to you in this case but painting plastic is very different from painting metal or fiberglass. Try it with very light or no primer, directly on the sanded plastic and see what happens. The problem could be in the primer or how it reacts to the paint. Maybe the primer was just a bit too thick in that spot and the paint dissolved it.

They have primers/paints designed for plastic in rattle cans.
 
i don't remember what grade of sandpaper I used but I orginally sanded, then water sanded. 2 coats of primer, wet sand, primer, wet sand, paint, wet sand, clean and add 2 coats of black paint and waxed when dry and it looks as good as brand new for eight year.
 
here is my 2 cents on painting. Sometimes your Tack rags self contaminate. 2 when wiping down surfaces with rags that have been washed with laundry soap can cause blisters. Also like it was said that looks to me as contaminate it. When you are wet sanding the surface (new paper) I always use a spray bottle filled with Dawn soap and hot water. Be careful with prepsol and primer. For some reason there is a natural reaction when using it It causes the primer to open its pours (so to speak) and allow oil and other contaminants to get into it. Never use Tack rage that are in a package. I dont recommend them @ All. Prepsol can move dirt from one place to another. Dawn soap and water. I'ed make sure your tub is clean and fill it up with hot water and dawn soap wash it with wet sand paper. Rinse it with spray bottle filled with hot water and dawn soap wet sand it with same dawn soap bottle rinse it let it air dry. The hotter the water the better opens pours and cleans them. Plastics are tricky I did all mine this way no issues. But (i know I keep saying it) dawn soap and hot water only.. :laptop: :music: :salute: I almost forgot when washing it clean use a NEW spunge and allow the soap to dissapate out while you rinsing it with hot water this will remove the access paint sanded and also remove the soap.. Hot water all the way to the end..
 
One other thing. I would go light between coats in this area. More drying time this allows for the paint to close up. The paint underneath will sometimes react when doing to tone if they are not getting along while laying heavy (so to speak) Build up slow. Hope this helps. Now that you have whatever is trapped underneath you might need to take it back down to the original surface to fix this.. two colors reaction with the contamint.. MY 2 cents. Hope this helps..
 
[url=https://www.classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=143009#p143009:1pznmsou said:
Mad Dog Tannen » Wed Mar 11, 2015 2:51 am[/url]":1pznmsou]
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=142990#p142990:1pznmsou said:
chuck c » Tue Mar 10, 2015 6:34 pm[/url]":1pznmsou]
I don't know if this helps. I've been painting my project with Krylon Fusion. Don't laff, it's giving me what I want which is semi-flat and a slight texture. All chrome will be painted too, but I digress. Here's a tip if you ever want to use Fusion on anything plastic: DO NOT PRIME. It contains solvent to attack and attach to plastic. That solvent will sometimes eat the primer and make it bubble and crinkle! I don't know if that's happening to you in this case but painting plastic is very different from painting metal or fiberglass. Try it with very light or no primer, directly on the sanded plastic and see what happens. The problem could be in the primer or how it reacts to the paint. Maybe the primer was just a bit too thick in that spot and the paint dissolved it.

They have primers/paints designed for plastic in rattle cans.
+1 on the plastic prep..
 
Well same thing again yesterday with the front fairing. It as been sitting 2 days not touched. Dry sanded the blister area's down to the org. paint, then light dry sand whole fairing. Spray lite coat of primer, waited 15 minutes in between coats and applied 3 total coats. Looked great. NO BLISTERING I GOT IT... Waited 1 hour and applied a real lite top coat, looked good, applied second lite coat looked good, 5 minutes later BLISTERING in area's where it as not blister before. Well took fairing in shed and that's it on it for awhile.
I don't understand it.. BECAUSE
I took fuel tank shield dry sanded,2 coats of primer waited 1 hour and gave it 3 coats of top coat same paint cans, waited 1 hour and gave it 4 clear coats. turn out good.
Did same with trunk bottom and it turn out good. Just for the heck of it grab a saddlebag, wiped it down sparay primer and 30 minutes later 2 coats of top coat without any blistering.
MAYBE fairing done want to be painted, But I'M going to get it some day.
 
Allen. Try flashing each coat before spraying the next. I've read some people use a hair dryer. I think a hair dryer pushes too much air. There's more chance of blowing dust onto paint. I use a small space heater that I move back and forth to set the paint between coats.

Hang in there buddy. The bikes gonna look great when it's done.

Bill
 
Your correct flash off time must be longer they do make a primer sealer too. Or the batch of color you have is bad. But that your getting a reaction in a different area. The only other thing you can do if you can is to sprat it with a gun. this way you can put an attive in the paint to control it. The base and top coat are not getting along there is a cemical reaction (sorry I don't spell well). Is the crinckle in a flat area now ? are you using rubber gloves all the while your painting ? Like it was said before they do make a plastic primer prep. But this is happening while your laying down top and final. Go lighter and build slower more drying time.
 
Just a note. Lacquer wrinkles bad if applied over enamels. Enamel can be applied over lacquer primer. If Primer is enamel and topcoat is lacquer it will most likely wrinkle.
 
[url=https://classicgoldwings.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=143193#p143193:3tg2chgc said:
slabghost » Fri Mar 13, 2015 12:19 pm[/url]":3tg2chgc]
Just a note. Lacquer wrinkles bad if applied over enamels. Enamel can be applied over lacquer primer. If Primer is enamel and topcoat is lacquer it will most likely wrinkle.
yup
 
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