Forums
New posts
Search forums
What's new
New posts
New media
New media comments
Latest activity
Gallery Index & Tech Ref
Goldwing Trivia
Goldwing- The First 20 Years
From Japan to USA
Goldwing Magazine Articles
Two Wheel Magazine 1975- Honda's GL1000, The Future
Cycle Illustrated, Nov. 1975- 2 Big Ones From Honda
1977 Model GL1000 Setup Instructions
Owners Manuals
GL1000
1975 GL1000
1978 GL1000
GL1100
1980 GL1100 Standard
1981 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Aspencade
1982 GL1100 Interstate
1982 GL1100 Standard
1983 GL1100 Aspencade
1983 GL1100 Interstate
GL1200
1984 GL1200 Standard
1986 GL1200 Interstate
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
GL1500
1987 GL1200 Aspencade
Service Bulletins and Recalls- All Models
GL1000
GL1000- Important GL1000 Service Reminder (1 Page) 6-13-1975
SL #108 Tire and Wheel Rim Matching Information 6-20-75 (7 pages)
Service Tools Newsletter 7-31-75 (2 pages)
SB 1000 #3 Pressurised Cooling System Tester 10-10-75 (3 pages)
SB 1000 #1 Cylinder Head Core Plug Leakage- Revised 7-9-76 (3 pages)
SL #117 Exhaust Pipe and Muffler Paint Damage 9-30-76 (1 page)
SL #118 Instrument Troubleshooting 10-27-76 (5 pages)
PB 1000-2 Changes to Clutch Components 11-3-76 (1 page)
PB 1000-3 Changes to Right Front Engine Cover 1-5-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #11 Final Drive Gear Case Cover Change 10-15-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #12 New Main Bearing Caps 11-23-77 (1 page)
SB 1000 #13 Recall to Replace Rear Brake Pads 3-21-78 (5 pages)
SB 1000 #14 Cylinder Head Bolt Torque Change 11-8-78 (1 page)
GL1200
Special Consumer Report: 1984 and 1985 GW Rear Hub
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Log in
Register
What's new
Search
Search
Search titles only
By:
New posts
Search forums
Menu
Log in
Register
Install the app
Install
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
GL1100 (Standard) - Saving watts through LEDs (Chart)
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Reply to thread
Help Support Classic Goldwings:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="DaveKamp" data-source="post: 213425" data-attributes="member: 5122"><p></p></blockquote><p>So hypothetically speaking, since it is always producing power, if the stator wasn't connected to a shunt (such as a switching voltage regulator being used), would the amount of heat in the stator increase? After all, the power must go somewhere.[/quote]</p><p></p><p>If the stator isn't connected to a shunt, or a load, or anything, the current flowing would stop, and there would be no heat... and there'd be no substantial physical load on the engine... BUT... the stator winding voltage would go straight to the moon.</p><p></p><p>The reason is simple- when a magnetic field change occurs around a coil of wire, a voltage is induced. If it has nowhere to go, the voltage goes very high. If it has somewhere to go, then current flows, and voltage says down. This is the same reason that spark plug coil secondary voltage (prior to breakover) rises when you partially lift one of the plug wires... you've made resistance higher, but the coil field is still collapsing.</p><p></p><p>At any given speed, the higher the current flowing out of a stator, the lower the voltage will be. The limit of current limit is determined by the impedance of the windings... and below the cutoff frequency of the inductance, most of the impedance is simple resistance.</p><p></p><p>Let's say the coil has a 10 ohm winding RESISTANCE, and at whatever speed you're running the engine, it's developing 14v downstream of the rectifier... regardless of the presence of a regulator, you'll have 14v/10 ohm = 1.4 amperes of current flow.</p><p></p><p>If you doubled the turns of the winding, using the same wire size, you'd see 28v out... but the resistance would now be 20 ohms. Your output would be limited to 28v/20ohms or... 1.4 amperes.</p><p></p><p>Now, the output POWER would be twice as high, because 28v at 1.4A is twice as much as 14v at 1.4A.</p><p>[/QUOTE]</p>
[QUOTE="DaveKamp, post: 213425, member: 5122"] [/quote]So hypothetically speaking, since it is always producing power, if the stator wasn't connected to a shunt (such as a switching voltage regulator being used), would the amount of heat in the stator increase? After all, the power must go somewhere.[/quote] If the stator isn't connected to a shunt, or a load, or anything, the current flowing would stop, and there would be no heat... and there'd be no substantial physical load on the engine... BUT... the stator winding voltage would go straight to the moon. The reason is simple- when a magnetic field change occurs around a coil of wire, a voltage is induced. If it has nowhere to go, the voltage goes very high. If it has somewhere to go, then current flows, and voltage says down. This is the same reason that spark plug coil secondary voltage (prior to breakover) rises when you partially lift one of the plug wires... you've made resistance higher, but the coil field is still collapsing. At any given speed, the higher the current flowing out of a stator, the lower the voltage will be. The limit of current limit is determined by the impedance of the windings... and below the cutoff frequency of the inductance, most of the impedance is simple resistance. Let's say the coil has a 10 ohm winding RESISTANCE, and at whatever speed you're running the engine, it's developing 14v downstream of the rectifier... regardless of the presence of a regulator, you'll have 14v/10 ohm = 1.4 amperes of current flow. If you doubled the turns of the winding, using the same wire size, you'd see 28v out... but the resistance would now be 20 ohms. Your output would be limited to 28v/20ohms or... 1.4 amperes. Now, the output POWER would be twice as high, because 28v at 1.4A is twice as much as 14v at 1.4A. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Classic Goldwing Technical Forums
Lighting & Electrical
GL1100 (Standard) - Saving watts through LEDs (Chart)
Top