Using $12.99 Alternator/Battery Tester

[philc]

I have one of those inexpensive Alternator/Battery testers.
The tester shows both my battery and alternator in good condition.
Its one those units with the 6 lights that if all lit up (with engine idling at 2K), the charging system is deemed good.
Does anyone have experience with these testers, "General" brand?
And if so can I rely on it to give me an accurate reading?
Just re installed the battery after spending the night on the battery tender.
Thanks
Phil

 

[dan filipi]

Most of those type testers just indicate the voltage at the point it's connected to, battery or whatever.
They don't "test" anything but by indicating voltage they are in a sense telling you the charging system is ok simply because the voltage IS where it should be.

 

[AApple]

The lights should show (general)amount of voltage. The more lights that light up, the more voltage there is. So..with say, 9 volts, maybe only 3-4 of the lights come on. 12 volts, all of the lights are on. Kinda like a test light....it will light up with 2 volts, so seeing the light doesn't mean you have a full 12 volts. I guess as long as you have at least 5 lights on, it would still start. But anything less than all 6 lights on with it running would seem to indicate a no charge.
If you're really looking to see actual voltage, you'll need a multimeter. :good:

 

[philc]

Yes the tester does have a corresponding voltage next to each light.
I believe it reads 14 volts at the highest reading, all 6 lights on.
All I wanted to do was feel fairly secure in knowing that the stator, rectifier and alternator are in good working order.
Having verified that the charging system is good I can move on to the compression test.
Does anyone have experience with aftermarket coils? Mine have almost 60k on them and I am wondering if they would help produce a healthier spark.
Thaks for your help

 

[joedrum]

you said a nouthful there the ignition systen is probably weak ...but changing coils will probably not bring it back ti new like or better ...this involves the wiring mostly before and after the coils ...that hurts the ignition and is responsible for nost weak spark ...this is usealy what takes out the coils is the wiring and switches honda used that has degraded till they are capable of sending full voltage to coils ...on the otherside of the coils is old wires and resistors in plug ends that get so bad they wont deliver spark to plugs either especialy weak spark....this causes all kinds of heat build up in coils and a lot crack from it ....this forum is trying like now to find alternitives to this poor setup on ignition haonda used and its 30 plus yrs ...to me all oldwings ignitions sould be rebuilt like a bad motor ....personaly i beleave the ignition need relays installed to bypass the many honda switches and go strait to the coils with fresh strong 12 volt from starter solenoid and wired to where the honda switches still all work but dont carry the load the coils need ...just what the relay needs to engage the ignition ....theres lots of good reading here on 1100 ignition 1000 too

 

[dan filipi]

Yes the tester does have a corresponding voltage next to each light.
I believe it reads 14 volts at the highest reading, all 6 lights on.
All I wanted to do was feel fairly secure in knowing that the stator, rectifier and alternator are in good working order.
Having verified that the charging system is good I can move on to the compression test.
Does anyone have experience with aftermarket coils? Mine have almost 60k on them and I am wondering if they would help produce a healthier spark.
Thaks for your help

Please start a nee topic with the coil question.