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Please note that the carbs are not leaking and bike runs better every time I take it out. Now idles at 1k. Only about 100 miles since getting it going again.

Yep, she's a nice sled and a fun ride. (Wish I could keep it myself, would be a nice change from the naked one. :ok: )

My neighbor asked for a little help with selling his '83 Aspencade so I went over to his place today and took a look at it. He bought a '95 Aspencade just over a year ago and this one has been parked since then. It was stored with Stabil in the gas and the tank looks pretty good inside. He...

When you put the new timing belts on you'll have a chance to check the water pump and flush out the cooling system.

Good to hear. How's it running?

It's good that you consider elapsed time and miles because some guys ride more, some less. I try to keep to the oil industry's schedule on the bike, 3k miles or 6 months. (But the car is a different story. It does 120 mile round-trip commutes, so for that one, every 5k miles.) I agree with...

You can get the oil filters at almost any auto parts store or order them on the web. Oil Filter for GL1000 & GL1100 Honda Part #15410-426-010, 15410-422-004 FRAM #CH6009 (comes with both o-rings, $4-$5 locally) Napa #PS4940 Purolator #ML16809 WIX #24940 (O'Reilly's) As...

Thanks, I do too. It's white gold and was handmade by a hippie friend in 1978. Still fits, still round. :cool:

Here is the link to the original thread submitted by Roady- Front Engine Renewal Project This project plan is an attempt to cover all those things that should be done when you dive into the timing belt replacement on a new-2-U bike. In this project, you will: Drain Oil and Coolant Remove...

New gas lines? Flush the fuel pump? You might want to put in two filters.

Either a different year or someone "retrofit" them. There is a procedure online somewhere about tapping then out. I personally don't go for it but some swear by it. You're a lucky dog.

Bravo and well done. You're now officially a motorsickle meckanic.

britman, that's when #4 is at TDC and both valves are closed.

So, how does a "shadetree" mechanic verify proper flow? And please note that I said "aftermarket" jets are questionable. Meaning that OEM jets and needles that were made for that specific model of carb are acceptable replacements. Just be prepared to pony up some serious cash to acquire them...

I would never replace jets during a rebuild and don't see how you can call them wear items. They are metering fuel, not rubbing against other metal parts. Aftermarket jets are questionable at best and shouldn't replace original ones unless you just want to buy new problems. I say clean 'em real...

Yeah, the Randakk kit for the 1100 is about $200. Considering what you get, it's a bargain. The four air cutoff valves are $25 a piece and the bowl gaskets run about $10 each. It adds up quick when you try to put it together yourself. You can get a decent set of mercury sticks for around $100...

Those carbs have nearly 30 years on them. Probably time for a complete Randakk'in.

What have you tried? There is an idle adjustment screw at the back of the carbs. You get to it from the right side. Have you adjusted that? Any effect? Or possibly your linkage is binding somewhere. Give us a bit more info.