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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
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GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
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Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
C5, PowerArc, and the mystery of Timing
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<blockquote data-quote="AApple" data-source="post: 96091" data-attributes="member: 56"><p>Anything that can change the relationship between the crank and ignition timing will certainly have an effect on the overall operation, and efficiency of the engine. Don't matter if it's belts, chains, or gear drive. If the ignition signal is based on anything other than crankshaft position...it's not going to be 100% accurate. </p><p>On the 1000 engines, the ignition runs from the cam...which runs off a belt from the crank. The cogged gear on the crank, and the cam pulleys automatically add in a margin of error. With belt drive cams, the belt(s) WILL stretch under acceleration, and that will change the relationship of the crank/ignition. May not be much, but it does change, nonetheless. </p><p>Chain drives are a little more accurate, but they too stretch over time, and will "flop", which changes the timing.</p><p>Gear drives are prolly the most accurate overall over the long haul(age-wise), but then you have the clearances needed between the gears(backlash) adding inaccuracy.</p><p>The ONLY "perfect" way to control ignition timing is directly from the crankshaft....which is what 99% of the cars out there now have, as well as most(if not all) non-boxer bike engines. Trigger the igntion right from the crank, and it will never change, mechanically....unless you somehow manage to twist the crank out of whack.... :shock: :mrgreen:</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="AApple, post: 96091, member: 56"] Anything that can change the relationship between the crank and ignition timing will certainly have an effect on the overall operation, and efficiency of the engine. Don't matter if it's belts, chains, or gear drive. If the ignition signal is based on anything other than crankshaft position...it's not going to be 100% accurate. On the 1000 engines, the ignition runs from the cam...which runs off a belt from the crank. The cogged gear on the crank, and the cam pulleys automatically add in a margin of error. With belt drive cams, the belt(s) WILL stretch under acceleration, and that will change the relationship of the crank/ignition. May not be much, but it does change, nonetheless. Chain drives are a little more accurate, but they too stretch over time, and will "flop", which changes the timing. Gear drives are prolly the most accurate overall over the long haul(age-wise), but then you have the clearances needed between the gears(backlash) adding inaccuracy. The ONLY "perfect" way to control ignition timing is directly from the crankshaft....which is what 99% of the cars out there now have, as well as most(if not all) non-boxer bike engines. Trigger the igntion right from the crank, and it will never change, mechanically....unless you somehow manage to twist the crank out of whack.... :shock: :mrgreen: [/QUOTE]
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Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
C5, PowerArc, and the mystery of Timing
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