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Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
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Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
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1975 GL1000
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1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
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carb rebuild
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<blockquote data-quote="bronko37" data-source="post: 149567" data-attributes="member: 3617"><p>If you are going to do a true rebuild, which I always recommend, you should remove the plugs. Take a small drill, maybe an 1/8" or so and drill just through the plugs. Then take a screw, like a drywall screw or self tapping sheet metal screw and screw it in until it bites into the plug. Grab the screw with a set of vise grips and wiggle the plug out. They come out pretty easy. </p><p></p><p>Before you remove the pilot screws, screw each one in until it lightly seats and record the number of turns for each screw. Then after your rebuild you can simply re set the screws to the factory setting. </p><p></p><p>IMO if you are going to take the time to remove and disassemble the carb rack, why would you not replace all the rubber parts as well so you are absolutely sure you are fixing the problem. It's not worth the doubt that you will always have from cutting corners. Do it once, do it right. </p><p></p><p>We should probably continue this conversation in the tech forum. </p><p></p><p>Oh yea, Welcome to Classics!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="bronko37, post: 149567, member: 3617"] If you are going to do a true rebuild, which I always recommend, you should remove the plugs. Take a small drill, maybe an 1/8" or so and drill just through the plugs. Then take a screw, like a drywall screw or self tapping sheet metal screw and screw it in until it bites into the plug. Grab the screw with a set of vise grips and wiggle the plug out. They come out pretty easy. Before you remove the pilot screws, screw each one in until it lightly seats and record the number of turns for each screw. Then after your rebuild you can simply re set the screws to the factory setting. IMO if you are going to take the time to remove and disassemble the carb rack, why would you not replace all the rubber parts as well so you are absolutely sure you are fixing the problem. It's not worth the doubt that you will always have from cutting corners. Do it once, do it right. We should probably continue this conversation in the tech forum. Oh yea, Welcome to Classics! [/QUOTE]
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